dmshozer1
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Posts posted by dmshozer1
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On 1/5/2023 at 10:42 AM, brian45acp said:
We are describing the same thing differently. Mine rolls but feels choppy like you describe as well.
Corey did reply and said this is fine and has no effect on how it functions but if there was ever an issue he would take care of it.
Now that you have had the Scheel for awhile,
What do you think of it compared to your JP set up?
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13 hours ago, Blackstone45 said:
Dustin @ JP told me not to shoot plated bullets through a comp because the small pieces of plating will shred the comp
Now that is funny!!!!!!!!
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13 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
As someone noted in another post, UniqueTek sells the Photo Escape powder funnels which BTW, are produced to the exact specifications as the OEM MBF funnels. Your choice on whom to purchase from; but they are identical product. Further, desired polish/finish of either can be accomplished by the end user.
Also note, there are standard (9mm) funnels for .356"/.357" bullets AND .357"/.358" funnels for using oversized bullets!
https://photoescapeinc.com/products/powder-funnel.html
https://photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html
Both products are also available from UniqueTek!
Thanks,
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3 minutes ago, xjwalt666 said:
I've heard the Mighty Armory funnels are amazing. They are more consistent and the brass doesn't stick to the funnel. Might be worth a look too.
Thanks,
I will check them out.
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17 hours ago, ysrracer said:
Is that one of the oversized funnels?
I tried one, but had to toss it. No case tension.
It is,
I have read good and bad things about them.
Thought I would give it a try.
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23 hours ago, open17 said:
Thanks
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Anyone know how to order a Photoscrape funnel?
I cannot find the website.
I know Uniteck makes one but it is not polished properly.
Thanks.
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I want to try a Photo scrape powder funnel but cannot find their website.
Anyone know how to bring it up?
I know that Uniteck makes one but it is not polished properly.
Thanks
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3 hours ago, JM_ said:
To be fair it does kick ass out of the box compared to nearly all PCC's out of the box. Can you spend countless hours and money tuning a regular blow back gun to run similar to a JP-5? Maybe. With the JP-5 all you need to do it change locking lugs dependent on ammo and you've got an incredibly flat and soft shooting gun. The cost of the gun is because JP has spent a ton of money in R&D to make a completely unique platform that is backed by a well known company. They're known for their insane quality and reliability, and the price does show that.
Agree that JP makes good stuff,
But a bare 4,000 rifle is ridicules when you can buy a store bought very reliable and competitive
PCC for $2,500. I think the $2,500 price is also ridicules.
As simple as they are I realize that many do not have the knowledge to build one.
But if you can build one the knowledge how to do it is pretty standard and available.
A very basic "10 barrel or 5" shrouded one, Orange 308 buffer spring, Blitz buffer,
A good cheek weld stock, Hyper Fire or CMC trigger, handguard and pistol grip of choice.
Any 9mm upper and lower, Red dot of choice, good Glock mags, factory or good reloads to give
about 125 to 135 Power factor. $1,500 to $1,800 if you invest in a quality red dot.
Now you have a very reliable PCC that if you do your part will double tap A's all day long.
Spend the extra money on primers if you can find them.
Just my opinion.
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2 minutes ago, ysrracer said:
Agreed, there are tons of variables.
Short of having a bunch of identical rifles (with different recoil systems) locked into some kind of measuring device, it's all just speculation.
And even then everybody handles recoil differently, and at some point you're chasing unicorn farts.
Agreed!
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On 12/17/2022 at 12:48 PM, ysrracer said:
Keep in mind guys that barrel length, bullet weight, powder and powder charge all affect how the gun recoils and feels.
Don't forget that how you hold the gun is very important.
Sometimes more so than even with the best set up!
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27 minutes ago, Stefan77 said:
I am still testing out various types of ammo when I can. I posted this in the JP5 thread. I still have to test my Eley sample pack that arrived this week.
Addition 80* Cam worked well with my 150grn Syntechs but I honestly like the feel of the 60* with 115's better.
60*:
115grn Blazer Brass (BB) cycled and bolt would hold open (I had a couple of times that it didn't hold the bolt open).
Addition 115 grn Federal I only tried t for a few rounds and it didn't hold the bolt open but it could be a magazine or have been a little dirty?
130grn Syntech, bolt cycled but would not hold open.
150grn syntech, bolt would not cycle
70*:
130grn Syntech I noticed a little more recoil, bolt cycled and held open
150grn Syntech, bolt cycled and it held open but I can't remember if it was consistent.
As far as what felt good to me?
The 115grn BB felt really nice. Cycled fast and felt light (what I mean by light is that it wasn't a heavy'sh push)
The 130grn Syntech was pretty good, it shot well. I was happy with it but I don't like the bolt not holding open.
150grn Syntech felt a little sluggish when shooting it.
These are just my "feels" so not a really objective thing.
I just ordered the Eley Trial pack and will test that out. I ordered a case of Federal 115grn FMJ to try which shoot at 1180FPS (from a pistol) vs the BB 115grn which shoots at 1145fps (from a pistol). The 130grn Syntechs are listed at 1140 FPS from a PCC with a 16" barrel so I suspect a slower velocity from the JP5 being it is not a true 16" barrel with a pinned and welded muzzle break.
Thoughts?
I'll continue to post in the JP5 thread and update there as I go.
What were you shooting before you bought this $4,000, not including an optic, wait for two years gun that was advertised to
kick ass right out of the box.
Sorry guy. I cannot see $4,000 when you can build a very reliable PCC for $1,500 set up the way you want it.
I can double tap into an A zone up to 25 yd. under match conditions. I never win because I do not move well.
Movement, stage planing, a reliable gun and set up is what wins matches.
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27 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:
The scheel handles hotter ammo just fine.. (I run 138-140PF 115’s myself), it’s just not well suited to jump from one type of ammo to another without swapping roller springs.
Even swapping from 115’s to 124’s of similar PF can feel very different behind the optic. Different chamber pressures… and that’s what the roller delay focuses on… keeps the gun locked up based on a specific chamber pressure.
The Scheel system does tend to keep the upper/lower much cleaner because of the lock up. Whereas a direct blowback system lets more powder residue and carbon back into the receiver.
Same deal with the JP5,
Depending on what ammo you are using you have to change locking blocks for $100 a pop
to get the "feel" you want.
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Observations and questions,
Through the years I have used RCBS, Redding, Dillon and Lee dies.
They have all been good to me loading 9,40,45 and.223.
The problem has always been the fact that all brands of brass
are not the same length. Even the same head stamp brass will vary as much
as .015 from each other.
So what do you set up your crimp die to do? Go off the shortest brass or the longest.
If you set it up for the .015 and then crimp a piece that is .015 shorter, you might have a problem gauging your finished rds.
I have found that case gauges will show the rds. to be ok but checking them in the barrel you are using they might not plunk or spin.
I have also found that before sizing and after sizing that most, not all brass will grow as much as. 010. Then after flaring will
measure less that the stretched rd.
I measure a bunch of my current brass, pick the middle measurement to set the crimp die and then barrel check the gun I am loading for.
Depending on the gun barrel I can get away from most of the above problems.
I do have a PCC with a picky chamber that requires a barrel check for sure.
I think if for example you happen to pick the longest piece of brass you have by accident and set your die for that length, then
crimp your shortest piece, you might not have enough crimp.
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2 hours ago, Joe4d said:
not really any perfect solution,, even a perfect adjustment with one piece of brass could mean the next one is off due to length of brass.
trimming brass would work but thats tedious.
Some little things can add up and minimize the problem.
Undersize sizer, combined with almost zero flare, jacketed bullets, and almost no crimp. Basic tension will hold the bullet especially with 147's.
other than that its a timing thing. Kinda a pain.Thanks.
You are correct about the length of the brass.
I have measured know once fired brass, same head stamp to be as much as .015 difference from each other.
I have measured brass before sizing to grow in length up to .010 after sizing.
You are also correct that it is a pain in the ass!!
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On 10/26/2022 at 11:01 PM, Joe4d said:
also are you seating in one step and crimping in the next ? Combination seat crimp dies can be really finicky to adjust. You can start the crimp before the bullet is seated, causing just enough bulge that your rounds occasionally fail plunk test,, leading you to believe its OAL,, when it isnt.
On a Dillon 550, I adjust my seat die to seat and just barely remove the bell so it goes into the last station crimp die easily. I then compare OAL pre and post crimp to make sure nothing movedI seat 9mm rds. with a Lee 2in1 die and have the problem you describe.
Any way to fix the problem?
With my loading set up I have to crimp and seat in one station.
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4 hours ago, Orlandoech said:
Bolt hold open is virtually useless in every aspect, especially competition lol. Buy 40rd or greater mags.
Taylorfreelance and MBX mag extensions that get to 55-60rds.
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1 hour ago, Bdh821 said:
I like my spelling better
Your the Man!
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1 hour ago, Bdh821 said:
The top shooters will most likely always win with any PCC they use as skillz beats gear every timeAbsolutely right on the money except for the spelling of the word "skills"
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5 hours ago, Bdh821 said:
It's on my youtube.. but ill post here lol I need to put together my A8 loss
Thanks,
I like watching you kicking ass even though you shoot from the wrong side.
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On 9/9/2022 at 10:04 AM, Bdh821 said:
I've never had that happen. Call Sig and have them mail you a new one.
Are you going to post your video of the Area 7 match?
I look forward to them.
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10 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
There is no definition for cart in the rulebook I have found. As I understand it Cart is universal for wagon, 3gun specific type of cart, modified baby carriage, golf cart etc. I think of cart as in the term of how the firearm in conveyed. The term conveyance is used numerous times throughout 5.2 and 10.5, the rule book never defines conveyance or cart. You see wagons used at every match and as long as the wagon is up against the berm or the bagged PCC is within 2 yds of the berm there is no issue.
Make sure you are familiar with 10.5.19 which states only un-bagging of the PCC is allowed. No other weapon manipulations are allowed or a DQ will be issued. This includes messing with the optic, taking sight pictures, etc.
That is the way I read it,
Thanks
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13 hours ago, ChuckS said:
5.2.1.7 covers the cart and unbagging. No restrictions as to where the cart can be when it is resting
ETA: 5.2.1.6 deals with the un-cased carbine in a cart...
Just read 5.2.1.7.
I read it to say you have to be within 6 feet from the berm to take it out of the cart.
Is a cart according to the rule the same as a wagon?
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12 hours ago, ChuckS said:
5.2.1.7 covers the cart and unbagging. No restrictions as to where the cart can be when it is resting
ETA: 5.2.1.6 deals with the un-cased carbine in a cart...
Thanks
Scheel roller delayed buffer
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted