Mo Zee
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Posts posted by Mo Zee
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I have changed over from CMJ to Lead heads due to cost. I found that there is quite a bit of smoke from the wax and heard that crimping a bit more will reduce the amount of smoke. Has anyone played around with this and/or have any other suggestions?
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Mr Chitlin,
Ask for #22173, under warranty, as per Gary Kieft.
Foxbat,
How much brass are you putting in the bowl? Upside down cases usually indicates too much brass, preventing upside-down cases from falling out. Be sure there is not a big sttel washer under the gray plastic case feed plate.
RegBob,
large and Small plates are marked with either a big "L" or "S" molded into it.
Dillon,
Would it be possible to get the warranty replacement at the local dillon dealer in South Africa?
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MO Zee,
TH epowder you are using sounds like a bulky powder. Try using the large powder bar, see if that works better. Also, make sure you are flaring at least .010". Keep us posted.
Thanks for the reply. I will give the large powder a try. I am checked how much I am flaring by and its definitely +- 0.10"
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Need more info;
What caliber are you loading?
What powder?
How many grains?
Large or small bar?
If a straightwall case, how much are you flaring the case mouth?
Hey Dillon
What powder? - I doubt you know the powder we use here, but it is called S221 manufactured by somchem. It is a slow burning powder for .38 super
How many grains? - I use about 9.6grains on a 122gr copper head
Large or small bar? - Using the small bar
If a straightwall case, how much are you flaring the case mouth? - Hmm not sure how much I am flaring. will measure and get back to you on that.....
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I tried searching but couldnt find exactly what I was looking for and I was hoping for a few more ideas to be thrown around.
At the moment I am getting charges between 0.2 and 0.3 from what I am looking for. Out of 10 throws I might get about 4 or 5 heavy or light throws. Is there anyway to get a more consistent throw or am I being pedantic?
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cmore will rebody the sight I think its about $50
Does that include new glass and everything?
I have an old blue c-more with hazy glass and I realy don't care for the blue color.
They rebody it meaning they take out your guts and fit them into another/new body...
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On the 550
You can loosen the primer bar to align that, but that does not align the plate platform of the ram. To do that you need the alignment tool. You can have your primers go in fine, but still have other issues such as the powder die dragging one side or die alignment issues caused by the ram platform being adjusted improperly. The "tool" to which people are speaking is in the form of a pin. You place the powder die in station one and drop the pin in. With the shell plat off and the shell platform bolts loose you take the ram up and down until if will slip in and out of the shell platform plate hole without moving the pin. Then you snug the bolts up and make sure you still have proper alignment. If you do then tighten them puppies up and reinstall your shell plate and move your powder die back. You will, of course have to reset your decap/resize die. I do that by keeping a re sized case on hand and putting it in station one, running the ram to the top and then screw the die down until it just touches the shell plate. By adjusting it with the case in the die and plate, you have proper alignment of the die when snugging it down.
Call Dillon and they will send you the tool free. If not PM me and I'll send you mine to use.
JT
PS. If you have a case feeder than this can cause the issue you are having too. In some cases the case feed plunger will contact the shell case on the downward stroke and push it at an angle. This creates a slight gap and the case is no longer firmly into the shell plate. Basically what you can have is an over travel situation. I had the very same issue. The deal with mine was bend the cam back a little to limit how far the plunger would travel. I've also seen presses where the plunger did not travel far enough. In that case if the cam is stopping the travel you can bend it in slightly. If the plunger assembly itself is the issue, you can remove a bit of material in front where the bearing contacts it. Be careful going this route as the case feed body is not cheap!!
Thanks for all the info. Ieventually managed to come right. I played around with the indexer block and sort of came right...
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I did a search on how to align the priming unit and found most used a dillon alignment tool. Is there any way to do this without the tool?
I am in South Africa and I need to align this urgently, therefore calling Dillon is not an option...
Oh yeah - THe problem I am having is that primer punch is not aligning with the shell plate 100% of the time. In order for me to get the primer seated I need to play around with the shell plate until the primer pops in. Prior to stripping and cleanin the press it was working perfectly....
What press are you using ?
I've got a 550 but never heard of an alignment tool ?
Duh - Should have mentioned I am using a 650.
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I did a search on how to align the priming unit and found most used a dillon alignment tool. Is there any way to do this without the tool?
I am in South Africa and I need to align this urgently, therefore calling Dillon is not an option...
Oh yeah - THe problem I am having is that primer punch is not aligning with the shell plate 100% of the time. In order for me to get the primer seated I need to play around with the shell plate until the primer pops in. Prior to stripping and cleanin the press it was working perfectly....
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I stripped the machine completely, cleaned it and lubed the shaft with 5w-30 synthetic oil. Seems to be much better now except when the handle is at the primer insert position (all the way up) it doesnt move easily back to the start position. NOrmally, if I leave the handle at the top the handle would slip into position...
If that made sense can anyone help?
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Does the machine bind on the up or down stroke of the handle? If on the downstroke it is more likely in the primer feed, if on the upstroke is the shellplate bolt tightening. Once the shellplate is off it's easy to remove the primer feed and see if the handle effort decreases.
@ dillon - I removed the shellplate bolt and it is still binding. I need to go and purchase some hex keys as I do not have the size to remove the primer feed. Will provide feedback later today....
@ thegirl - THanks will keep an eye out for that.
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I was loading some ammo now to chrono for tomorrow and found that as I was loading the machine seem to becoming tighter and tigher!
I adjusted the grub screw and shell plate bolt but this did not solve the problem. I then removed the shell plate to ensure that the shell plate was not causing it to jam. It can only be the shell carrier or the priming unit. ANy help as to what to look out for? I also found trhat the pin that rotates the priming plate is not turning it. ANy ideas how to fix this....
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I played around with some springs today and felt that the 9pound spring brought the gun back to the target consistently. The gun felt very smooth to shoot.
Is running a 9 pound to soft for a a shorty open in super? I am running a 171 factor with a 122 gr head...
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Thanks for the info... I must say I like the way the new setup works. Its much smoother....
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I just purchased another 650 for my .38 super loading and noticed that the mechanism on the powder die is completely different to my old 650.
There are 2 metal plates that pivot the powder bar back into place. The problem is that the one metal plate seems to be hitting the edge of the powder funnel. It has a small angle to it and I am not sure if it is designed this way or if it was bent by the previous owner....
Any advice....
Oh yeah - I hope my post made some sense
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Thanks for the responses, but I am still torn between motor oil and slip products. I think I am going to try out the motor oil first before I place the order...
Larry - Does it have to be mobil 1, i think I might find it a bit diffucult to find here (South Africa), but there are other synthetic oils such as castrol etc, available in the same viscosity... Will that be ok???
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Does anyone have experience with the slip2000 products? I am looking for one type of oil to use on my open super, ar15 and semi auto shotgun.
If I dont go with the slip 2000 oil, would 10w30 motor oil suffice as some people say the viscosity is good.
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Hello: What I found with recoil springs is they are not always as stated on the package
I ended up making a recoil spring tester for 1911 springs and found that some of the springs differed by as much as 6 lbs when new. I ended up just putting 5 springs in a box then trying them till I found the one I liked. I then checked the spring weight and bought more of those and checked them when they came in to make sure they were the same. It may sound a little anel which it is but at least I have the same recoil springs everytime I change them. Thanks, EricTHAT was some interresting info. Was this a specific brand of springs or a general thing?
Do you have pics and description of the spring tester you built?
I am not sure if it the same reoil spring tester, but I based my design on this link....
I was too lazy to go and buy a 5/16" bolt, so I used my one of my dillon primer pickup tubes. Everything else is the same.
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Thanks for the responses. Will have a look and see if I can find an SV catch around here.
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Not sure if its in the right section but here goes anyways....
STI grip with a standard mag catch. For last 4 months or so I have noticed that the mag catch is actually coming out on the other side (looking at the gun from the back strap, the mag catch can be pulled from right to left through the grip). Not completely but a little bit every time I get back from the range. It seems as if the groove on the inside of the grip is widening.
This is only when there isnt a mag in the gun. If a mag is inserted the mag catch sits fine.
Any ideas on how to repair this or should I get a new grip???
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This posts shows bolt work you can do:
http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...20234&st=30
It helps with cycling and makes a little more room for stuffing a mag to a closed bolt.
Thanks
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I played around with the first shipment of Saigas that arrived in SA recently. This I believe is the new generation model. I noitced that when inserting a mag into the gun, the bolt needs to be locked back. Is there a mod for this at all so that the mag can be inserted without the bolt being locked back? Or are the guys in the US shooting it in the manner?
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Has anyone heard about the new scope that cmore will be releasing? I read about this on Erics forum on the global village.
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In my experience the SPS 170mm mag works great. I ordered the mag from SPS and bought the internals from the US. I put them them together without any tuning and it runs 100% with 29+1.
The internals in the mag is the Grams spring and follower, 4mm basepad and this still makes it legal for IPSC rules.
I am indeed very happy with it.
I ended up making a recoil spring tester for 1911 springs and found that some of the springs differed by as much as 6 lbs when new. I ended up just putting 5 springs in a box then trying them till I found the one I liked. I then checked the spring weight and bought more of those and checked them when they came in to make sure they were the same. It may sound a little anel which it is but at least I have the same recoil springs everytime I change them. Thanks, Eric
Lead bullets and smoke
in General Reloading
Posted
I agree that lead will smoke regardless, and I am used to shooting lead as I have done it in dribs and drabs before. However for some reason the batch I am using now is smoking a lot more than what I am used to. I was hoping there was a quick fix for this but I see not.
Next question - These heads are sized and lubed already. Would I be able to moly coat them with the wax on them already? or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Thanks for the responses thus far.