racer-x
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Posts posted by racer-x
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Rich, your gas pedals are mounted in a way that will probably cause you grief. You need to use 3 short screws to secure your optic mount direct to the frame.
The long screws through the *thumb rest [generic]* will 'clamp' the optic mount, but this isn't enough to keep the mount from rocking under the forces of recoil.
Also, I see that your *thumb rest [generic]* is mounted in the back position - I just changed to this back position a month ago and all I can say is wow. Much, much better control of gun - really hard to believe how much better. Same screw pattern for this position - 2 long screws at front and back of *thumb rest [generic]*, the 3 short screws in the remaining holes.
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9 minutes ago, Maximis228 said:
Less reciprocating mass on the slide and more weight out front from the hybrid barrel.
This plus the Schuemann hybrid holes are actually nozzles instead of straight holes to increase down force.
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I block sanded the left side of my Glock 17-round bodies with 320 and then 800 grit sand paper last night.
All drop free fully loaded now... at least inside at 70F.
Need to range test and see how easily they drop when hot, dirty and wet from the stupid high humidity.
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11 hours ago, BlackBuzzard said:
Strange......all my glock branded 31/33's with taccom splice or TF 41+1 base easily drop free on my GMR15..
Question? Do you really care? You only reload on classifiers with PCC, and those should be done with Glock 17 rounders from belt.
Understood on the big sticks dropping free not being too big a deal in normal match conditions.
The problem is with the 2 out of my 3 17 rounders not dropping free. May just see if I can find a few bodies that work from my old Glock production rig.
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Just wondering how you guys with GMR's are getting your mags to drop freely from your GMR-15's.
Relieve & polish inside of magwell on JP seems like the logical solution, but a little like sacrilege.
Thinking I would have to remove too much of the plastic bodies to make a difference.
I have 1 out of 6 mags that drops freely even when loaded on the range. My mags are Glock 17 with DP extension & Glock 31/33 with TF extension.
Big sticks are wider than 17's and that's where they are binding. Have to pull on them to remove.
All the 17's drop free when not loaded and inside AC. Only 1 still drops free outside loaded and hot temp.
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8 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: The trick with a PCC is to find the bullet profile your gun likes just like pistols. You may have to play with overall lengths and what your barrel will take for the plunk test. I am using coated bullets and also jacketed. All have been very accurate out to 50 yards or so off hand. Thanks, Eric
Think I remember seeing that you were shooting ACME coated bullets in your PCC's before... how is the comp build up after lots of rounds down range with these?
I've settled on the ACME 124's for my PCC and really like the colored bullets to easily distinguish from my 9 Major pistol rounds (MG-JHP's).
Accuracy out of my GMR-15 is around 1.5" @ 50, so it's in the ballpark.
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The first two reamers I tried were not new, but still very functional on untreated barrels.
At any rate, the new PT&G carbide reamer did the job quick & easy.
Also liked the sleeve & lock screws on it used to set the depth precisely.
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Was yours the black PVD finish?
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16 weeks later...
Received the carbide uni-throater today.
Using the PT&G Vipers Venom cutting fluid, it cuts through PVD like a hot knife through butter.
Wow.
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7 hours ago, 1911luvr said:
If you want to ream a nitrided barrel I had some carbide 9mm throaters custom made that will do the job. PM me if interested.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWho made your carbide throater?
I ordered one from PT&G back in March and am still waiting.
Supposed to ship at last today, but 14+ weeks is a long time to wait!
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9mm case holds 13.8 grains of AA#7 full to the top.
I tried a little a few months ago and while it shot nice, it was very dirty in a gritty way. Had 1 malfunction where some of the unburnt particles got into my trigger bow area and limiting trigger travel so that I could not break shot. Not for me.
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I'm shooting through my first batch from ACME and they seem like a very good value.
$365 delivered (with 10% discount) for 6,000 9mm 124 Grain RN-NLG Coated = $60.83 / 1000
Accuracy is good and I haven't had any I wanted to discard yet (loaded & shot 700 so far).
They come in nice wooden crates and with lots of targets as well.
Bullets were at my doorstep 2 days after placing order too.
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I get 10.2 gr of 3N38 in a resized 9mm case - flush with the top of the case.
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1 hour ago, al503 said:
I've shot several K loaded at 1.21" without issue. You have to go a slightly shorter with zeros and PD as they're slightly shorter than MG). I load non compressed loads (AA7, SP2, True Blue, etc.) at 1.19" (with PD, MG and Zero bullets) without issue. I'd check your crimp. I leave a .0 to .0005" bell at the case mouth to avoid over crimping.
I ran nearly 5000 rounds at 1.200 before I had a bullet fall out. Was running True Blue at the time as well, so it wasn't compressed at all. 1/5000 isn't a high failure rate, but I still don't like to get burned by the same thing more than once if I can avoid it either.
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27 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Guess that was 1.200" ? That's Very Long for 9mm ...
Thanks, that is correct - I did mean 1.200
Seemed like it was enough tension on the bullet, until it wasn't.
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9 hours ago, al503 said:
Sounds about right. If your freebore allows, you can load an MG 124 grain bullet out to ~1.21" You don't have to worry about setback because of the compressed powder. You also get lower initial pressure as you're loading closer to Super v. 9mm length.
My experience is that doesn't leave enough of the bullet in the case. Not enough case tension to hold bullet reliably.
I ran MG 124 JHP's at 1.200 until a bullet fell out of case inside magazine during a stage. Kinda messy malfunction. I adjusted OAL to 1.185 with 124's and 1.165 with 115's and have never seen this again.
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I received my first order from ACME last week (124 RN) and have loaded several hundred so far.
Bullets seem pretty consistent for coated with zero found that I wouldn't load & shoot.
Not saying the finish is Montana Gold level, but they aren't in that price range either.
ACME seems like a really good value and they look NOTHING like my 9major loads (MG-JHP).
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12 hours ago, scooterj said:
Yes, they are tight but the short chamber thing is a myth. I've only heard of one with a short chamber.
Absolutely not a myth.
Both of my CK Thunder 9's purchased this year have short throats. Many other reports of the same on BE.
Max I load to in my CK's is 1.130-1.135 OAL with MG JHP's - bullets contact throat at 1.140-1.145.
Also, many folks simply do not plunk test their loads. Just because someone loads to 1.165 does not confirm the bullet isn't pushed into the throat a little in that gun.
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3 hours ago, broadus123 said:
Did you check the overtravel adjustment or just turn it a little ? I have seen them mis adjusted from the factory.
+1
Not enough overtravel will present just like this.
You may also have got a tiny piece of grit in there that pushed it over the edge from just barely enough overtravel, to not always enough.
Try increasing OT by 1/2 -1 turn and see if that fixes it.
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I first used True Blue for 9major in 2008. Overall, it is a great powder. Pretty clean burning, not temp sensitive and very dense - 14.2 grains to fill a 9MM case to the top. Definitely NOT a compressed load for our uses.
I really like the smell when it burns too
The major load I used in a 5.5" Trubor S2 barrel was:
MG 124 JHP
OAL 1.165
8.2gr
172PF
With that said, I recently tried it with my new CK Thunder 9 and the short OAL this gun needs right now... not a good match. Very flat primers when loaded to 1.135 OAL and major PF. Recoil impulse was very harsh compared to similar HS-6 & WAC loads at same OAL.
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A perfectly zeroed gun does a LOT for your confidence making tough shots.
I highly recommend taking a little time to shoot some groups with your gun as supported as you can get it. I use my range bag and a table to get locked in and turn the dot brightness down a lot. At 50 yards, a solid black 5" circle target is really easy for me to perfectly align the dot in also. Really helps in getting decent groups. A little smaller target (2-3") for 20 would be better.
Also, Your dot should be 1.1" over the center of the bore (CK mount and RTS2).
If you zero at 20 yards you should also be zeroed around 50 (assuming 1500fps MG-JHP 115's).
yds inches under / over point of aim
0 -1.1"
10 -.5
20 ZERO
30 .2
40 .2
50 ZERO -
Still waiting on that PT&G carbide throater...
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Definitely do the plunk test to determine how long you can load.
I have 2 CK open 9's now and MG124's contact the throat at 1.40-1.145 OAL in both. I load to 1.130 OAL.
6.9 gr WAC @ 1.130 is good for 1410 in my guns as well.
You do not want to run loads that start out pressed into the throat - will increase peak pressures. Not sure if this could account for your tumbling? Seems unlikely, but would be easy to find out.
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GREAT looking gun!
Who does porting or popple holes for an open gun?
in Open Pistols
Posted
Using 3 short screws & 2 long ones as I illustrated shouldn't have any effect on your dot being off center.
If you are only using 1 short screw, the optic mount will be able to rock on the axis of that 1 short screw under recoil.
The end result is that your dot will be in a slightly different place (up-down) for each shot.
Here is an example of the vertical stringing of shots using just 1 short screw. Same gun put 5 shots on 1 paster at 20 yards after changing to 3 short screws & 2 long.