ajbarr

Does anyone know a good optometrist in South Florida who will work with me to develop a prescription for shooting glasses. I've been messing with this for three years and while mono-vision glasses help, it's not a resolution to the vision problem for me. Thanks

Sorry about your problems. I live in South Florida and we get our share of heat and humidity as well. I have no room in my house to reload. I store all my equipment in a large closet. I have a dillon 650 and i keep it on a large board with 4 rolling wheels. When I want to reload I just wheel it into the garage and put it on a Far Max portable work bench. It only takes about ten minutes to set up and 10 to tear it down and put it all away. What I did do, which cost me some money, is to air condition the garage. No way I could spend hours in there in the summer heat. I don't know if this helps but I honestly can't see how you can do this in a warehouse with no electric or water. Good luck.

What are people's thoughts on shooting 9 mm for single stack? I would think less recoil and larger capacity would be a huge advantage despite the point reduction for shooting minor. Just wondering what people think. Thanks

I noticed a lot of posts about VVN320 for 40 caliber. Most people seem to be suggesting a load of around 5.0-5.4 grains for a 180 bullet to make major. I looked at the VV 2008 reloading guide update and their suggestion for a Fiocchi 180 bullet is from 3.5 to 4.1. This is much, much lower than what most people seem to be reloading with N320. Can anyone give me some good advice on how much powder to use to make a round for 40 caliber. I am using 180 gr MG HPs and the gun is an Infinity with a 5 inch barrel. I have been using Titegroup but wanted to give the N320 a try. Just want to see what people think before I make something that might be too hot. Many thanks

live in South Florida and deal with heat in the garage year round. My solution isn't cheap but it works. I installed a Mitsubishi AC unit that is very small and hangs on a wall. You drill a hole in the wall and the outside unit is on the ground. I use a portable workbench for my Dillon 650. when I want to reload, I move a car out into the driveway and turn on the AC. Instant workshop and its perfect.

I have 2, a Ruger SP 101 and a S&W Model 327. Both are shorter than 2 inches. Thats gonna make the problem worse, the 357 is just not efficient at shorter barrel lengths in factory loadings. and there isnt really any incentive for ammo makers to make it better. 99.9% of the shooters dont have chronographs and equate noise, flash and recoil with power. Now dont get me wrong I am all for bigger and better I just dont see the point of extra flash and recoil when there is zero gain, But back to your original reccommendation if I was intent on using a snub 357 I'd load it with the Speer short barrelled line of gold dots. Thanks appreciate the insight. Should I just bag .357 and stick with +Ps?

I have 2, a Ruger SP 101 and a S&W Model 327. Both are shorter than 2 inches.

Can anyone recommend a good .357 magnum bullet that is low recoil and won't penetrate too far? I have two snubbies and the standard .357 is pretty hot in both. I can use 38 +P but prefer the .357 if I can find the right bullet. Thanks

Same problem here except I get 5-7 flips per hundred. Went back to hand filling pickup tubes. Waste of money in my opinion.

I got one a few days ago. 847-659-0106 EXT 35

Adam I went through the exact same issue you are having a year and a half ago. I had some pretty high end pistols and I am not sure I would say you have to spend big bucks for reliability. Without finger pointing, I've had issues with some of the priciest guns made. My other issue, my personal point of view, is I am not comfortable carrying a 1911 with the hammer back, safety or no safety. I think CZ, for example, makes some excellent single/double action pistols that are great for carry. Also, the PARA LDA has an amazing trigger. I have a .45 with a 3 1/2 inch barrel that holds 12 rounds. I shoot USPSA open and limited. I own a lot of handguns and the two I use for home protection and carry are both revolvers, a .45 S&W and a Ruger .357. No springs, no jams to worry about and pretty much totally reliable.

Thanks Jax

I am not a revolver person so here is what sounds like a pretty dumb question. I just got a new .45 S&W revolver that comes with a half dozen moon clips. I was able to get rounds in the clips by hand (not easily) and can't get them out of the moonclips. Do you need a tool or is there a trick to it? Thanks

I've made them. Work great. I used 6.5 grains of Accurate No 7. and Montana Gold 147s.

I tried 9.4 to 9.7 and it should make major.

I've been having a problem with an open gun and hope someone can shed some light. I originally used VV3N38 and a combo of 121, 115 and 124 bullets, both Zero and Montana Gold. At least 5 or 6 cases get stuck and crushed when being ejected. I recently made about 500 rounds using MG 124s and IMR 7625 powder. The gun is a custom 38 super and I have been using Starline super comp brass, both new and used. I have never had a problem with cases getting crushed using the IMR 7625 powder but consistently do with the 3N38. The gun has about 2500 rounds through it, I keep it very well greased with slide glide. I know someone will say duh, if it works with the IMR powder stick with it but I know that 3N38 is very popular with open guns and this should not happen. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

I am no expert but as far as I know Super and Super Comp use the same shell plate. I load 38 Super and I am pretty sure they are totally interchangeable.

I had the same problem. Is it Starline brass? In any event there are two ways to handle this issue if we had the same problem. First is use Dillon case lubricant. It makes a big difference. Also, if you run your new cases through your cleaning and then polishing compound for about 15 minutes that really helps too.

Its a CZ 75 SP-01. I checked every primer in the box and they all seemed to be seated properly.

I just loaded about 250 rounds of 9mm using Montana Gold (CMJ) 147s, Accurate No. 7 powder and Win SP Primers (OAL at 1.140). Four rounds of these did not fire because the primer failed to ignite. The primer looks like it was seated properly and the strikes are dead center. I read somewhere on the forum here that incorrect OAL might cause primer problems. I was making shorter bullets but had mag problems with them so I changed the size to 1.140 and they feed perfectly. Is it possible that I just have a bad batch of primers or does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks

Can anyone give me load data for Montana Gold 121 IFPs, 9 mm? I am using Accurate No. 7 and they only provide data for a 124 bullet with an OAL of 1.095. If you have a suggested OAL for the 121s that would be very helpful too. Thanks.

Thanks Chuck. I put a bunch in my mag and they chambered fine. Maybe next batch i will make a tad longer. Appreciate the advice.

Thanks. The OAL is 1.095. A friend of mine told me to try the 147s. I also loaded some 124s (same OAL), they are shorter and don't bulge as much. I just made 50 each and am going to test fire them tomorrow. That OAL seems awfully short for a 147. I load 147 FMJ's to 1.145 to 1.160 depending on the bullet. At that length they'll run in a Glock. 124 flat point's and hollow points seem to work best at 1.140. Well I used Accurate Number 7 and that was the OAL they used in their reloading guide for 147s.

Thanks. The OAL is 1.095. A friend of mine told me to try the 147s. I also loaded some 124s (same OAL), they are shorter and don't bulge as much. I just made 50 each and am going to test fire them tomorrow.

I just loaded some 9mm with a 147 gr Montana Gold bullet. Everything looks perfect except there is a slight bulge half way down the case at the base of the bullet. Is this normal or is it a problem? Thanks