Amerflyer48
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Posts posted by Amerflyer48
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Pat Macnamara saved Louis Awerbucks life from a snake once the story is a YouTube video,..maybe thats what your thinking of ?
Warning NSFW but if you are familiar with Pat M you wouldn't need the warning..
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don't have my AR handy but I do recall measuring from the front of the shoulder to gas port and then from the back of the block to the port on my gas block I remember reading that some blocks are drilled forward of where they should be due to using the Mil-Spec location which take into account the hand-guard spacer,now omitted due to a rail system, and that if you put the block flush against the shoulder when installing it can impede gas flow and cause short stroking/non functioning
I also can't recall if I had to space it forward or not, sorryJ
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U used some leftover 2" adhesive backed velcro I got from Hope Depot ask for it it isn't where the command strips etc. are it is a white box (that says VELCRO oddly enough) HOLDS 10 Lbs.
it was left over from the 2" x8-10" straps I made for my safe to hang things on the carpeted door ( carpet is Gray indoor outdoor kind,also bought from HD) just stuck the hook to the loop adhesive sides together holds everything from knives to blasters
also velcroed a Hygrometer from an old cigar humidor to the door to keep an eye on humidity -
on mine I have an HK style flip front gas block from YHM
the HK style centers up nicely with the small aperture
I have also been considering a NM post or as above thinning out the stock one looked at a fiber optic one but that didn't like my older eyes -
this might get more responses in the "Precision" section
Sounds like a good setup to me.
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not sure the QD would hold under the stress I have had the regular ones pull out of wood stocks but maybe for the keymod behind the QD
http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/keymod-bipod-mount-n-slot/
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I have a set of dies set for just my 52 another for my .357 Mags ( taper crimped ) and a set for my regular .38 spls
a fun shooting pistol once you get everything set to the way it likes
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I trim my M52-2 brass as well but I only trim a couple hundred at a time on an old Lyman Universal before loading on my RL450 IIRC it is only a turn or 3 on the handle then chamfer and done.
the rest of the brass is zip loc baggied and labelled and stored in a bin until needed
they are fun pistols except that if you have a bad day at the range everyone who knows what a 52 is knows it isn't the guns fault and it messes with folks minds that a semi uses revolver ammo
I run the typical Bullseye or WW231 load with a slight taper crimp runs like a Swiss watch.
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My 18" (HBar contour) 1-8 rifle gas likes the flat based HP 55 grainers I get from my local store I loaded up with H322 also likes some 77 gr. Prvi a friend gave me a box or 2 they seem to like most everything from the posts I have seen
fit tight in the upper had to use the "heat upper with hair dryer" trick.
they will be my go to barrel for future builds.
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mostly what blind bat uses,
Brake clean = nothing gets wad plastic out faster and other fouling is no problem for it.
synthetic motor oil ( Mobil 1 5-30 EP left over from car oil changes) and wheel bearing grease ( Lucas Red&Tacky in a tub)
but I do have a bottle of Hopes Bench Rest 9 for copper fouling in the rifles when they need it
and an old bottle of #9 when I feel nostalgic just pop the cap and enjoy the smell...
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I would think on the bottom facing the press below the pin pivot point to use 9x45 pic below the red arrow "line" and hiding behind the chute
seems to me the rest either slides against the press to open the chute dropping said spent primer or doesn't move ( negating the counterweight effect) would probably have to be one of those thin magnets maybe looks like a dime.
John
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My verdict is that there's alot more holding me back performance wise than what my bolt carrier is made of I'd tend to think Alu would not last as long and well Ti is cool but not in my budget
I have however hollowed out my buffer to lower total mass a bit and it works swell..
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considering I had been seeing them in Area 7 in use since 1989 or so I'd like to see what claims he could lay out..
Lawyers just make it so we cant have nice things like "clutch pedals" so you can shift to a higher speed/gear
"yeahhh I got a clutch pedal from 1990 thats it,..thats the tickettt" -
As You Wish....
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Yep what he said.....
to get the 3031 to work you would almost have to employ a drop tube and single charge them, slowly, even then that might not work 100% and it will be negating the progressive of the 550
ball powder is your friend in this instancesave the 3031 for your larger bore rifles like a .308 or an -06 or trade it off for a ball type powder
like any thing new, there is a learning curve, stay with it I wouldn't trade my old 450 (with upgraded powder and primer setups) for anything but maybe if the time comes a 550
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beings as the 148s dont speedload well I'd say the accuracy tradeoff will be minimal as compared to reloading speed if you use speedloaders
just punching paper with time to reload, once you find the sweet spot for those 148s it will be hard to beat I have a pet load of the "classic" 2.7-2.8 grs. Bullseye powder with slight taper crimp for my S&W M-52-2 and it shoots really well in my S&W revolvers and switching up to RN or SWCs to use speedloaders the revolvers seem to tolerate the change well I run with 158gr LSWC and groups seem about the same.
TRIVIA : those 148s will from a machine rest in a brand new M-52 will shoot 2" groups at 50 yds. that was the standard S&W held the 52s to before allowing them out the door
The History of Smith & Wesson, Roy Jinks, the official S&W historian, states, “… to insure the accuracy of the pistol, extra-rigid inspection was incorporated by having the Model 52 machine rest tested at 50 yards to assure that the pistol would shoot 5-shot groups having a maximum spread of two inches. Any pistol that could not meet this standard was returned to production for reworking.”
Hope this helps
J
P.S. I use the Hollowbase 148s never found happiness with double ended 148s
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what sschultz said.
I used the wife's hair dryer on my Aero upper when I set the BHW into it, surprised by the amount of heat it put out just put snout of dryer on threads (muzzle to muzzle ?) on low fan high heat for a few mins. and then while heating exterior of upper gently slid the barrel in until it seated then torqued the barrel nut or if you have grille gloves a warm oven would do but id just set oven to warm for a few minutes wouldn't want to overcook an upper
if you are already "stuck" the Upper will expand with a little heat before the steel barrel catches up so all is not lost and hammering isn't something I usually do during an assembly process disassembly on the other hand I have a nice collection of hammers etc.
John
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I'd go for cutting the follower in half fore to aft with a dremel to get it out and try and save the mag body and base pad, might be able to wiggle the spring out then or if you clipped the spring at least it is just a mag rebuild.
or depending on how many I had I'd just scrap it and hang it in the gun room as a "don't do this again " part ( I have a few )
one review said it was a one way trip if you put it together with the lock plate
maybe Taran can offer a get out of jail method I am sure you are not the first shooter to do this.Good Luck
J
P.S. Fishsticks I was also thinking just the BF method
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In addition to Sarges post also check
the screws that set the amount of primer arm depth is off and the cup is catching the primer tube lip at the bottom of the stroke or the hole in the ram below the shell plate at the top of the stroke popping the primer up out of the cup just before it is seated with an empty press cycle slowly and make sure it is a smooth operation by both feel and ear listen for any clicks or to feel any binding
I also "seat the press ram" then tighten the primer assembly to the press, holding the press handle forward with my shoulder while using my hands and wrench to lock it in don't know if that helps but I don't seem to flip primers
John
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Haven't shot bullseye in years but think I saw either a 900 or a 2700 scheduled for next spring,..
might have to get the box out of the attic and give it a go still have it and my Browning Medalist, would just have to reconfigure my Singlestack and load up some ammo
wonder how many here in the benoverse happen to own one
John
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I have one of their green shirts around here somewhere
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could always stick an "AR gas vent" in there instead of a non functional FA since you are thinking of running a lmbcg
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it is all about the angle of the dangle
1 MOA is 1MOA as above has stated
to add some wind practice get out your old .22LR if you have ammo
I bet you could even simulate it using a .177 air rifle ( focuses your follow through ) in your basement or garage if it came down to it due to weather etc.. just keep shrinking the targets to maintain the visual
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not so much about setback as to build a little pressure before the bullet starts moving on its way, a consistent starting point if you will
My setup is to taper crimp about .003" under resized size for my 148's works in my K38, 586, 10 and my 52 S&Ws
also crimping assures you have removed any belling that could affect a reload with speedloaders if you use them
those 231 and Bullseye loads toothguy mentioned are the place to start
John
"yeahhh I got a clutch pedal from 1990 thats it,..thats the tickettt" 
maybe Taran can offer a get out of jail method I am sure you are not the first shooter to do this.
Cheap primer tube clips
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
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My old Lyman Spartan (hand me down) has Safety Pins for the clips. they work just fine also.