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Posts posted by Amerflyer48
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49 minutes ago, dskinsler83 said:
Go lighter. Take your OE assembly apart and clip a coil and reassemble
Will have to look into this, thought it was all swaged/riveted together
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There comes a tipping point/diminishing return on ammo too soft and the slide cycles slow enough you can watch the empty roll out onto your hand while reading the headstamp.
Once you find that break point then the lightest spring that is reliable.
You are done tuning the gun,from there it’s all about the driving
for me it works out to a G34 with a 125 grain bullet at about a 130 PF with a 12 lbs recoil spring on a full length SS rod.
Anything below a 115 PF and I can feel the gun unlock and slide come back for example my S&W 52 wadcutter gun has a PF of 110 and I can watch the gun cycle, I bet I could “double tap” really tight for a fair distance but it would be such a slow double it wouldn’t be worth it, again a diminishing return.
There are a lot of balances beyond a 5 lbs recoil spring a 147 grain bullet and 6 flakes of titegroup.
I will ask much as B_RAD did for more information to add context to your question so we may better help you get to where you are wanting to go.
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Glad to help out
Was going to PDF it but figured a Word Doc would be easier to add to in future or edit for individual notes etc.
and I’m not the most tech savvy LOL.
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Pretty much why I shoot GSSF Indoor League keeps my fundamentals grounded and a 4" X-ring out to 13 yds. (its a short range) keeps me trying for the 500/50x and a sociable night out.
I shoot a 34 in Production so a few parts swap and I am back to Stock in GSSF until I decide to either build up another 34 or change divisions..
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INTERESTING THOUGHT:
So if you were to cut and paste the words of wisdom Sean has freely given us less the "bunny hop" videos ( and the contribution from CSEMARTIN ) it ends up as:
28 pages
Roughly 22,600 Words
And in my notebook on my library shelf along with my range notes, ENOS/Yur 'Yev, Anderson/Bassham, Stoeger,Plaxco books, and a 1983 USAMU manual.
Thank You Sean and CSE , for putting into words what I fail to convey to newer shooters and remind myself sometimes.
I am off to remove the squiggly lines, VigiLink blue writing and use a hi lighter, on my printout... depending on final file size I can post it here as my contribution to helping out
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I always incorporate a few each practice session to remind myself of the feel of slidelock
Just load a few rounds in each mag and go from there.
I shoot Production so the “struggle is real” and more common than open or limited just add it into your practice, and Burkett Drill it until it becomes boring then do some more.
Magwell weight is great it is low on one end of the lever ( think of a pivot at the hammer pin hole) and non moving so it will help with flip but you will need to test to see if a heavier or lighter gun works for you/tracks better.
Bullets up/forward because that’s how your hand will fall naturally to your belt with minimum additional movement,less movement (in this case) is free speed and less to fumble/remember.
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Another vote for Anderson
and Basshams book as well “With Winning In Mind”
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Production shooter here, plan reload points and if I miss or makeup more than one shot I reload then reload again at the planned point to get plan back in track
this Saturday I even had a Texas Star not go as planned (clean or break off at 8 shots) so I was able to move to next box maybe 2 steps away while reloading, shoot those arrays and come back once it settled a bit and picked up the 2 remaining plates now not hiding behind NS so maybe saved a little time vs chasing the revolving rabbit.
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Set one up for each division and swap guns for divisions annually/or per x numbers of rounds etc. to get equal wear ?
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Love my AL390ST 32” ported great trap gun and decent in a duck blind.
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Shannon Smith did something like it 2 years ago.
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I run that .75mm or .029” Glock extended on my 34 due to the fact it double duties as my GSSF stock gun and have never missed a mag drop in a USPSA match
but then again I do shift my grip a bit when I reload
the extension gets too big it creates other problems like support hand bump mid string (spontaneous mag release) so I went with minimal extension to help insure a good mag drop and minimal risk of SMR
actually to think back I never had a problem before my case of new part syndrome.
Burkett Reload drills of course help I just dump the mag on a low table or bed to ease picking up off the floor
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There is a good one up in Gallatin
don’t have his card handy at the moment
call the Reloaders Bench in Mt Juliet they have his info
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I picked up some TTI mid sized used here on the forum they work well and easy enough off/on for cleaning.
and I just use a Magpul for my starter with a 3/16” hole drilled to see the 10th and 11th round.
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3 hours ago, Helios said:
Following - this is quite interesting, though can someone explain the benefit of the island on a gun with an optic?
It is a ported island so a more compact compensated gun one could argue it bridges the gap between a simple “Mag-Na-Port” job and a full blown comp/barrel weight.
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Could see this on my G40
I can dream I guess.
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Looks like SJC but no thread into the frame so possibly an older model.
Yep, Zoom in on second pic thumbrest has the SJC logo
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Think I read 10 round floorplates are different and either need to be trimmed or replaced to fit mag wells or p80s guess a comparison would tell you. It I don’t have any 10 rounders.
Not sure what to say about the trigger though some wear at the start is usual for any parts, just keep an eye on it it should stop at some point
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Find a shooter friendly upholstery shop or awning shop and draw it out for them
might luck out and find an air soft or paintball guy on staff.
I used to do all sorts of odd jobs like that in the off season back when I did the canvas thing. Converted an old Ernie Hill belt to a 2 belt Velcro setup back in 1990 and a custom pink gun cover for a gal who wanted one
Their machines should be heavy enough to either make or modify and existing panel
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A few steel cleaning rod sections and a 25ACP or .32 casing epoxied on one end and some tubing at the joints to act as a barrel guide and the casing goes up against the loved bullet ?
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I just trim down baby bottle brushes.
Last ine one I bought was by KleenBore
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1/4” threaded rod inside thin walled rubber tubing all bought at Lowe’s or HD gun barrel length +3”
I have an aluminum Kubotan from Monadnock as a key ring it is 6” x 1/4” diameter and threaded for brushes have had it for 30+ years Mas Ayoob used to suggest them to his 4” carry gun crowd and I can say it works great.
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Not sure what cycles slower a G17L running 147s or a S&W M52
18 hours ago, Jman said:The G17L has never made an impact in Action Pistol games, no matter the discipline. It's a long sighted slow fire target gun IMO...
Grip enhancers
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
I stole an idea from a rock climbing friend I use something called
Metolius Eco Ball Alternative to chalk Leaves no trace on rock
like a tennis ball sized rosin bag without the white chalky dust.