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tk4

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Posts posted by tk4

  1. I do not recall trying to get any loads that high. Around 135-140 pf IIRC showed not pressure signs with Montana Gold JHP's.

    What's magic about 150 ?

    Doesn't have to be 150, just in the neighborhood. I shoot limited major 40, but I am going to start shooting a lot more 9mm 125gr bullets for practice due to the skyrocketing increase in bullet prices. I figured 150pf would make a decent practice load, a little more pop than a minor load without the over pressure problems of 9mm major.

  2. n320 with 125gr moly coated, 1.125 oal in 9mm 5" sti. Is it possible to reach 150 pf before seeing signs of over pressure?

    With everything else constant, what pf could titegroup reach before seeing signs of over pressure? Thanks.

  3. It boils down to personal preference, but generally I prefer the same powders with 155's that I like with the 180's. The only thing that matters is that the load works for you. Pick up a couple pounds of powder and shoot them, see what makes the best hit factors. Don't necessarily go by feel, what feels best isn't always what we shoot the best. The timer and points are THE best way to evaluate equipment changes.

    How much difference should I expect going from a 185 to a 155 given the same pf and everything else remaining constent? Do you notice a significant difference in times/points if you switch from 155 to 180?

    Thanks,

    Todd

  4. I have been using 185gr moly coated and titegroup for major 40. Due to the high price of bullets I have ordered 155gr bullets to save $. I know the general consensus is the lighter bullets will be too snappy. I have also heard that the faster powders like titegroup are snappier than the slower burning powders. Should I try using a slower powder with the lighter bullet to offset the snappier less controllable effect of the lighter bullet?

  5. Sure it can be done. Here is why it could be a pain in the butt.... :blink: ...You will have to have a different ejector which is pinned on the frame for .45, and then the other for the Super.

    I have a SS STI frame with a 9mm top end and a .40SW top end. Although it seems to be folk wisdom that the two calibers need different ejectors (and slide stops), mine works perfectly with no changes at all to the bottom end. I just drop the other slide/barrel top on it and shoot (does require different magazines).

    My .40 top end was built up by Bob Hunter at Hunter Customs. You might get a quote from him, he did a good job on mine.

    Which ejector are you leaving in, the 9 or the 40?

  6. If you are worried about cost, get a used square deal b dillon reloader. You can probably find one for about $250. It will save you a lot of money in the long run over buying factory ammo. I resisted getting one because I didn't think I had the time to reload, but it just doesn't take that long.

    If you know that you want an edge in the future like your buddies that you have shot, start out with an M&P 9mm. It points nearly the same as my edge, so it would be an easy transition. Until Jan 31st S&W is offering $50 cash back and 2 free mags with the purchase of a new M&P.

  7. Hello: Since SVI and STI both make Tri Top IDPA legal pistols I would say yes. I have a Tri Top 9mm and would use that for my arguement. Others with more knowledge should be able to answer your question more thoroughly. I still say they should have a minimum weight for the slide. That would solve alot of problems and allow some artistic freedom ;-) Thanks, Eric

    Which sti pistol for idpa is tri topped? The only one I saw is the new uspsa single stack gun, and it only shows a competition approval for uspsa.

    Thanks.

  8. there are variations between manufacturers and between calibers.

    I know Schuemann can make a barrel a bit heavier or lighter for a bull depending on what you want. Long story basically he has several different tapers for each barrel length depending on how you want it to lock up and what length slide.

    The bull in my edge weighs about 5.5 ounces. How heavy can Schuemann get a 5" 40 cal bull barrel? I'm wanting more non-reciprocating weight for a standard frame 2011. I already have the tungsten guide rod.

  9. there are variations between manufacturers and between calibers.

    I know Schuemann can make a barrel a bit heavier or lighter for a bull depending on what you want. Long story basically he has several different tapers for each barrel length depending on how you want it to lock up and what length slide.

    Ok, I should have been more specific. 5" 40cal.

  10. I run an edge with a tungsten guide rod, I prefer the weight. I am debating trying it without the tungsten during the winter. It sounds like a lot of people prefer the lighter guns for limited. It seems like it would be a good choice, since it is legal in idpa also. You can always get a second bull barrel for the slide, if you decide later that you want a little more weight out front, or if you could find a tungsten sleeved barrel you would probably have all the weight you would want.

    If you get it, I would definetly get a tungsten guide rod for when you shoot uspsa.

    It seems like uspsa trys to create divisions for idpa shooters, but idpa creates rules to keep uspsa shooters and their guns out.

  11. I have been running the standard sti magwell for a while now, and someone pointed out that other magwells out there have a better funnel for smoother reloading. Will a better magwell, maybe the dp ice, speed my reloads, or should I spend the money elsewhere?

  12. I just got one of the snl base pads. I don't have a guage. How do you measure the mags, from what point to what point? With my calipers I came up with well over the 141.5mm when I measured the full length of the mag. I then measured my other mags with the old dp +1s and they are all long. I figure I must not be measuring correctly.

  13. Im very happy with gunkote; Its much more of a protective surface than blueing, and in my experience, lasts much longer than blueing. The wear that does occur is only apparent at the edges, like the front upper corners of slides and dust covers.

    The surface absolutely must be prepped properly; media blasting and/or parkerizing prior to spraying gunkote is essential.

    The guy who does the gun kote in my area parkerizes the gun first. So the finish should hold up well on the slide and frame rails and keep the gun from wearing in these areas? I'm more worried about wear resistance than appearance. It sounds like it may be the way to go.

  14. Wears off way faster than blueing in my expierience.

    Thanks.

    I don't want to ship my gun off, so I'm trying to find someone in my area that does a decent finish. There is a smith near me that does nickel, but I'll probably have to wait longer than I want to.

  15. hs6 is a bit on the slower burning side. you might want to try something faster. I use it in my open 9mm for major but its REALLY dirty. it is cheap though. for the 185 moly, i would use titegroup if you don't mind some smoke.

    What is your experience on variations in temp changing your pf with titegroup?

    Would like to have a lot of opinions on this.

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