got glock

I like the new shooters that show up and must think to themselves "I got this" and won't listen to a word of helpful advise. They usually help tape, sometimes, when they are not busy "gaming" out the stage. They pull the the most awesome 4 sec standing reload you have ever seen, and perform the tacticool UASC in record time. Most of the time they come back and are all ears when they realize that last month they got smoked by a girl. . My pet peeve is the same people seem to always set up a match, RO the match and tear down the match. I emphasize the importance of helping out with the non-shooting aspects of the game with the new shooters. Most of the time I will invite whoever is there until the end of tear down to the house for beers and some food.

I had (hopefully) the same problem with a G17 caspian slide. The ultimate solution was to use a stock striker spring on a lightened steel striker. That spring adds a bit to the trigger pull but can be offset a bit by using a extra power trigger return spring. Some of the things to check as I am sure that you know are: Is the striker moving freely in the channel? Is the safety disengaging correctly? Is the gun going into battery correctly? When I was having my problems I noticed that the spring cups and channel liner was all scratched up so I replaced them with new. I took out the dremel on the stock spring cups and made small cuts, 2 per cup, that were parallel with the striker channel. My thoughts is this reduced friction, therefore increased striker speed. Along those same lines I am expieriementing with some graphite powder in the striker channel trying to further reduce friction. What happens when you use a stock barrel? Does it go bang? Please let us know what you find to be the problem. Hope this helps.

Update: I replaced the extractor with a branny new one. Ran new magazines. Added a shim (about .130) made of a ball point pen internal tube. Went back to the 9mm bearing because the .40 bearing and the shim was too long and would not let me close the cap on slide. And everything ran great at a match this weekend. While in practice I plan to change out one "fix" at a time and see what actually got the gun running. Thanks for the help.

Called on Monday, hoped to be the first in line for a Fri appointment, requested early AM. They said no problem. We will be there between 8 and 5. Yep it is 4:30 in MO with no phone dude. Hope he is here soon, people are at the range setting up tomorrows match and I want to help. There's another wasted day. Thanks for listening.

CCF is of no help. They say to keep the chamber real clean, use a NLCI extractor and the .40 bearing. Other than that they say "good luck, it is your slides fault"

No the round is not live, holes in the target and everything. Just to clarify the empty is all the way in the chamber like the extractor skipped the case. Just curious, how do you fix the partially chambered live round?

Hey Guys, I have used the search function to nauseum and tried everything I can think of. Please help. Problem: I two stainless CCF Raceframes with a two different G34 slides on them. About once in 50 rounds the guns decide to give me a failure to eject/extract. As everybody knows that does not help win a match. They have pretty much always done this but I did have it band-aided for a while (old style locking block and .40 bearing). Gun runs perfect on the plastic frames. When the problem occurs the spent case is left in the chamber with a new round pushing up against it. Gun Setup: Stainless CCF Raceframe with the new style CCF locking block G34 slide with stock G34 barrel 13-17 lb recoil spring-I usually run 13lb ISMI, but have tested others looking for the cure. Stock plastic guide rod, modified to be uncaptured. The gun definately goes to lockup. LCI extractor for 9mm, have tried many different 9mm and .40's Spring loaded bearing from .40 (forget about it extracting with a 9mm bearing) New extractor rods and springs Factory and reloads. Reloads are 100% reliable with the plastic frames. 3.8 gr tightgroup with a 124 gr MG HP set at 1.115. Brass is range pickup, mostly once fired. Magazines: Have many running from brand new to old as dirt (10,000 or so rounds), does'nt change a thing. Feed lips measure .335-.338 with the brand new magazines on the .338 side. Gun clean or dirty really does'nt matter still FTE's. My hypothesis: 1. The magazines have alot of wiggle when inserted into the gun. Could this wiggle and movement be causing the problem? 2. Could the locking block be a little high? I noticed a small amount of peening on the leading edge of the locking block. I removed a very small amount of material (basically polish) from the bridge to smooth the area on one of the frames to no effect. Thanks in advance. I with your help I can get this thing running.

Allow me to tell you a story to add a bit of humor. I was the MD at a local match and was shooting a stage and shot an make up (honest to god -1 makeup) round on the last target followed by a SLR. My SO was my friend. You know the one that pokes you all week via phone, e-mail and finally in person on match day just to mess with your head. So after I got done shooting he said he just gave me a FTDR for round dumping at which time I told him "I just confered with the match director and you have been overuled" and walked away. We still laugh about it.

I had this same problem. My hillbilly remedy was to install a 9mm NCL extractor and a .40 bearing. The bearings are the little plastic piece on the end of extractor rod/spring assembly. 9mm bearings are black, use a white one which is .40. Also keep your gun real clean. The bearing fix lasts 2-3,000 rounds then goes back to its old ways. Hope this helps.

Hey guys the match information is up for the MO State match. The match will be June 21 and 22. Information can be found at www.benchrestidpa.com. The match will be 130+ rounds in 10 stages. Shooting will be either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning with prizes and trophies on Sun. Afternoon. I look forward to seeing everyone there. Charles

"The primers are struck high and when measuring the hole compared to a stock slide it's a few thousanths off." Amen to that. I tried shaving a few thousands off the striker tip but it did not work. My solution is to send the slide back to the manufacturer and let them deal with it. They insure that they will get it right this time.

The nose of a Glock striker has several machined grooves to accept the corner of the firing pin plunger. As the plunger is raised, it lines up with the groove that allows the striker to come all the way out. Plunger down, it goes into the shorter channel which does not allow that. If it is banging into the plunger, you can usually see it in that area. Yeah I checked that, I really could not see any wear marks with the sharpie. I think that tomorrow I will take everything back to stock and go one part at a time and see what seems to remedy the problem. Thanks for all of your quick replies.

"Rock the gun fore and aft and you should hear the striker flipping back and forth free in the channel. If it is not moving, something is dragging. Try pulling the trigger a bit harder to get the trigger bar farther back and see if it frees up the striker. If so, the safety plunger is dragging because it is not fuully raised." When I pull the trigger normally I hear the striker moving back and forth. When I pull the trigger harder I hear a very small click and the striker moves back and forth a little louder. Maybe the striker is hanging up on the safety plunger.

"Yes. The trigger bar is releasing the striker before the FP plunger is fully raised. Did you check the nose of the striker and see if the edge of the groove is getting dinged?" Ok you lost me on that one. What is the edge of the groove?

Ok, so I got this wonderful new pistola put together and I am getting light primer strikes. I am so excited to get this thing running right it is ridiculous. It does'nt go bang about 1 in 15-20. The gun has a Caspian G17 slide, Briley barrel and comp, tungsten guiderod, 13 lb spring, lightened striker and a Vanek connector, ejector and safety plunger. The parts are on a stock 3 pin frame. I have been expierimenting with various striker and striker spring combinations all afternoon. I have tried the following springs in combination with a stock, Lightning Strike steel and Glockworks modified strikers with stock (1 in 20 light strikes), wolf standard power (1 in 15) and wolf reduced power (forget about it) springs. I have also tried different safety plunger springs just looking for something different that might work. Along the way I noticed that the striker was hanging up on the hole in the breachface so I carefully filed off a very small amount of the striker tip to allow freedom of movement. I checked the fitment of parts using the sharpie trick and everything moves great.........until you install the safety plunger. Once the safety plunger is installed the striker no longer drops free and I feel some friction once again. So I check the part fitment with the sharpie and the slide hole is no longer rubbing on the tip of the striker only on the safety plunger/striker interface. I use Winchester Small Pistol Primers for my loads. I have never had any problems with light strikes in several different gun/trigger combinations. So does anybody have any ideas of things to try to remedy the situation or is it really just part of the break in process of a new pistol. Thanks in advance for the help!

Drifter, I use a bale counter to count my cartridges. I bought it from the local John Deere store. I mounted the clicker to my workbench and used a piece of wire looped around the bottom of the ram on my 650 to move the clicker arm. Mine was about $12-14 but is nearly identical to the one in the picture. Has lasted 20-30K rounds so far. Hope this helps. http://www.fordtractorpart.com/bale-counte...-5228-prd0.html

Thanks for all of the info guys.

Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster here. I hope that I have this in the right forum. Anyway I have shot quite a bit of IDPA and have dabbled a bit into USPSA in the last year and a half. The problem is I think that I want to shoot more USPSA next year. That being said I see the guys out there shooting the open guns and that seems like a lot of fun. I have only owned a glock. I want to stay with that platform. So here goes my questions/thoughts. 1. I currently shoot a CCF Raceframe in ESP. How difficult is it to fit an aftermarket barrel to that frame? How do you know if you even need to fit anything? 2. I think that I will want to shoot .40 S&W in open. I think I would feel safer than major 9. I know that I will give up capacity, but how often is that really a big deal? Where does one purchase the big stick magazines? 3. Is there an advantage to a slide ride optic over a more traditional mount. 4. What is the consensus of the LWD barrel comp setup in .40. Does it work? I know that I can go to SJC and order a gun, but I like the tinkering process along the way. Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Charles