kurtm
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Posts posted by kurtm
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I like to change my main spring about every 25-30,000 rounds. I don't think I have ever changed the hammer/ trigger. I have replaced the lifter spring twice, and the shell cut off lever spring once. I have gone through quite a few mag springs, but never an inertia spring. I've got just a hair over 350,000 on this M1 so far, and it is still running!
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All joking aside, I have run about 1400 through my old M1 and while I have always kept the rails wet with what ever oil came in shooters bags, I never noticed any undue wear, and it still runs like a charm.......oh my bad......that 1400 CASES of shells. If you want to use grease feel free. As long as it has some form of lube you won't wear one out.....I know, I have really been trying.
As an aside, ALWAYS use an extreme pressure grease on the cam pin and cam pin slot, the rest just oil/ grease with whatever. Keep it wet!!!
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Jeff was/is quite a bit faster than that, and he was in the 5.5- 6 second range for 8 for the good old turn and burn. A close second for this was The two Bennys, Hill and Cooley. I miss me some Jeff Cramblit!!!!
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Good choice! Even when they were in vogue I always thought they were like putting gas cans on the sides of a Ferarri!
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The Benelli Nova's do have a v notch, maybe it's just an 870 thing!
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No I did not. I built a gun for them to "blue print", and like usual they didn't want to really do what needed to be done. After I sent it to them I never heard another word from them. Yes the trigger guard sucks and the one they sent me needed lots of Dremel work to make it not hurt you.....but they may have changed that.....I don't know, because after we stopped talking I lost all interest.
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I'm thinking extra virgin olive oil!!!!
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Long ago, I tried that very thing on a M1 Benelli. I made that thing so "nice" there was no way it wouldn't go into battery. Life was grand.......so I thought. I was plagued by intermittent bolt out of battery clicks, about 1 in 30 rounds. I made that cam slot nice and smooth and did away with the entire shelf area till it looked more like the cam surface on an M-14....... and still the dreaded Benelli click, very intermittent and very frustrating. Then I filmed the damn thing in very slow mo. What I had done was actually causing the problem. That shelf is there to keep the inertia spring from compressing when the bolt is shoved forward by the recoil spring. When I viewed the video I saw the bolt and carrier bouncing back well over half way, because the shelf area was gone. A new bolt carrier,......which was VERY hard to find in Benellies infancy, cured it! Then I had to re-do all the cool stuff to it that I had done to the one I ruined. This was in 1998. I'm not a smart guy, but I do catch on.... especially when the lesson comes with a very heafty price tag!
I am very glad that what you did worked out! Nothing screams success quite like success......but if you have an intermittent Click it will give you a place to start looking. The only reason I even brought it up was that if your like me, a little is good, so a lot must be better.......and it got real expensive. I wasn't calling down your work, but kind of using you as a warning g for others that like me would hog the hell out of it!!!
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Sorry Woody, I just now saw your post on the fly cut. Take a Dremel with a cut off wheel and extend the cut all the way out the front to the depth of the deepest part of the fly cut. BTW this will also allow you to load the tube when the bolt is out of battery, like when it is flagged, or in the rare instance the bolt didn't close all the way.
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Well Mr. Benelli also! It has been a while! I sure do hope I see you soon!!!
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R.O.s remove the flag as you work the action, they hold on to it while shooting, and they insert it after the unload and show clear while you lower the bolt.
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Oh yeah! The flagging really sent the R.O.s into uncharted territory! Having shot a lot over seas where flagging is well coreographed, it sure was painful to watch the R.O.s try to deal with this. I watched an unload and show clear last 3.25 minutes while the shooter and R.O. checked their pockets to see where the flag might have ended up....yes I timed it!!! I hate flags, BUT if you are going to use them have a system in place....and YES!!! Saturday was better!!
On another note the 1/2 day format killed my knees. They both swelled up like footballs because there was no time to sit down and rest, nor load magazines, take care of gear etc. Works great for a 1/3 gun match, but for 3-gun it sucks on ice!!
Best Smm3-G in a few years and the stages were GREAT! I had a blast and was fortunate to also shoot on lucky 13
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It is hard to fix stuff over the internet for sure. My terms may not be your term. It is possible we are saying the same thing, or we are way off. Who knows? Sorry it didn't work out. I wasn't the only one who thought it had been opened up too much, so maybe it is the angle of the video. I leave you with one last thought, try a different magazine follower, like a Nordic or something other than the Stoeger one, if you haven't already.
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Also while your at it, go back and try to find out when you told me that you had tried another bolt carrier and trigger group from another gun. That little tid bit of information only came out in your "angry" post. One can only go by what they are told, and since you didn't tell me this, I went with a problem I have known to happen in other Stoegers which is very much like the problem you said you had. To get mad at me for not knowing what you have tried, without telling me is just a little tawdry.
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I'm beginning to think that you are doing the work on this gun, and not "your friend", I really don't see where my comments to you as the non owner/worker on we're out of line, but to each their own. Just to help me out in the future, which big words did I use that didn't help? Perhaps I am not being clear enough. The extra room at the back of the port is allowing the rolled rebated part of the crimp of the second shell to over ride the rim of the first shell. In so doing it is forcing the first shell into the bind you are trying to display. The harder you push, the more the crimp slides down the coned out port further forcing the rim of the first shell into a bind. It is absolutely clear from the video that this is happening. In the case of Benelli they had only removed 15 thousands from just the wrong area. I don't ever recall calling you, or implying you were an idiot, but I also understand the amount of frustration you must be facing, if you in fact are the guy working on it, and not your friend. Good luck with it. BTW I was able to fix the other Stoeger over the interweb, so tonight I guess I'm 50/50.
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On 2/25/2018 at 2:24 PM, usmc1094 said:
This is a friends new m3k. Loading 1 shell is fine, anymore than that this happens about every 5th time. Any idea what I can do to get it going?
And I re post this for your thought process. "Loading 1 shell is fine". Directly from your video post as you can see above.
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No I am talking about the big old hollow tube thingy that that little clip fits on. Make sure that little clip thing is on the LEFT SIDE as you look down on the trigger assembly with the lifter facing away from you.
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BTW about 1 in 10 of the Stoegers has the fly cut in the wrong place which causes hard loading/ binding right from the factory. I also ran into this on an M2 middle of last year. I was absolutely surprised that a Benelli had this problem, but there it was. I had never seen that in Benelli ever.....well can't say that again. It was so bad a shell could not be inserted! Don't they check things like this at the factory?.......NOPE!!
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First off the video CLEARLY shows a port that has been opened way up, it didn't come from the factory that way! It is allowing the crimp of the second shell to ride over the rim of the first shell and this is what is causing the bind. Two objects can't coexist in the same space ment for one!
Secondly, the first "trouble" was not caused by the port being too small it was caused by the fly cut on the bottom of the bolt carrier being improperly cut causing the lifter not to depress enough causing the single shells to bind. TWO COMPLTELY DIFFERENT PROBLEMS!!! Like I said in my P.M. it is amazing how much a improper fly cut, off by 5-10 thousands of an inch can end up causing so much damage......when one doesn't understand what is happening and just starts grinding.
Is this gun in Sweden by chance???
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Two things make sure that when you put the trigger group in you are pushing in the bolt release button nice and hard.! (Most likely problem)
Second, if that doesn't do it, make sure your hammer pin Is inserted the right way through the shell release tab, lifter and hammer. It should have the little spring detent on the left side and the flanged head on the right side going through the shell release tab.
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Yes, it will drop right in.
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Sounds like the release is not timed properly. Bend the tab on the shell release lever.....the one by the trigger guard, where it contacts the hammer spring plunger, down just a bit.
Disclaimer!! I don't know how brittle Stoeger parts are! I know you can do this with Benelli parts, but with old Stogies.....you never know! I do know I have seen several that weren't " timed" right.
Auto loading M2
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Thailand, not Japan.