ledavatar

I've used them in my G19 w/ decent sucess. 5.0gr HS-6 @ 1.15 COAL makes 130PF.

Yea i read about the hit/miss thing w/ external extractors. But before I shot IPSC I never had a problem w/ it since I was using 8rd mags exclusively. Brass is not hitting me nor landing too far. I don't think it's the extractor.

I have the external extractor. I'm also confused as to whether to get a lighter or stronger spring...

Ok, this is my cockamime theory that I've been holding back regarding loading long vs. short… For long cartridges, if the feed angle somehow isn't lined up propery in the mag and the nose of the bullet is pointing down on the feed ramp, when the slide picks up the cartridge it doesn't have much room to go in gaining momentum and thus gets stuck right away at the ramp. Shorter cartridges on the other hand picks up a bit more speed and thus will climb the ramp easier when it hits it. Of course in the end every gun is slightly different and maybe mine just likes short COALs better. Hell, I haven't even tested this on the range yet so I can't jump to conclusions. Also, it sounds like I gotta get a new spring... What will a worn spring do to my gun? My certainly doesn't feel "worn out," and the silde is as heavy to rack as the day I got it.

I have an RCBS electronic scale and it does something like this, and the changing weight can go either way. However, I've never seen it go more than +/- 0.2gr. On a related issue, I have a Dillon RL550B press, and on all cartridges I load (.45, 9mm, .357, .44, .40, .357), the first powder charge I throw always measures 0.2gr more than all subsequent ones on my scale. This happens with all powders. If I leave the press alone for say 5 minutes and begin again, the first charge is over by 0.2gr again. I don't know if that's an issue w/ my scale or press. I don't have any other scale to check it against.

What primers are you using? I've crushed a CCI primer completely flat once and it didn't pop.

Yea w/ 8rd Wilson mags I've never had a problem, the problem only occurs w/ 10rd mags due to the slightly lower angle of the top bullet. I don't know what # the factory spring is? Anyone know? I've never replaced recoil springs on my guns, what's the recommended replacement time, and should I change to a lighter/heavier spring? The question remains to those who can comment - is loading short better than loading long?

I've loaded over 5k rounds of .45acp for my Kimber 1911 and I've never really had any problem w/ feeding problems, but it's been popping up recently. First, I should mention that I switched to 10 rounders (chip mccormick, wilson 47T, tripp cobra mags) from 8rd Wilson 47Ds, and that is most likely the cause of the problem since the feeding angle is different. I use mainly 230gr masterblasters RN, 200gr rainier's RN with 1.25 COAL, and they both occasionally feed a round halfway into the chamber and get stuck out of battery. Sometimes I can tap the back of the slide when it jams, and the round will feed in, and sometimes it really gets stuck on the extractor. Chip McCormick mags cause the most number of jams, followed by Wilsons, and the Tripp mags I only had it for one range session and it jammed once out of maybe 150rds. There's many different variables that be the source of jams - 1) mag feed lips, length and dimensions, 2) mag catch - yes I replaced it, and 3) ammo. I want to concentrate on ammo here. Am I simply loading too long? Is it better to load short rather than long in terms of better feeding characteristics and why? Yesterday I loaded some 200gr masterblasters Flat Heads, and due to the flat head the COAL came out to be 1.20 (I was kind of forced to load 1.20 because of the grooves). I manually cycled some rounds through my gun, and it "feels" much better than 1.25 COAL rounds (I don't feel a slight hangup on the top rounds as the slide pushes them into the chamber). I didn’t get any jams through any of my mags.

Ok, this is my only "major" gun currently and I don't want to send it off to a smith and wait like 2 months, esp. when the problem is sporadic. I think what had happened was a combination of 2 things - leftover grit from sanding/polishing the rails (like ima45dv8 said), and no oil on the disconnector. When I detail stripped everything I took the chance to clean all the parts and didn't really oil anything when I put it back together. After I wiped everything down and put some oil on the contact parts (plus small drop down the disconnector hole), it doesn't seem to be sticking at all now. I just shot about 150 rounds at the range today, it was fine. Whew.

Is this reloaded ammo or factory? I aks because I had some loaded long and had the same issue with my Kimber Super Match. Reloaded of course, I do load on the long side - 1.25 COAL. My LEE book says 1.178 is shortest, but the round looks dangerously short at that length. What length would you recommend? My load is 200gr Rainiers over 5.0gr Bullseye.

The gun is not new, it has maybe 4k thru it. I don't remember if the gun was like this when I first got it (3yrs ago), since I was pretty new to shooting at the time, however, it definitely didn't have the slide stick issue. I don't want to lighten the disconnector if it has the potential to make my gun go full-auto, but rather "fix it" to original specs so that the problem doesn't occur. In any case, do you guys have problems w/ feeding (on 10round single stack mags) if you're slow-cycling the slide?

Interesting… well 600grit was the highest grit home depot had, so that's what I got. I thought it did a fine job of smoothing things out (a lot better than before). However, you may be right, some grit or removed material may be contributing to the slowdown. The trigger does drop out on its own weight and has always done so. I do think the disconnector has a lot to do w/ it though, since the slide only hands up towards the back portion (and jumps forward when it clears there). The "bump" I feel is the result of the disconnector.

I detail stripped my Kimber Eclipse Custom II the other day and polished up the trigger/trigger bow as well as some slide-to-frame contacts with 600grit sandpaper. When I put the gun back together, the slide was behaving erratically. I would rack the slide back, and when I release, it hangs towards the rear and then at first slowly moves forward making a grinding noise and then jumps forward. After some investigation I found out the problem is that the disconnector had too much tension and is dragging on the slide. I don't think I did anything wrong in the reassembly the first time, because otherwise the gun wouldn't function. So I disassembled the gun again and put it back together and dropped some oil (militec) around the disconnector. After cycling the slide a few times, it's better. However, I still feel the disconnector dragging on the slide a bit when I hand cycle slowly back and forward. I was comparing this against my friend's SVI limited gun, and his slide feels smooth all the back and forward, and you cannot feel any bump from the disconnector. Is this because of a heavier sear spring that is touching the disconnector, and how do I lighten the tension on the disconnector? I should mention that I'm concerned about this because I "think" the slight slide dragging may be causing some of my round feeding issues. Sometimes when I hand cycle rounds, I would get failure-to-feed issues (nosedives & round feeding half way) if I cycle the slide slowly. I thought it was just my chip mccormicks power 10 mags at first, but my wilson 47Ts started hiccuping after a while too. I got some cobra tripps in the mail and haven't gotten a chance to try them out on the range yet, but I still get FTFs cycling w/ them by hand.

Interesting stuff. Here's another question. In the picture below, I see that the compensator looks pressed onto the barrel - is that right? Also, the top of the hybrid barrel rib is the same color as the compensator and the barrel below is gold. My question is, where does the barrel end and the compensator begin? It looks like it's all one piece. I specified that I want the entire barrel gold, including the barrel rib, so I don't know how that will look in relationship to the compensator (as in, where does the gold color end?).

Wow, thanks for all the replies. 1) Magwell – I intend to install a Dawson ICE magwell, as the stock one looks too small. 2) Tungsten guiderod – Brandon Strayer said having a little bit of weight near the muzzle serves to lessen dot movement. Is tungsten that brittle as to break during a match? 3) I was wondering about the USPSA Open division vs. IPSC modified division as well. There was an option to select either “IMM Open Pistol - Wide Body” or “IMM for IPSC Modified Division - Wide Body,” and I selected the first one. Both of them have the unchangeable line “IPSC Modified Division Infinity IMM Special®: Yes (to select IPSC Modified Division IMM Special)” in the gunbuilder. The one I selected should be the normal USPSA Open pistol. But good point, I will ask to check. XRe, how do you like the standard blued finish? I was afraid of its low scratch resistance properties. I mean, I compare the clearly visible scratch on my previously beautifully blued baby browning vs. the tenifer finish on my glock… and I just know I gotta have scratch resistence.

First of all hello to everyone, I’ve been a long time lurker here trying to learn as much as I can, and have found this forum invaluable in answering beginner’s questions. I’m ordering an open gun from SVI, and I’m having trouble deciding on the finish since I have heard a lot of conflicting opinions. A lot of people seem to get hard chrome on carbon steel to get that hardness. I wanted that option, but it wasn’t available from SVI, as they don’t like hard chroming and will void my warranty if I choose it. There’s also no other way of getting the stainless color with carbon steel frame/slides. I can 1) get the carbon steel but choose a black finish, like the “blued finish” or the infinicoat “gun metal light.” Does anyone know how the infinicoat compares to hard chrome? I really like the polished slick finish of hard chrome, which I feel is easier to clean and the hardness makes it difficult to scratch up, so I want to pick something that is similar. I think the blued finish is the 2) I can get stainless steel and just choose the stainless finish. What are you guys’ opinions on carbon steel vs. stainless steel frame/slide combinations, hard chrome, infinicoat, and stainless/blued finishes? I also included a list of my options for critiques! Any suggestions would be helpful to me!!! Thanks in advance. Template Name: IMM Open Pistol - Wide Body Last Updated: 09/18/07 Quantity: 1 AET Barrel Option: AET Barrel: 3 10 degree Rearward Hybrid Holes Barrel Length: 5 Barrel Style: Non-Bushing Style (Cone/Bull Barrel) Caliber: 38 Super Comp California/ Massachusetts Resident: No Compensator: IMM Open Titanium Compensator Dust Cover: Standard, w/Carbon Fiber Mount Installed (C, G, L) Dust Cover Fluting: None Frame Material: Carbon Steel Frame Style: Competition (Polymer wide body) Front Sight: None Front Slide Cut: None Grip : Standard, Right Handed (Competition frame only) Grip Safety: Steel Grip Surface / Finish: Scotts Grip (Competition and Compact) Guide Rod: Tungsten Gun type: IMM Modified (4.5 inch) Hammer: Square Hammer Finish: Tool Steel IPSC Modified Division Infinity IMM Special®: Yes (to select IPSC Modified Division IMM Special) ITI Rail cut: No Rail Cut Mag Well: No Magazine Well Magazine Catch: Steel, 4-40 tap Magazine Release Button: Small Blued Stainless-This option requires 4-40 magcatch. Mainspring Housing: CS Flat Panel Cut: Yes Pistol Finish: Infinicoat Gun Metal Light Radial Flute: None Rear Lightening: No Rear Sight: None Rear Slide Cut: 20 lines per inch sawtooth Scope: Cmore Scope Slide Ride Click Switch Slide Lock Pin: Steel - 4140 Slide Material: Carbon Steel Slide Profile: Three Sided Slide Racker / Lightening: Original Racker/Lightening Stirrup Cut: Yes Strut: Titanium Thumb Safety: Carbon Steel Thumb Safety Style: Ambidextrous Wide Top Rib: 40 lines per inch Trigger Base color: Silver Trigger Bow: Titanium Trigger Insert Color: Silver Trigger Insert Style: Curved Short Triglide System: Yes