DACP-KS

that's whats called a UFO, unidentified flying object

WOOOOW very beautiful guns sir, Merry christmas! Hope Santa brings me the same, I think I was good.

How do you order and what is the site address

After reading the follow-ups I'm just worried right now if i messed up the trigger job. I haven't shot it since messing with the adjust and have since backed it up after acouple dry fires. I held the hammer back while pulling the triger and feel no half cock anywhere so I'm guessin I all right. Trigger travel wasn't bad to start with, just trying to get the best out of it. tanx

Got it

How do you know where to stop?

I finally have been able to borrow an allen wrench that will fit my trigger, made adjustments clock wise in my attempt to reduce over travel or travel prior to my triggers activation. Fooled around a bit turning the screw as far as it would go, till there was no click or fire. Then backed up till it would fire. I really did not notice any less travell, what is this screw for?

I have an service XD45ACP, I have tried never had that problem, love that pistol. I first tried traction grips, basically skate tape in sand finish. I new use AGRIP completly different better comfortable grip. Bought from www.brookstactical.com

Sorry to hear that, I have the Ed Brown in my Spartan and forunatley it fitted like a glove

I heard the same thing, stick to http://www.brookstactical.com/

I have a single stack STI Spartan, single stack e name='Flexmoney' post='634729' date='Oct 17 2007, 03:36 PM']The plastic STI trigger is well likely. (being light and all) FWIW...the Caspian trigger you pictured looks to be for a single-stack. I'mnot sure that Caspian makes a trigger for double-stack STI ???

anybody try the two, which is best?

Great thank you very much!!

Didn't know that thought they were all interchangable. Thanks

I bought an Ambidextrous Safety for my STI Spartan 1911, I took out the old safety and tried install the left side first with pistol grips off. It will not go all the way in, seems like it is being blocked by the sear. I looked compared original and the new safety and discovered that the part that interacts with the sear is larger than original. Aren’t most 1911 parts interchangeable? Spartan is a 70 series pistol could this part I bought be for an 80 series, or do I need to file the sear or the safety to fit? Thanks for your time and assistance

I had the same problem after replacing my MSH with new magwell/MSH. I had to remove metal of the forks on top of the new magwell housing. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry610675

I shot at a IPSC qualifier last July and received a D classification in LIM10, I asked someone how does a person improve their classification and was told that I would have to shoot the next qualifier or classifier next year and your classification can improve. It depends on your scores compared to the majority of shooters in you category. Is this true I only have the opportunity of improving my class once a year?? Also, I plan to shoot SS or LIM, at the next match not classifier, will my class be U for unclassified? Thanks

Thanks Crush, I finally got it out after soaking it twice, after 8 hours it was still stuck. Soaked it again in acetone for 12 hours and came out. Now I have a problem of RUST in the area of the old mag catch, trying get that off the frame. Thanks again

well I soaked in nail polish remover for an hour, used a sodering iron as recommened and now the screws head is almost stripped. I have an appointment with the gunsmith tomorrow afternoon, until then I'm going to soak over night in acetone. Can I soak it in an old plastic coffee can, also will it hurt the bluing? Thanks all for your assistance and time, either way! Forums are great.

Will using a propane torch, just getting it up to temp, damage the bluing? And maybe heating it from the inside?

What type of lock-tite. You should have only used the Purple color stuff (Small thread locker). If you used any other type use heat to soften adhesvie bond and remove screw. MDA I used the medium BLUE STUFF

I used lock tight to instal my magazine catch or release button on the drilled and tapped end. I must of used too much because it's stiff to activate and I cannot unscrew the mag catch assembly from the frame. Are there any cures out there. Besides drilling it out. This is a 1911 and subject regarding Extended mag release

thanks

would this problem disqualify me from a match?