Toolguy
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Posts posted by Toolguy
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Any muzzle device is prone to bullet strikes if it's not very closely aligned with the bore. Assuming that it was made right to begin with, some blue LocTite on the screw threads will go a long way to keeping it in place. Don't use "one drop" like a lot of "experts" say. Coat the internal and external threads so every space is filled up, then wipe off any excess. In this application, there's nothing else it can get into and cause problems. Same deal with strain screws on the mainspring.
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I put a 507c on my 627 with an Allchin mount. I don't know if a 510 is the same as a 507. I ended up having to mill the bottom of the mount on a 1 degree angle with the front higher than the rear, because the 507 dot is angled down 1 degree for semi auto pistols where the barrel is pointing down 1 degree when in battery, and level when the slide is open.
I couldn't sight in the elevation until I did that. One degree doesn't seem like much, but it is 15 inches at 25 yards and 30 inches at 50 yards. The Allchin mount is a good quality product. This is not the fault of the mount. The mount is made for dots that are calibrated for a zero degree barrel, not an angled down towards the front barrel.
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I'd say you're doing great!
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You might try a RevupAction.com drop in hammer kit. The trigger pull gets easier as you pull it back, down to about single action weight by the end. The rebound spring is all you're pulling against by the end, so whatever rebound spring you have in there is the ending pull weight. That will be around 2.5 to 5 pounds of trigger pull. The beginning pull is whatever the mainspring is set at to fire the primers. There are videos of it on the website.
I also invented a way to shoot other than Federal primers in a tuned revolver. I have done Winchester and CCI, so Remington would probably work too. I don't know what any of the foreign brands are like.
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I have gotten 4 Allchin revo mounts this year and all of them were perfect. I did have to mill the ones for the HoloSun sights with a 1 degree angle going uphill to the front in order to sight them in. The sights are set up to go downhill 1 degree to account for the barrel lockup in semi-autos. The barrel goes downhill about 1 degree when in battery, level when unlocked.
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It also depends on how much force the mainspring is exerting on the hammer. If it's set for a 10 or 12 pound trigger pull, it will set off primers in more adverse conditions than if it's set for a 5 or 6 pound trigger pull.
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The loose 627 ones may work with Winchester cases.
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Back when, I think the Ranch 45 ones were about $40.00 a hundred. I don't know what they are now.
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I've been using the same 100 .45ACP Ranch ones for about 30 years. Maybe 5 or 6 bent ones in that time, not counting the dozen or so that USPSA auto shooters trampled intentionally.
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Any bend in a moonclip will act as a spring (it is made of spring steel) and dampen the impact of the firing pin on any round that is held above the back surface of the cylinder. Moonclips need to be very flat to work right. There was a tool made to fix bent ones, can't recall the name at the moment.
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You can recharge your speed loader from the Tesla car battery, too!
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I wear contacts for distance vision. That works great for a dot sight, the dot and target are both pretty in focus. Sometimes I get a small amount of starburst on the dot, but not enough to be a big problem. Then wear non prescription shooting glasses.
For iron sights, I have front and rear fiber optics with orange front and green rear. I have found the red fiber is very dim and not much help (for me). Green and orange are bright and readily visible, even in very low ambient light. Then I wear corrected shooting glasses that are focused somewhat beyond the front sight, so that the sights are in fairly good focus, and can still see the target well enough. I don't know the numbers, but it would be different for everyone, anyway.
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Ha ha. Not much.
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Thanks for sharing. I had no idea there were that many.
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Grab it. You won't see that deal again.
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The PCs get zero action work. The internals are the same as all the other ones, with the parts put in and stuck in a box and kicked out the door. They all need worked over to be competition grade. The S&Ws have the most potential for a really good action of all the brands, including Manhurin, Korth, and all the high dollar Euro ones.
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I could use the Miculek grips.
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That firing pin might be a bit short. I would take it out and measure it. A lot of factory firing pins are too short. You want a minimum of .495. I like mine in the .505 range. You might try the misfire one another time or two and see if it goes off.
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Looks fine to me. Probably (maybe?) the primer wasn't seated all the way in on that one round. The main thing is how far does the firing pin stick out when the hammer is all the way down? It should be about the thickness of a dime.
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Oftentimes the best way to fix ejection problems is to hit the ejector and release immediately. A lot of times the brass won't fall away until the extractor retracts.
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We'll just be coming off a week at Bianchi Cup, so not a good time for us.
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Go for it! You'll have great stories to tell your grandchildren!
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I put a 627 cylinder in my 929 and shoot short colt in it and 2 627s.
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I've been shooting the same 1,000 Starline 38 short colt for years. I don't keep track of reload times, but probably 25 or 30 each. Still have well over 900, find a cracked one occasionally and toss it. They will probably get me through this year. I still have 2,000 brand new that I haven't needed to break into because the original ones just keep on going. Also, you get your own same brass back every time because they're on moon clips.
Open revolver
in Revolver Forum
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The internals are all the same out of the box, until the owner does improvements. Some guns come better than others, that's just luck of the draw. The factory doesn't do any tuning on any of them, they just want you to think they do.