Toolguy
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Posts posted by Toolguy
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7 hours ago, Tampa-XD45 said:
How about doing a YouTube video the next time you fit one?
Don't have the video shooting or editing skills or the time right now. Maybe someday.
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I've been having good luck with Bayou Bullet polymer coated 160 RN, loaded in 38 Short Colt. Several other bullet makers have the same one.
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Those are both 2 of the best revos you can buy for any price. I have seen the $5000+ Korth and Manhurin ones. They don't have nearly the nice action that a well tuned Smith can have. They may be better out of the box, but a Smith can be way better for far less investment.
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Get more Power Custom parts. They are top quality. Then bring everything over and I will help you git er done.
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Anything with a flat part on the end can potentially hang up during a reload. Round nose is still the best choice. Probably the spire points would work well too, never tried them.
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From what I've seen, the titanium ones deform easier than the other 2. Titanium cylinders are tough, but not very hard.
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It doesn't matter. They will both get deformed with enough rounds. Then you peen the material back where it came from and start over. You can do this many times. I shoot all stainless guns for matches that get many thousands of rounds a year. I have never had to retire a cylinder yet for notch wear.
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They are fairly equal, but the stainless steel is a little softer than the carbon steel.
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I could write a book about this, but it would be way better to schedule a time to come to the shop where I can show you how it all works. Bring a new hand and stop. Yes, you can buy old guns and cheaply fix them on your own, armed with the knowledge of what to do. Plus, you can always call if you have a question.
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The first thing to do is put the cylinder in the lathe with a dial indicator on the front face. Turn the lathe chuck (with cylinder) by hand and see if it has runout and how much.
If it needs to be faced off, it is then a simple matter to put in a cutting tool and skim it square. This is not an operation for anything hand held. You will just ruin the cylinder that way. A lot of cylinders come from the factory with the face at a slight angle, some more than others. The one in the picture looks like a lot. If you leave it at an angle, and make more cylinder gap, it's likely to get dirty from the chambers with a wide gap and bind on the chambers with less gap.
If you want, send it to me and I'll face it off properly the minimum amount to make it square.
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I've only been shooting it since 1993. Been selling Stick Shifts and other accessories there since 1995. It's cool to see how it started out.
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Could be a bad transmogrifier bearing...
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It's not the sear engagement, or it would do it all the time. This sounds more like crud building up somewhere from the firing process. Maybe lead building up between the cylinder and forcing cone, or carbon between the crane and cylinder, debris under the extractor, that sort of thing. Make sure the endshake is no more than .001, cylinder gap is .006 or more, clean the yoke barrel, etc.
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Hi guys-
I've been trying unsuccessfully to clear out my inbox. MWP - I sent you a PM, but don't know if it actually was sent or not. Now I can't send any more messages till I get this mess cleared up. If you want to call, my shop phone is 913-422-8966.
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I don't get why we needed a new rule book to begin with. Everyone was fine with the rules that were in place. If these rules are implemented, I can foresee a lot of unhappy campers. A lot of people may just quit or move to a different shooting sport.
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You might check the cylinder stop spring. The cylinder stop has a slot instead of a hole for it's pivot point. If the spring is bent or kinked, at a certain rotation it could be making the cylinder stop crooked, which in turn, could make the stop catch on top of the trigger as the trigger tries to pull it down. From the evidence presented, that's my first guess. I've never heard of this before, so kind of hard to know without the gun on the bench. I'm pretty sure it's not from heat. I've never had a revolver get hot enough to expand the metal any noticeable amount. I've had them hot enough to burn your hand on the barrel.
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If I don't get a reshoot, I just threaten to shoot another hostage...
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A friend recently got a new one. Straight from the box it had a 16 lb. trigger pull. Not my idea of Performance Center performance.
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I agree. Really bad.
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The .38 and .357 are the same. The 9mm is .355, .38/357 is .357.
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They originally started out with a .355 barrel, but soon switched to a .357, seems to be the general consensus. Probably so barrel sizes don't get mixed up in production when there's only 1 (.357) to choose from.
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I've been shooting 231/HP38 with 160 gr. bullets for a few years now, in 38 Short Colt in my 627s with great results. These powders leave a lot of granular trash in the gun until you get up to a certain pressure level, then they burn well, leaving only thin brown soot. I'm running 4 gr. of powder. For a lighter bullet, like 147, you will want to go up a little, maybe to 4.3 or 4.5. Anything between 4 and 5 grains will work, the 4.0 in my guns will knock down all the steel targets reliably with fairly low recoil. I have shot a lot of Bayou Bullets and like them a lot.
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That is the way to do it, folks. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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There has been, off and on over the years, depending on who was running the match.
627 Problems
in Revolver Forum
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Times are tough all over...