Toolguy
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Posts posted by Toolguy
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Cylinder and Slide has them.
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The liability is the one issue that stopped me from working on guns, except my own of course and one close friend.
Just remember, the guy could your best friend, but if something goes wrong that can even remotely be tied back to you, that won't stop the lawsuits. For example, you do a nice trigger job for a friend (never mind a paying customer!), and he drops the gun at home causing it to discharge, shooting the neighbors' dog (or worse). Do you think he will be a good enough friend to not mention the fact that you worked on his gun when some lawyer has him on the stand in a lawsuit?
I'm not trying to steer you away from your dream, just pointing out the value of insurance (and no, I do not sell insurance!).
FWIW, My homeowners insurance refused to renew my insurance when they found out I had a FFL and was a gun dealer.
Your best friend may not want to sue you, but, his insurance carrier will. Lawsuits are pretty much name everybody and let (somebody) sort them out
Too many damn bottom feeding revolver shooting Lawyers
Lawyers shoot bottomfeeders (birds of a feather thing) and sue revolver shooters.
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Had a squib load at the range today in my Model 14. I had one on my last range trip with a 1911, got the bullet out just fine, but with the revolver I can't figure out exactly how to hold the gun while I push the bullet out with the rod. For the 1911, I took it to a local gun shop and the guy did it for me, but he took the barrel out and stood it up on a bench in order to keep it still while pushing out the bullet.
Can you help a brother out?
I made a tool out of 5/16 dia. x 8 in. long brass rod and 3/4 dia. x 4 in. long brass rod. Drilled a 5/16 hole 1/2 inch deep 2 in. from one
end of the 3/4 rod and pressed the 5/16 rod in the hole. Keep in range bag. This tool will knock out a stuck bullet in seconds, slide
hammer style, and never damage the hand or the bore. This one has a groove and number every inch on the 5/16 part to show
where the end is in different length barrels. It is cheap enough to make and one will last forever.
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damnit, I am going to have to sell a garand and get a damn revovler already. I am getting tired of reading about everyone else's experiences and all mine amounts to is a colt mkIII trooper with a snub nose and a 686 8 3/8 tha tI cannot find a holster to fit...
UHG
You could keep your Garand and change out the barrel on the 686 to a 6".
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You can definitely make a small fortune gunsmithing revolvers.
Step 1: Start with a *large* fortune.
Step 2: Begin a Gunsmithing business.
All done!
That is more truth than fiction!
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i'm sure S&W has thought of the torque thing when they crank them down. it's gotta change the values under the threads. wonder if they ream that forcing cone after to counter-act it? i've used JB Weld too, comes loose w/ just a little propane, put ar-15 comps on with it. gonna try all this soon, you guys gotta help.....
They don't do anything to counteract it. However, the barrel does spring back to normal when removed from the frame. They did a few
guns Dan Wesson-style with a sleeve barrel and nut on the front as a corrective measure. The best way for the average person (can't
say "guy" anymore) to deal with this is power lapping. Done properly, it can help a lot on a gun with this problem.
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Good post, Toolguy.
Thanks Mike. That's a very fine compliment coming from someone of your skill and expertise.
I suspect we will see some comments about that last part, though. I saw the Carmonkey thread from your "buddies".
It was hilarious! I don't know all the players here, but it appears that you were imp-licated in some small way...
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How about installing a pin through the barrel and frame, as in the old days? Wasn't the whole purpose of the pin to keep the barrel from rotating? Or is that not as easy a process as it sounds?
Dave Sinko
The pinned barrel isn't what everyone thinks. They just made a groove across the threads ahead of time, screwed the barrel on and stuck the
pin in. The barrel could still turn 5 or 10 degrees with the pin in if it were not for the crush fit where the barrel is hand tight at about 1 o'clock
(looking from the rear). Speaking of crush fit, that actually squeezes the bore down where it goes thru the frame from .0005 to as much as
.002 depending on how many degrees the front sight was off vertical to begin with. You can check this with guage pins by sliding them down
the barrel until you find one small enough to come out of the forcing cone area. This constriction degrades accuracy and contributes to leading.
When I fit a barrel, I make it to turn up vertical by firmly hand tightening. Red loctite keeps it in place. I have never had one come undone
of it's own accord even on the hottest day or with the hottest magnum. This way the barrel is the same diameter all the way through. It takes
350 degrees of heat to overcome the loctite. Properly done, this will not damage the blueing or the heat treat of the metal. You can tell when
you are at the right heat when you start to smell the loctite and/or there is a wisp of smoke coming off that area. Do not keep heating
after this point. My 2 cents.
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Cylinder and Slide has new front AND rear fiber optic sights for S&W revolvers. They are good square notch and post target sights
with fiber optic front and rear. I have tried all the color combinations. For my vision the green rear and orange front work the best.
Sights are a personal preference thing, but I would always advise a shooter to avoid anything on the rear sight (fiber optics, colored paint, white outlines, etc.) that might draw one's visual focus away from the front blade where it belongs.
I have always had a hard time with black target sights on a black target or going between targets (plates, pins, etc.) the sights disappear into
the background and it is very difficult to sort them out again after each shot. Now that I'm getting older and the eyes are changing, it's worse.
For years the orange front and white outline rear was the only way I could keep up with the pack. I shoot with several people who have no
problem at all with all black sights, which I think are the best choice for accurate shooting if you can see what you're doing. I had to drop out
of shooting matches altogether for a couple of years until I got these fiber optic sights. Now I am upgrading my skill level again and am almost
back where I was a few years ago. Also, I have found (for me) that focusing on the rear instead of the front makes both sights more in focus
and well defined and I can shoot higher scores that way. Plus it helps keep me from looking downrange at the target, and concentrate on the
alignment of front to rear sights. The target is a little out of focus, but not too much. With the fiber optics front and rear, I know where the
sights are every second and there is no more hunting for them after every shot. With all due respect - All the Best- Toolguy
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I am wanting to put a fiber optic sight on my 686. I looked at the SDM, but it looks a tad too long. For those who have them an their 686, what do you have, how do you like them, and did you need to replace the rear sight as well and, if so, to what?
Cylinder and Slide has new front AND rear fiber optic sights for S&W revolvers. They are good square notch and post target sights
with fiber optic front and rear. I have tried all the color combinations. For my vision the green rear and orange front work the best.
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that's my question......if i can just get by the peanut gallery, and i know around here that ain't easy. how do you take that ledge out???? i guess you'd have to grind a custom endmill w/ the angle you want. i think i can do that, but what angle??
I ream out the ledges in mine with a .45 Long Colt reamer. Loads great, shoots accurate.
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There are new fiber optic sights for S&W revolver at Cylinder and Slide. They have front f/o pin-on and Classic in .250 and .300 tall, patridge
or improved ramp and f/o rear .160 tall that goes in place of the original blade. I have them on 5 guns and really like them. This is the 625
with a .300 front. You can see in the pic there is about 1/2 of the adjustment left to go up or down. One more option. Best Regards - Toolguy
Edited to remove quoted post.
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Grant and Helen Jeavons have a couple of prototype shrouds that seem to be working out
fairly well. One of the main features of these is the ease of disassembly for cleaning.
Everything comes out the front very easily without disturbing the shroud itself. Grant shot
his in the last Bianchi Cup, Helen took hers to the World Cup. Rumor has it that there may be a similar setup in the future for full length dust cover frames if there is enough interest.
My 610 has a problem
in Revolver Forum
Posted
You might look at the top of the cylinder bolt right behind the part that engages the notch. There is a step running the width of the bolt that is
higher than the rest of the top surface. That part determines how far up the bolt can go into the notch. You can file some off of the step to
allow the bolt to sit up higher. If you do that, you have to make sure that it doesn't go up too high or the front part of the trigger can't reset
for the next pull. Also, make sure to have a full length bolt spring (not cut off). Check the top crown on the bolt to see that it hasn't got a flat
worn on it by the cylinder. It's very unlikely that you would need a new cylinder, maybe a new bolt or spring.