BradNC

I don't blame you. It's taken a long time to get my TP9SFx into good usable shape. Canik had installed a poor striker and plunger and trigger bar and I only found this out by replacing them on a whim, after which it's a whole new gun. There's no excuse for that, so I would not repeat the adventure. I don't want to be negative, but there are other options in the market.

UPDATE: Ameriglo replaced my failed Haven totally free of charge. It took 2+ weeks all said and done from my shipping it to receiving a new one back. Not too bad. The new one is just that, a new one. If it fails I have about 2 more years of warrantee coverage on it. If this one fails I'll go elsewhere next time I buy, but until then I still like it as it meets my needs OK and has held zero well during my use at a range with 9mm basic and +P ammo.

You could spend a lifetime tuning that rig! Sprinco provides at most 3 combinations. I use two (my lighter ammo and heavier ammo, with some tolerance if you only use either spring across all ammo), controlled by changing the main recoil spring. Good luck understanding the nuances of 8 different settings!

UPDATE: My Haven failed last week at the range. It seemed to be eating batteries lately (dot goes away, new battery install fixes it, repeat as needed). But last week it died one day after I put in a new battery. It died at the range, turning on/off erratically. I asked Ameriglo for an RMA and they gave me that quickly, but now I'm waiting on a shipping label.

Keep a watch on it and let us know if it happens again. The mag being installed might be pushing the trigger bar sideways, and you can't see that easily, except maybe from above with the slide removed? I can't see how the trigger bar gets scuffed near the plunger other than the plunger. This is unusual, so interesting education for all.

Lots of folks have had very similar experiences with stock TP9SFx's. The typical approach is to shoot higher power ammo for a while to "loosen" (break-in) the stock recoil spring. Mine worked OK after about 3-4 boxes of 124gr Norma or Sellier&Bellot (~380ft-lb)...generally the slightly higher power stuff than 115gr WWB, and certainly higher power than 115gr Blazer. (Which I won't buy because I don't like 335ft-lb ammo if I can use higher power stuff. I "warm up" using 335ft-lb stuff then use 360-400ft-lb for the main session, but that's just my preference.) So keep shooting it using more powerful ammo if possible. I bet it'll work fine pretty soon.

I'm not 100% sure since the pic is confusing to me, but it looks like the trigger bar is not riding on top of the safety plunger, but rather to its outside. I notice in my TP9SFx that the trigger bar does not contact the plunger on its center, but rather off to one side. It looks like in your case the trigger bar is to the side of the plunger and that's why it has all that metal worn away on the bump you show. You can see this problem in action if you put the slide on, rack the slide to cock the assembly, then look through the mag channel with a flashlight (no mag in place of course). You'll be able to see the interaction there as you pull the trigger. (I'm not too impressed with how in my TP9SFx specimen the trigger bar does not ride the plunger surface centrally as you'd think would be best.)

I would have been surprised if the 4lb had worked. I'm using 6lb and it's 100% across my ammo types, but I would not go lighter.

Way cool if it works as advertised. It makes sense that it's only possible to put a coil-over shock into a pistol at this time since it (probably) requires very precise manufacturing to make a very small, tuned shock. So designers up to now probably couldn't use the idea is maybe why we have only had simple springs till now (but maybe simpler is better...).

I'm surprised you don't feel much difference with the lighter spring setup you have (I have never tried a 4lb striker spring - 6lb is my limit!!!). Have you done the polishing procedure to the safety plunger and the trigger bar, to get them to slide more smoothly across their contact surfaces? If there's a lot of frication/drag in those sliding areas that friction might be the primary thing you feel, so lighter springs won't make as much difference. It's just a thought based on my TP9SFx experience (and Weapon here knows all about this stuff, so find his posts for more info). I'm pretty happy with my trigger pull after lots of polishing, the lighter Galloway safety plunger spring and a 6-7lb striker spring. (Is the trigger award-winning at this point? I don't think so because in my TP9SFx specimen I still have some inconsistency in trigger "steps" as I move to the wall, plus my wall-to-release is a little inconsistent, but I think I've taken this Canik as far as it can go, so I quit trying to improve the trigger - "it is what it is" as they say.)

I like the grip texture change Canik has on this. (That's a "gripe" I've had for a long time.) I like it surface-feature wise, except for the compensator (which is the point of the TTI model!) that I don't need. It'll be interesting to see if it suffers from the RIval-S "consistency" issues.

I hate to admit it here, but personally, I don't like the styling of the Rivals compared to the TP9&METE SFx era. Too many cuts and angles for me. I know I'm "out of style" compared to others here, and I get the reasons for the Rival shape angles, but I don't like them at all. In fact, I find the Rivals unpleasant to look at. Add to the appearance of the Rivals all the issues the -S version has and it looks to me like Canik has been following the styling fairies instead of engineering & manufacturing considerations. But they have their drummers they listen to, and it's working somewhat for them in terms of gaining a following as evidenced by folks here that buy lots of them. So in many ways they're taking some good steps for their future. I'll very probably not buy Canik again because I won't buy something I don't like to look at, and I've had enough debugging with my specimen of the TP9SFx, but they're checking lots of feature boxes for lots of folks. Who knows, maybe they'll build a steel-framed version that's not styled like a MadMax movie prop, in which case I'll get interested. (Sorry if I've stepped on toes here by babbling against the popular recent models.)

Lots of times these days products are essentially designed by marketing folks. They decide on features&functions, then engineers build to that. Marketing folks follow trends, etc, to maximize revenues... (Some might lead trends, but lots follow.) Well, maybe "marketing folks" are not literally trained marketeers; "product managers" might be a better phrase, but product managers are often not engineers, they're more following and analyzing trends in the market, so to me they're marketing folks...sorry for my rash descriptions here.

In my TP9SFx (and I use the Freedomsmith trigger, so we're "on the same page" as folks like to say) I've been using the Galloway (lighter) safety plunger spring for 1-2 years (I forget). I also tried their lighter trigger tension spring, but for me it made the trigger too light, so I went back to the stock Canik trigger spring. The Galloway trigger spring produced the expected result, a reduced tension trigger pull. But I don't have any measurements, I just go by how I like the results. Have you also installed and tested a lighter striker spring (a 6-7lb striker spring from a Glock or other products)? (FYI, I use the Sprinco recoil spring system in my rig to achieve a lighter than factory setup overall - and this is why the Galloway trigger spring was too light for me I think - with no downside that I or others can report.) All these springs can be inter-related, so you'll want to study what others have reported to understand the best things for you to do.

I bought mine in approx Oct 2020 from BassPro. But it could be a specimen that was produced before that and was laying around, I don't know. The reason I suspect mine is older is that it was plagued with the inability to use lighter striker springs that others were benefitting from (and lighter recoils springs that require the lighter striker spring to work, etc) -- until I replaced the original striker assembly. In its stock configuration it worked fine after break-in, it was just that it could not be ungraded with lighter/appropriate recoil springs (e.g., the Sprinco recoils spring system, etc). Plus it had a lot of slide-to-frame slop that others didn't seem to mention. All added together I think it is an older specimen. (Don't know if you saw another post of mine recently, but I bought a new TP9SFx fluted&threaded barrel from Canik that I had to file to fit correctly in my slide...)