Connector How To Identify W/out Trigger Bar?

[InTheBlack]

Finally got around to polishing my trigger group. Didn't seem to make much difference. I noticed that the trigger bar assembly has a + stamped on it; and it is heaver than another, unpolished gun with nothing stamped on the trigger bar.

But I'm confused by the fact that everyone says that the connector has the + or - stamp on it, when clearly it is the trigger bar that bears the stamp. This certainly works when Glock assembles all the parts, but on used guns how do you know what connector is actually there?

What is the visual difference in the actual _connector_?

When you buy an aftermarket "connector" do they actually give you a connector AND a trigger bar?

Are the connectors and trigger bars interchangeable between 9mm and 40SW models of the same frame size? Of different frame sizes?

[Fireglock]

While the trigger bars may be slightly different that's not how Glock adjust the pull. The markings that you refer to are on the connector which is generally the only part that needs to be changed. I have a photo but no way to post it, it shows the three connectors available from Glock, the + 8#, the plain 5# and the - 3.5#. The 19-23-17-22-26-27-34-35-24 trigger bars are all interchangable. The 20-21-29-30 can be interchanged. The 36 has a different trigger bar and I have been told, haven't actually looked at mine, the 37 has it's own trigger bar. Right off the top of my head I don't know why your trigger bar would have a + stamped on it.

Edited November 29, 2003 by Flexmoney

[Custom Glock Racing]

There are a few trigger bars with a +. They are for fixing engagement problems on very early G19s.

[InTheBlack]

Good to know. What's dimensionally different about the + trigger bar? Engagement of what where?

[Fireglock]

The firing pin to trigger bar engagement. What model are you playing with?

[Custom Glock Racing]

That tab at the back of the trigger bar that engages the firing pin tang is taller.

[InTheBlack]

Taller eh?

Now does the guy who did the Dremeling the Glock article who tightens the slide by peening the slots tighter end up with the same effect as a + trigger bar, or is peening a better solution than a taller engagement tab?

Why risk peening when you could just buy a + trigger bar?

I polished a G19, but the "used" trigger pull on a G23 is lighter and maybe feels less mushy. Or more like a takeup and break; whereas the polished G19 is closer to a being a continuous pull, getting heavier as it goes back.

I'm gonna be getting a 3.5# connector while they are on sale just to play with. Want the NY#1 spring too, just to try that combination.

[Custom Glock Racing]

There is no need to peen slide rails or use a + trigger bar if you do a trigger job right in the first place.

[EricW]

BTW, Glock recommends that the + connector NOT be used in conjunction with the NY1 spring.

Being an infidel, I use the - connector with the NY1 spring and like it. It's a good balance for a dual duty, carry/comp pistol.

[InTheBlack]

OK, got the - connector.

Need to order the NY 4lb spring from a different source

I don't see any difference between Dremel polished fire controls and non polished.

First of all, when people report the trigger weight, do they report the pull at the point of greatest mechanical advantage- which is repeatable, since its at the end of the trigger- or do they put the scale at whatever they figure is the place where the pad of the finger goes? Which is a tough area not to slip away from while pulling the scale.

Seems to me the ratio between the max leverage point and any other point should be constant. Anyone measure this? I'd guess if you measure the lightest break weight at the tip of the trigger, add 1/3 for the break weight under the pad of the finger.

I tried to measure at the finger pad location:

A stock but well used G23 has a pull of about 5 1/2 lbs. It has no creep after the set point, and the break is clean, not mushy. It feels a bit heavier because of the clean break but is for the same reason much better than...

A stock but well used G23 with everything Dremel polished. It also measures about 5 1/2 lbs. Some creep & mush.

Swapping slides didn't change the feel of the trigger.

Then there is a G19 with the + trigger bar, Dremel polished and now with the - connector. It measures something less than 4 lb 14 oz. At max leverage, 3 lbs. Lots of creep and mushy break. But if you treat it as a continuous pull-through DA action, its actually pretty good, except that since it is initially so light, I'm not used to staging my finger on it. I don't think changing the standard connector for the minus changed the creep or mushiness, just the break weight. Have to re-install and feel it to see for sure.

Which engagement surfaces are responsible for creep, and which for the "mushy" release?

I can see different wear patterns on the top surface of the crescent shaped area of the trigger bars, and on the tip which engages the firing pin. I suppose the upwards angle of that tip is a critical dimension; does anyone bend it up and then stone it down to get a crisper break?

How about stoning the front face of the firing pin tab so it is vertical and has a square bottom front edge?

I'm afraid I don't see how the connector has a major effect on trigger pull. All I see is the firing pin spring pushing forwards against the tip of the crescent area, and pulling back against that pressure until I guess there is a downwards movement and they slip past one another.

I see how the connector bar moves laterally, pushed inwards by the rail on the slide to prevent trigger pull if the slide is not forwards.

This G23 crescent area has two rather shallow parallel scribe marks or lines, like "||" and I don't see how they are wear marks or scratches since they are perpendicular to the movement of the slide. Is there a "double minus" trigger bar?

The stock G23 has a perceptible "whack" after the trigger breaks, and you can see the muzzle wobble when looking at the sights. The G19 has hardly any. Is this due to a different trigger spring weight?