JThompson Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 I don't have any pressure on the tang at all right now... the pre is frame to bow contact. By "staking'" do you mean to close the disconnector hole up a bit or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 I don't have any pressure on the tang at all right now... the pre is frame to bow contact. By "staking'" do you mean to close the disconnector hole up a bit or what? Yes. (little trade secret) As you push the trigger there is a little bit of motion as the disconnector "tip" moves forward. Stake it from the rear to increase pre-travel, or from the front to decrease it. Need to be careful not to block disconnector travel hole though. This can remove some trigger travel slopiness. Do your mags pass through your trigger bow without dragging ? If they drag it is an indication that your bow has been squeezed, elongating it. If this is the case then open the bow sideways a little bit, and this will actually shorten your overall bow length. Make sure also the bow's back is straight and not concave/round. Use your common sense as you reshape your trigger bow to fit. Once the trigger is properly fitted and working, then go ahead and play with your set screw. Also check the correlation of your grip safety trigger stop arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 (edited) I think the staking is above my pay grade at the moment, but it's good to know what you mean and as I learn, I might have a use for it. The mags do not drag, but the back of the bow IS slightly concave. What are the consequences of having it slightly concave, or slight convex for that matter... Thanks I don't have any pressure on the tang at all right now... the pre is frame to bow contact. By "staking'" do you mean to close the disconnector hole up a bit or what? Yes. (little trade secret) As you push the trigger there is a little bit of motion as the disconnector "tip" moves forward. Stake it from the rear to increase pre-travel, or from the front to decrease it. Need to be careful not to block disconnector travel hole though. This can remove some trigger travel slopiness. Do your mags pass through your trigger bow without dragging ? If they drag it is an indication that your bow has been squeezed, elongating it. If this is the case then open the bow sideways a little bit, and this will actually shorten your overall bow length. Make sure also the bow's back is straight and not concave/round. Use your common sense as you reshape your trigger bow to fit. Once the trigger is properly fitted and working, then go ahead and play with your set screw. Also check the correlation of your grip safety trigger stop arm. Edited January 26, 2009 by JThompson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvb Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 ... the back of the bow IS slightly concave. What are the consequences of having it slightly concave, or slight convex for that matter... Sorry for forgetting to reply for a couple days... The back of the sv trigger that was giving me problems was slightly convex. That added to it's over-all length as far as the disconnector was concerned. Like I said I didn't bother to attempt to fix, I wanted a different trigger anyway..... -rvb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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