hugh Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 I find this to be a useful drill: Load a mag with five rounds,charge your pistol and remove the mag. I normally do this drill at 25 on an USPSA target Off the clock,raise and fire your gun,watching the sight lift Reset the trigger and dryfire as soon as you can see proper alignment Lather,rinse, repeat What I see on the "Snap" includes:Poor trigger control,flinching/anticipation,unnecessary tension and inputs on grip pressure,and visual impatience. All are masked by the shot cycle and minimized during regular dryfire.The first live round acts to keep you honest about shot calls,and your nervous system expects a second"Bang". I'll do five reps and tape the target. Variations Add the draw and see grip inconsistencies recorded on the first shot Go on the clock.I'll set known pars for the first shot(i.e.,1.75 at 25)and shoot that pace.This distracts the mind on the Snap. Move into a shooting position and see how consistent your position is-recorded on paper and observed on the Snap HTH, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay870 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 Sounds like a good one to me. I'm going to give it try at my next live fire session. How many 5-rep sets do you typically do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Typically,I'll introduce a variation (draw,par,range etc.)after each set.I find this keeps my attention level where it needs to be,i.e.,I'm not shooting on autopilot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Couple questions Does your slide lock back??? What type of gun are you using?? Your allowing the slide to drop on an empty chamber?? It's not a good idea to do this very much on a 1911 type pistol. When the brass is ejected and the slide slams forward on a empty chamber. This causes the hammer and sear to bounce and can ruin a trigger job. Maybe someone with a little more info can speak up. Flyin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann the Horrible Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Never thought about that. I think you can just load a live and then a dummy round if that worries you that much. As far as I have seen the 1911 is a fairly robust gun that is not prone to breakages of any type, personally I would not worry too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Here ya go Here I know there is more info but don't have the time right now to search Flyin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Another way to do this drill is have a buddy load mags for you and throw in a dummy round somewhere in the mag. Kinda the same thing. Flyin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Di Vita Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Another way to do this drill is have a buddy load mags for you and throw in a dummy round somewhere in the mag. Kinda the same thing. Only problem with this drill is that you can't distinguish between the movement being a flinch and compensating for recoil. A flinch happens before the bullet leaves the barrel and compensating for recoil happens after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyin40 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 (edited) Another way to do this drill is have a buddy load mags for you and throw in a dummy round somewhere in the mag. Kinda the same thing. Only problem with this drill is that you can't distinguish between the movement being a flinch and compensating for recoil. A flinch happens before the bullet leaves the barrel and compensating for recoil happens after. Yep, its the same for his drill. I used the dummy round in the mag when I was first starting. I had the white knuckle death grip on the gun problem. I only had to do it a few times for a couple of sessions before I started relaxing my grip. My trigger finger could hardly move freely sometimes because I was gripping so hard with my strong hand. Flyin Edited April 8, 2008 by Flyin40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 Couple questionsDoes your slide lock back??? What type of gun are you using?? Your allowing the slide to drop on an empty chamber?? It's not a good idea to do this very much on a 1911 type pistol. When the brass is ejected and the slide slams forward on a empty chamber. This causes the hammer and sear to bounce and can ruin a trigger job. Maybe someone with a little more info can speak up. Flyin I use a Glock,slide does not lock back. I would think that the recoil cycle would be over before you released the trigger,thereby protecting the sear. Jake,I differentiate between flinch and post ignition push by paying attention to front sight dip...trigger jerk/anticipation tends to cause the front sight to dip out of alignment. P.I.P. otoh,tends to keep sight alignment while moving the gun as a unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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