Newbie rifle reloading questions

[elenius]

I'm searching out all the old threads about reloading rifle rounds, which I've never done before. I've learned a lot, but I'm still not clear on a couple of things.

I'm going to use my 550.

First, as the topic says, which tools are good for uniforming the primer pocket and deburring the flash hole? Is this already done on the "100% prepared" brass from Top Brass?

Secondly, I'll describe how I *think* I should do things, and you can stop me where I'm wrong

I have this list of stuff to get:

- Dillon carbide 3-die set

- Dillon caliber conversion (and toolhead, stand)

- Dillon super swage

The die setup will be the usual:

Sizing/depriming/priming on station 1

Powder on station 2

Seating on station 3

Crimping on station 4

Supposing I have unprepped military brass, my understanding is that the necessary steps are:

1) Depriming and sizing

2) Cleaning

3) Reaming or swaging the primer pocket

4) Deburring the flash hole and uniforming the primer pocket

5) Trimming to length

6) Chamfering the case mouth inside and out

7) Prime, powder drop, seat, crimp

So this means each round goes in the press twice: At step (1), and then again at step (7).

But this means each round will also be sized twice, both during the initial depriming and then again during the actual loading. Is this ok? I.e. does the second sizing in effect do nothing because the case is already sized? Or do I have to take out this die before I start loading up the ammo?

[John Dunn]

What are you reloading for? For a precision gun I'd go with Redding dies, at least their competition seater. If you aren't loading precision stuff, no way would I bother with flash hole deburring or primer pocket uniforming. I think Brownell's just bought out Sinclair, so I would check there for tools.

Do not resize twice, it just works the case unnecessarily. You can remove the sizing die or back it out to where the decapping pin doesn't make contact.

[EricW]

For a precision gun I'd go with Redding dies, at least their competition seater.

+1

I wish Brian could work something out for all new Dillon purchasers where the seating die is Redding by default. There is absolutely no comparison between the Redding die and everything else on planet earth. I can't believe I went without them for so long.

[elenius]

What are you reloading for? For a precision gun I'd go with Redding dies, at least their competition seater. If you aren't loading precision stuff, no way would I bother with flash hole deburring or primer pocket uniforming. I think Brownell's just bought out Sinclair, so I would check there for tools.

Do not resize twice, it just works the case unnecessarily. You can remove the sizing die or back it out to where the decapping pin doesn't make contact.

Hmm, seems like a big hassle to remove the die every time and then re-adjust it. I suppose I could get an extra toolhead for just the sizing die, and put the other three dies on another toolhead.

Or, if I go with Top brass prepped cases, how about just priming in step (1) above? Is it ok to tumble clean and trim/chamfer primed cases? I could then feed them into station (2) directly when it's time to load them up.

[John Dunn]

If your dies have lock rings with set screws, you don't have to readjust. Just screw it out/screw it in. I'd find disconnecting and reconnecting the powder safety bar (or whatever its proper name is) more of a pain.

Trimming primed cases is fine. I tumble loaded rounds, haven't primed cases. Don't think it would be much of an issue.

[elenius]

If your dies have lock rings with set screws, you don't have to readjust. Just screw it out/screw it in. I'd find disconnecting and reconnecting the powder safety bar (or whatever its proper name is) more of a pain.

Trimming primed cases is fine. I tumble loaded rounds, haven't primed cases. Don't think it would be much of an issue.

Hmm, I'm looking at my dillon depriming/sizing dies for my handgun calibers, and I don't see what you mean. What kind of dies have the "lock rings with set screws"?

Then I realized I don't have to size and deprime before I clean, so I think I could do this (if I use the prepared brass):

1) Clean

2) Deprime, size, prime

3) Trim and chamfer

4) Powder, seating, crimp (feeding from station 2)

Right? Any problems with this approach? Or is this a "duh!" moment?

[John Dunn]

My Dillon dies don't have set screws, either. My Reddings do. It's just a little Allen screw that crimps down on the die threads so the lock ring doesn't turn.

I think it is the Forstner dies that have a split lock ring where the set screw applies a clamping action rather than impinging directly on the die threads. I think I read about this stuff in one of Tubb's books, could have been someplace on the web.

I'd:

1) Clean

2)Spray Lube

3)Resize and deprime (I do a lot on a single stage press, the slick way is on a press with auto casefeed with the other stations empty.)

4)Reclean/tumble brass and trim

5)Prime and load

6)Shoot

I think Dillon's Blue Press had an article a while abo about a Highpower team that was doing volume reloading on progressives. It is worth a read if you can find it .

[EricW]

1) Clean

2) Deprime, size, prime

3) Trim and chamfer

4) Powder, seating, crimp (feeding from station 2)

Try:

1) Clean

2) Deprime, size,

3) Trim and chamfer

4) Load as usual

I never reconfigure my press for pre-trim sizing, because I'm a heretic.

If you prime *after* trimming, you reduce the chance of having brass shavings in the flash holes after trimming. This is a very real possibility if you're really shaving down the brass during trimming. I actually run my trimmed brass through the sizer again - and I realize that this works the brass more than necessary - but it ensures I have clean flash holes before priming.

FWIW....

Edited July 16, 2007 by EricW

[elenius]

If you prime *after* trimming, you reduce the chance of having brass shavings in the flash holes after trimming. This is a very real possibility if you're really shaving down the brass during trimming. I actually run my trimmed brass through the sizer again - and I realize that this works the brass more than necessary - but it ensures I have clean flash holes before priming.

FWIW....

Aha, that's good to know!

John, what is the reason to clean twice? Is it necessary to get the lube off?

Edited July 16, 2007 by elenius

[John Dunn]

I tumble again to get the case lube off.