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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Old School Wheelgunners?


Glock_Master

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I recently purchased a Smith 581, with the intent to enter the SSR catagory. Question is, how many folks out there use an old school wheel gun? You know, the old Mod 10's and police positive specials?

I have the tricked out stuff already for ESP, SSP....so on, but thought about stepping back to a real challenge like using an older model wheelgun in the stock class.

How many folks use an older model gun in IDPA now? Any draw backs? (keep in mind this gun would be for fun not really to become a Master with)

Would there be any potential drawbacks to using an old time gun like the 581? Is the hot setup now to use a 357 frame and shoot .38+p's?

Any info, insight, suggestions and comments would be helpfull. (Since they don't make a book called "Wheelgun for Dummies")

GM-

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:huh: I shoot a model 10 M&P and a model 66 38/357, along with others. I do not recommend using +P in the model 10. I blew out the cylinder. Even with my model 66 which is advertized as 38/357 I have been told by many people not to shoot 357 in competion because of the countinous large round counts. They say the gun is great for casual 357 shooting but not for IDPA or IPSC use. GOOD LUCK. ;)
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Just about everybody on this forum has one, but I'm one of the few who actually shoot one in competition. A HUGE exception to the preceding statement is Bill Nesbitt, who made Master in SSR shooting a 3" M10.

I have a 681, the stainless version of your 581, and I've used it in SSR and classified in ESR with it (using .357 ammo). Using .38s in your 581 is fine - the thing hardly moves when the hammer drops.

My main SSR gun is a 4" M10 tuned at the factory. The action is smooth, but not that light, and is good for carry as well. It shoots exactly to the top of the front sight.

You'll rarely see a Colt in SSR, since S&Ws pretty much rule the roost there. I have shot my Official Police in a match once, and probably will again. The guns certainly shoot well enough, but if they break, they become paperweights - parts and 'smiths for them are few and far between.

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So typically with these types of older guns, folks use 38+p?

I assumed that is how it would work the best, shoot a .38+p round from a .357 capable gun. (I have no plans to shoot .357 rounds all day, OUCH)

Now, another question, does a typical factory .38 +p make power factor for IDPA, or are guys charging the rounds up a bit to make the power factor?

I see above you classified with the 681 in ESR, does that mean I could classify in ESR with my 581? Was mine and yous made to be used with moon clips? (Or did you not use moon clips to classify?) Is it just a matter of having the cylider setup for use with moon clips, or did the gun need to come factory made to support moon clips? (Meaning could I have my cylider setup for moon clips or would that not be allowed since it would be an after market change to the guns configuration)

Thanks much for the info! Keep it comin'

-GM

Edited by Glock_Master
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If you want to shoot factory, about the only stuff that makes the PF is the 158 grain LSWC-HP defensive ammo, S&B 158 grain RNL, and Fiocchi 158 grain FMJ. The S&B usually runs $7-8/box, and would be my choice.

For handloads, 158 grain RN bullets are the norm. Lead makes the PF with Winchester's standard pressure load of 4.5 grains of 231 under a 158 RNL; using a Berry's 158 grain RN takes the +P load of 4.7 grains.

I'm using a load now for USPSA shooting using 4.3 grains of American Select under a 150 grain MasterBlaster's polymer coated RNL and it goes 945 fps from my 6" M14; it ought to stay above 834 fps (125 PF) from a 4" gun. This is a standard pressure load. If it makes the PF from a 4" gun, I'll probably standardize on it for everything.

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I shot a 4" nickeled M-19 at the S&W Nationals last year. Cor-bon Perfromance .38 spl passed muster as IDPA ammo there.

To shoot in SSR, you can't use moon clips, you have to use speedloaders.

The older guns were meant for .38 as a steady diet, with occasional .357 Magnum use. Shooting IDPA-level ammo through a K frame should be a "years between overhauls" proposition. You're more likely to throw it out of time dry-firing it than the hammering .38s will give it. The L frames (the 581, 681, 586, 686, et al) were meant as full-time .357 guns. You'd have to shoot and dry fire like Jerry himself to beat one of those up.

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