elenius Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I started tinkering with my glock: I did the $0.25 trigger job, plus reduced power striking and trigger springs and stock 3.5# connector, all from glockmeister. The trigger is much much nicer indeed! I have a problem though. If I pull the trigger half-way, and then release it, it does not always reset to its original position, with the safety enabled. Sometimes it gets stuck in the half-pressed position, with the middle part of the trigger still pushed in enough to disable the safety. Not sure if I caused this with my amateurish tinkering, but I guess it's pretty likely... How can I fix this/what did I do wrong? I'm guessing that my polishing created an edge somewhere where something gets stuck instead of sliding off like it's supposed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 This is pretty common with reduced power striker springs and other spring tinkering. Did you put in a Glockmeister extra power trigger spring? If you did try putting the stock trigger spring back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 When I added the RS drop in kit to my G34, it had the same problem. After dryfiring for about a week, it completely went away. It sounds like you've done everything correctly...just put some miles on your new setup and see if it tightens up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-shot Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 You will have to experiment with different combos of trigger/striker/safety plunger springs to see which feels best and maintains a safe pull. It took me a little while to get it right, get a trigger from vanek and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elenius Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Alright, that makes me feel better. I'll just dry fire lake crazy The actual pull already got better from doing that, in fact. This will be sweet to shoot (haven't done so yet). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 the relationship between the weight of the striker spring and the triger bar spring is such that if the striker sprig is not as powerful as the bar the bar will move back and stay . the solution is to stetch the triger spring just a touch. if you are using a gmiester triger spring and a reduced power striker spring you can have problems. try a stock bar spring with a 4 pnd strikerspring .problem usualy goes away. I use stock bar springs as they last longer than any aftermarket, If you have moved the hole location then a streach may be needed also. johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 I don't drill the hole rather I heat and bend the bar where the trigger spring attaches to 90*. Then use the OEM trigger spring. Also use a lightened striker and a OEM striker spring w/7 loops cut off. Strong reset and will light off any primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elenius Posted October 22, 2006 Author Share Posted October 22, 2006 I'm not at the heating and drilling stage yet, so I just put the original trigger bar spring back. This solved the problem! I also put Brian's Slide Glide #3 on all the connecting metal parts. The trigger is a tiny bit heavier, but the pull is much much cleaner. It breaks really crisp, no creep as far as I can tell! Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincent Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 duck, Do you make the bend just above the hole where the trigger spring attaches? Thanks, -Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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