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When Did Sa Start Threading Barrel Lands?


InTheBlack

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A friend bought a NIB looking used Springfield stainless 1911 A1. The previous owner installed a magwell and ambi safety.

Now that he got it home and I've cleaned the barrel, it looks as if the lands have a very fine thread on them !!!

This barrel should never have been installed in a frame. Its glarinlgy obvious to the naked eye, if the barrel is clean. Of couse, its not coming _completely_ clean because of the lack of smoothness.

This is a real shame, he's going to be very bummed out; this is the gun he bought in order to get involved in handgun shooting.

The gun shop should be able to send it back to Springfield cheap via US mail, right? Or is that only for long guns?

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I understand your concern & can relate to expecting the bore to be smooth on a newish gun, but I must ask, how does it shoot? If it shoots accurately and reliably , why return it? If it is used, one would presume it is safe & functional (the previous owner shot it, correct?)

I ordered a custom 1911 bull barrel in .40 from a well known USPSA sponsor that arrived with tooling marks that resembled your description; the barrel broke in just fine & has shot well from nearly day one.

I would shoot that .45 with at least 2 types of ammo before demanding a new barrel. Please let us know how this situation turns out.

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SA's lower-end guns are hit and miss on their best day. My SA's barrel had crappy lands and a rough chamber. I just JB'd the thing and it worked out fine. Shot very nice.

You just can't expect much from a $500 1911. 'Tis the way it is.

As far as cutting 5 coils off a mainspring...that's just...well, never mind.

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I'd see if you might be able to get SA to take it back. Other than that, I pretty much second Eric's comments. Hell, I've seen one of their top end guns, a TRP, that shot 1 1/2' below POA at 25 yards- out of the box. If SA won't help, I'd just see how in-spec the frame is and call it a builder.

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if the main spring is cut it may have been the one that was in the ILS mainspring housing..

they use a shorter mainspring in them becase of the locking works..

I know because I just bought a GI springer and switched out the

mainspring housing with a S&A and I noticed that is was shorter.

Shoot it first and see where it is hitting may be just fine as a starter

pistol...

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Figured out the ILS type mainspring was in it. I've put in a normal spring and now I think the guy compensated for not having a mainspring cap pin (and thus sticking out too far) by shortening the hammer strut. Unless it cam from the factor that was, but that would be hard to believe because its so crappy. It doesn't touch the spring at all when decocked. See other thread "purpose for cutting mainspring." Now the trigger pull is shit, it wobbles when decocked, and I can't get it onto the half cock notch

No barrel should have chatter marks like this. Just plain lack of quality control, not to mention no way to get it clean.

BTW this is the "Loaded" model.

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I just bought a loaded SA 1911-A1 & the barrel is nice & sharp. It sounds like the original owner screwed up trying to clean the bore. About the same quality as when changing to the S&S mag well. There is supposed to be a main spring cap in there held in by a tiny pin. I would start with a Ti main spring cap, a 17# main spring and a Ti hammer strut and this will bring the S&A to where it should have been.

Right out of the box this gun was shooting 4" 10 shot groups with Winchester 230 gr Truncated Cone at 10 yards freestyle after only a lube job.

Get the right parts in it so it can be shot then see what else it needs.

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This gun retails for over $900, it shouldn't need a damn thing done to it.

These are tool marks with a regular pattern; there's no way cleaning could have done this. Cleaning would leave axial scratches, not a regularly spaced threaded pattern all the way down.

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