Reset How Little, How To?

[cking]

Have question for 1911 trigger smiths.

I have a Titanium hammer, maybe even a T sear. Now I know Tit has gone out of favor as they don't last as long as Tool Steel.

Awhile back I had a couple of half cock hammer drops. So I recut my sear and hammer, problem gone. Trigger is still crisp.

Now here is the question. it seems I have more travel before a reset now. Not much, but my finger was trained for it, now occasionally I find myself squeezing for the second shot and I haven't reset the trigger yet.

So does shortening your sear affect reset?

Now I know I can use the overtravel screws and the nub on the trigger strap to control trigger takeup and overtravel, but can I actually do anything to lessen reset travel

Thanks in Advance

[aclundwall]

I can't believe no one has replied to this yet. I'm not a gunsmith, but I'll take a stab at this. By all means, if I'm in error, someone please point it out!

You've recut your old sear with new surfaces. So, it's a little shorter. Therefore, I would imagine that it (the top of the sear) has to pivot farther rearward before it comes to rest against the hammer. It would follow that the bottom of the sear would therefore pivot farther forward. The disconnector, which is between the bottom-forward part of the sear and the back of the trigger bow, is going to be slightly farther forward than it was previously. That also means that the rear face of the trigger bow is going to contact the disconnector sooner.

But once the trigger breaks, the trigger will move rearward till it is stopped, and that's usually by the overtravel screw. If you have left the overtravel screw unchanged, then the trigger is going to travel rearward to the same point as before. So, the overall distance the trigger moves will increase, and the reset distance will increase with it, until you adjust your overtravel screw to match.

I find it surprising that the difference was one you can actually feel. I would assume you only removed enough material from the sear to clean up the surfaces, perhaps only a few thousandths of an inch, and I would never have thought that was noticeable. OTOH, if you have a very large number of rounds through that gun as it was, perhaps even the smallest changes will be noticeable. Of course, if the amount of material you removed was significant, I could see that making an obvious difference.

It's also worth noting that your trigger face will now be farther forward than before (at the point where the slack is taken out). Unlike the reset distance, that won't change by adjusting the overtravel screw. Again, this can't be more than a couple thousandths, depending upon how much beef you took off the sear, but perhaps still evident to a shooter with lots of rounds through the weapon.

Have you checked the safety for proper function? The safety's operation is affected by recutting the sear.

Hope I didn't put my foot in my mouth.

[cking]

From studying my blue prints of the 45 that's what I thought, but also thought I might be dreaming. I did end up adjusting the overtravel screw. I did have alot of rounds through gun, wore out a set of accurails, front bushing had gotten loose and finally cracked the recoil plug. Nowlin barrel was still fine. So had Krieger redo the rails for me, fitted a new barrel bushing, and new recoil plug and back to shooting fine again. I touched up the hammer and sears notches, very little removed. Safety is fine.

[lynn jones]

T-hammers, sears, firning pins are junk. don't use them. they just don't last and are expensive.

jmo

lynn

[cking]

I would not repeat the purchase but I've got over 30,000 rounds through mine before I had to retouch the surfaces. However the improvement in lock time was obvious. The new skeleton style hammers have lowered the weight advantage. I had gone the whole route, even the mainspring plug was Tit.

If I was to do over I would use a tool steel hammer and sear and disconnector. Still would use Tit in firing pin, hammer strut, and mainspring plug. Along with light weight hammer and sear.