Heyman2 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Hey guys. I have a M&P9 Pro, that has an Apex Sear in it. It also has an Apex Comp striker spring, and sear spring. It pulls at around 3.5 pounds on average. The only thing I wish was different is the pre-travel. I find it to be too long. Is there anything I can do to shorten the pre-travel without changing the external appearance of the gun? I shoot gun in Production Division and SSP Division where external trigger mods are not allowed. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgj3 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 From the rear of the frame with the slide removed... On the right side of the trigger there is a turn in the trigger bar that ends up basically contacting the front of the top of the magazine well. Drill and tap a hole through that area and run a little set screw into it. Adjust the set screw in and out to address pre travel. If this sounds a little over-simplified, that's because it is, but that is how Burwell tackles it to create excellent M&P triggers that are still IDPA SSP and USPSA Production legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyman2 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 From the rear of the frame with the slide removed... On the right side of the trigger there is a turn in the trigger bar that ends up basically contacting the front of the top of the magazine well. Drill and tap a hole through that area and run a little set screw into it. Adjust the set screw in and out to address pre travel. If this sounds a little over-simplified, that's because it is, but that is how Burwell tackles it to create excellent M&P triggers that are still IDPA SSP and USPSA Production legal. Thanks for the info wgj3. I was hoping there would be a drop it part that I could install, but this seems pretty easy to do. I just don't trust myself though to start drilling into the trigger bar. Although I'm sure this is easy to do and would work fine, are there any other options I have that you know of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgj3 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 The Apex Forward set sear and trigger also helps with trigger travel. It eliminates a bunch of pre- and over- travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyman2 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) The Apex Forward set sear and trigger also helps with trigger travel. It eliminates a bunch of pre- and over- travel. This is an option I'm exploring, but I'd have to switch Divisions, which I'm not 100% opposed to doing. Looks like the two options you've given me are pretty much all my options. Thanks for your time and advice! Edited July 7, 2016 by Heyman2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) Whatever method you choose, make sure you leave enough pretravel in there to assure that the tab sticking up on the top of the trigger bare moves forward far enough that it isn't lifting the striker block / safety at all. That safety is mandatory to assure that an M&P or Glock is proofed against discharging a round if it is dropped or struck hard. If an impact causes the sear to let the striker go... The only thing stopping it from hitting the back of the cartridge in the chamber is that firing pin block. I'm telling you this because I've seen several M&Ps with various FSS or homebrew triggers that weren't checked for this. Edited July 8, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heyman2 Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Whatever method you choose, make sure you leave enough pretravel in there to assure that the tab sticking up on the top of the trigger bare moves forward far enough that it isn't lifting the striker block / safety at all. That safety is mandatory to assure that an M&P or Glock is proofed against discharging a round if it is dropped or struck hard. If an impact causes the sear to let the striker go... The only thing stopping it from hitting the back of the cartridge in the chamber is that firing pin block. I'm telling you this because I've seen several M&Ps with various FSS or homebrew triggers that weren't checked for this. Thank you for the advice. After weighing my options, I've decided to just leave it as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Wise move. My gun has all of the overtravel removed but I left the pre-travel unmodified. Along with springs and an Apex sear, it's plenty light and sweet. I don't know why people obsess over deleting the pretravel, given the difficulty in maintaining a functioning firing pin safety (striker block)... either it's because they're used to 1911s and the pretravel messes with them, or they aren't aware how easy it is to disable that safety on accident. I found that a few weeks worth of handling an M&P made "taking the slack out" of the trigger automatic. Every time it's presented to a target, you simply roll the trigger back until you're in contact with the sear, and stay back there until you reload, etc. Edited July 11, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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