New to Reloading

[funshooting]

All,

I've decided to begin reloading for .45 and then probably 9mm.

I've bought and read Speer #13 and Lymans #48 manuals. Both manuals warn that you showuld not change anything in their recipes including the brand name. However, speer bullets are quite expensive.

I was looking at the Zero and Montana Gold bullets which seem popoular with top USPSA folks and are far less expensive than Speer.

How do you go about getting recipes for different brand components? I certainly do not want any bad experiences as begin this new hobby.

Thanks for any help.

[bgary]

Where the reloading manuals show recipes for a 200-grain jacketed round-nose (or whatever), you can generally substitute *anyone's" 200-grain jacketed round-nose in the recipe and be OK. It is the weight, the shape and the material (jacketed or lead) that are most important. You would not necessarily want to substitute a lead 200 for a jacketed 200; you would not necessarily want to substitute a hollow-point 200 for a round-nose 200. But if the basic bullet characteristics are the same, you could substitute a Zero for a Speer with no problems.

The same is *not* true with powders - when a recipe calls for 3.2 grains of Whoever's N990 powder, use *exactly* that brand and type, because powders do have very different characteristics.

There are two other sources of info you may want to consider. One, each of the powder manufacturers has a "recipe book" tailored for their powders. So, if you go with a Winchester powder, for example, it will give you a list of a bunch of .45 loads, for different bullet types, but without specifying bullet brands. Or, you can call the bullet manufacturers. My guess is that Montana Gold and Zero each have a pamphlet that would have recipes for typical loads with their bullets.

Hope that helps?

Bruce

[Guest Larry Cazes]

Whenever changing anything in a load from manufacturers data, always start 10% below the maximum published charge weight and of course use a chronograph to verify velocities are within range. Then if safe and there are no signs of excess pressure, increment the load and work up towards the maximum listed.

Be safe.

[Gun Geek]

Whenever changing anything in a load from manufacturers data, always start 10% below the maximum published charge weight and of course use a chronograph to verify velocities are within range.  Then if safe and there are no signs of excess pressure, increment the load and work up towards the maximum listed.

Be safe.

Amen, Absolutely.

Get familiar with a cartridge and learn the pressure signs.

My advice (which is what I give when I teach reloading classes) is to use a 44 mag. The guns are usually very strong revolvers and you can go WAY over the SAMMI specs and not hurt your self or damage the gun.

The chrono stuff is optional for general safe reloading, but required if you are doing competition stuff where you need to make power factor.

I'm also with bruce on being very careful about changing powders. You can change other components and if you follow the 10% rule you'll be fine. DOn't willy-nilly change powders.

[syme71]

I just started reloading as well. Would also suggest looking at plated bullets. I've tried some Rainier and Frontier plated. Both brands are significantly cheaper than the name brand stuff like Hornady and Speer. Haven't seen much of a difference in accuracy and I like that the whole bullet is encased in copper.

[bgary]

Just a note - most of the reloading manuals do *not* have recipes for plated bullets, and IMHO you should not use the jacketed-bullet recipes. In most cases, the recipes for lead bullets will be best.

And, as always, start 10% below the listed load and work your way up, watching for signs of pressure.

Bruce

[Mistral404]

I am new to it also. But I am fairly lucky in that I have friends that have been doing it for a long long time.

This is what I have noticed:

Stick with one powder--my case itsVV320

Stick with one bullet--MG seat lower in my press than Winchester.

I use Winchester Primers just because they were there.

My brass is assorted.

Based on all my friends' advice, my max load is 5.1gr of VV320 for 180 gr bullet at 1.2 aol. Any variations are with less powder.

BTW: I do not own anyones manual. I did download VV manual and I talked with their US technical representative but honestly my recipe came from a bunch of different shooters with the same type of gun and barrel as mine. There was very little variation in what they said.

[syme71]

Just a note - most of the reloading manuals do *not* have recipes for plated bullets, and IMHO you should not use the jacketed-bullet recipes. In most cases, the recipes for lead bullets will be best.

This is true. In speaking with the bullets vendors, manufacturers and other more experienced reloaders - they all say to load using the lead bullet recipes since the plating is softer than a jacketed bullet. The other consistent message I got was never to use magnum loads.

I load mine using 180gr/3.5gr TG/1.130 OAL recipe w/15# spring on G35w/KKM. I've gone through 1500 rounds of plated without any issues.