Another few small problems with my 1050

[darkmod]

Hi guys! I was having a powder spilling issue caused by jerky shellplate rotation. On the recommendation of another forum member, I bought and installed a circular bearing washer between the shellplate and nut.

The shellplate now rotates a bit smoother, but now im getting pressure at the bottom of the stroke. Its akin to what you feel when you screw down a sizing die a little past where the shellplate meets it to get camover. I cant really tell where the pressure is coming from since the sizing die mouth is right up on the shellplate, but im thinking maybe the nut is meeting the toolhead prematurely from the extra space generated by the 1mm thick washer.

At any rate, its kind of bothering me, and im prepared to remove it if none of you can figure out a remedy for me. If I remove it, is there a better option for smoother shellplate rotation? I noticed the 1050 has a ball bearing much like the 650, and I know a common remedy is to clip half a coil of the spring. Is that a viable option on the 1050?

The other thing is does anyone prep their .223 brass on the 1050 and load on the 650? Im thinking this may be an option, but I cant see how it would work without having to prelube the cases. Currently I prep on the 650 using an rcbs lube die, size/decap, Dillon 1200 trimmer in that order. I then tumble to remove the lube and burrs from the brass, and dump them into the 1050 with a universal decapping die instead of a sizing die to eliminate having to lube the brass (the decapper is just to punch out any media stuck in the flash hole).

Any wisdom from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

[rjacobs]

Every time I look at those bearing kits, they seem to me to introduce another point of something that can cause an issue.

When I clean my machines I put a little red bearing grease on the machine and the shell plate top, bottom and inside where the big nut touches it and where it contacts the press(dont smear it on the entire bottom of the shell plate, just the area where the nut will be putting force on the plate, so maybe 1/2" of the shell plate). Then I tighten down the big nut till I cant turn the shell plate and back off 1/4 turn and put the 4 set screws in. Provides easy, smooth turning and I get no binding or popping of the plate.

The detent ball and spring are as they came from the factory and I run them dry, no grease, no nothing.

50k+ rounds between 2 presses, which in the grand scheme of 1050 operation is nothing, but the above has made both my 1050's operate really smoothly with none of these aftermarket "enhancements" needed.

[darkmod]

Sounds good to me, I think ill remove the washer and fiddle with it until its smooth.

Thanks!

[Xfire68]

I bought one of those bearing kits and it did little to nothing and ended up having the same issues as you did. I took it out and all is well.

The bearing kit is a fix that does not seem to work all that well?

[mcbutler]

Flatten the heads of the 4 screws that hold the plastic locking tabs in place. Does not take much as I just sanded them down some what . They are rubbing against the tool head. I like the bearing. Hope this helps.

[noylj]

If it is an RL and not a super, there isn't enough room between the ram and tool head for the bearing. Raise your ram and look at the interface between it and the tool head and be sure there is a gap between the bearing and tool head.

I find that simply tightening the shell plate down until it moves smoothly works for me. Grease the ID of the shell plate.

[darkmod]

Ok I removed the bearing last night and fiddled with the tightness of the nut until I got it fairly smooth. I found the opposite of what everyone was telling me: that looser was better. Ill see what happens when its full of brass and if the problem persists ill tighten it down more.

Thanks for the help guys!