angus6 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Morris; Might consider ditching that stock clutch from Fortch. I couldn't ever get it consistent, so I gave up. These are WAY better: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dalton-Gear-Torque-Limiter-OSD-225-Bore-5-8-/121382406217 Just have to bore the ID out for the JenJay motor (18mm). Looks just like the Brownings we use at work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfire68 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 There is nothing on 6, where the PC goes. The seat die is in #7 but does nothing without bullets. Only thing happening is at #1, case feed, #2 size/deprime and #3 swage/expand. Just makes sure all of the brass is ready to load and will run through the machine. You don't really have to do it but processing brass this way makes sure you don't have problems on the loading pass. I don't preprocess brass loading manually (as that would result in twice the work cranking the handle) but it takes little effort to do it if all you have to do is keep brass in the collator. Keeps malfunctions while loading at a minimum resulting in less chance to have problems with the final product. That was a "first run" of that machine. Once set up for loading, I just remove the PC arbor and powder measure for processing and replace them for loading, two Allen socket head screws. When I have time to finish automating my 45 acp 1050 I will have my SPP culler installed in the processing pass then switch over to the swager for the load pass. Just to keep from having to build a totally different device. That is slick! Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaycwebb Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 IMHO Prepping then loading will produce better quality ammo. Is this true for pistol ammo as well? or a waste of time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 IMHO Prepping then loading will produce better quality ammo. Is this true for pistol ammo as well? or a waste of time? I think waste of time for pistol unless you want to have clean primer pockets from wet tumbling with the primer out. The first time I load a new batch of range brass takes the longest to cull out crappy brass. Every loading after that is so much smoother since I dont have to stop and cull crap brass, berdan primed, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) IMHO Prepping then loading will produce better quality ammo.Is this true for pistol ammo as well? or a waste of time?It is only a waste of time if you don't want to make sure every case will make it through the loading process. If you don't mind stopping for whatever reason, there is no need. The "prep" pass is the one that culls all of the problem cases, so the load pass has no problems. That is the way I do it with automated machines. It is not a matter of "better" buta matter of 100% running. It really jacks with production to have problems loading for any reason when they can be caught processing. As this is an "auto" thread the effort in the process pass is almost nothing (go back and look at the second video in #12). If it runs through the first time it will load and if there are any problems now primers, powder or bullets are involved. Edited July 23, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I just tried your pre prep method. I prepped 2K and have them ready to load. As I was doing this i did have several problems with brass, primer and ones that would drag. Very simple to weed out and I hope your right. When I load should be a no brainer. With this said, if I was not running auto, then this might not be a great an idea. I can do lots of stuff while the machine is prepping the brass. JMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Guys, I will post this once. If you look at any of the truly big automated machines they all require processed brass. Period. That means rollsized, primer pockets (reamed, but swaged properly will work find) and inspected for objects, etc. With the Forcht conversion straight walled cases are more forgiving, but if you run 9mm your best bet is to run same headstamp brass. There are about 26 different types of 9mm brass. If you don't set up the bullet dropper and powder die to bell the case properly you will have tipped bullets and mash them. You must keep the priming system clean all the time ( hose by press works well) and remember if your brass is not swaged properly and you try to push the primer into a tight pocket you will set one off. Your slip clutch must be set up to just barely run the press so if you have any issue the press doesn't muscle through it. If not you need to buy a bunch of index pawls as that will eventually break if it gets jammed up. I had the rotary press made, and worked through the prototypes with him to get the units that are out now. If you don't pre process and sort your brass you will be very unhappy......Think of it this way......garbage in, garbage out. It takes more time but less in the long run if you know what I mean....and yes, running the brass through the machine alone makes it easier to load the next time through.......hint hint..... Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddy Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 My 1050's Forcht Rotary auto drive modification 3ph 220v motor VFD for speed control I'm in the discovery/planning stage of doing this with my 1050. I also intend to add PLC control similar to JMorris' conversion. I could use a little help in acquiring parts. Could someone give me a little help with the motor specs and supplier? One other question, from the video/pictures I've seen, it is unclear how the roller chain sprocket is attached to the shaft on the press end. I have a machine and welding shop at my disposal and the required knowledge for the PLC, VFD, etc. With motor specs and drive questions answered, I'll be ready for the design stage. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 (edited) Drive details here. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176707&hl=%2Brotary+%2B1050#entry1963232 The name plate on the motor of the machine I posted above. It runs twice as fast as it needs to, thus the 2:1 reduction in the drive sprockets. eBay is the best place for used gear motors. Wait long enough and $30 will get you a $600 motor. Edited July 25, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 That's the motor I use on my presses. I got 4 It used to be $30 but I have not found any at that price anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 25, 2014 Share Posted July 25, 2014 That's the motor I use on my presses. I got 4 It used to be $30 but I have not found anymore at that price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddy Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Thanks guys, that info is exactly what I was looking for. I really appreciate the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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