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Need help on 625 - another what to buy question


Paradiddle

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I realize this topic comes up all the time, but after reading every thread I could find I still lack some clarity on the 625.

First - I live in California so pre-lock Smiths are VERY rare and expensive and they must come from inside our state (unless you want to go through some hoops).

I want to start getting serious about competition again and I want to shoot revolver. Most of the competitions in my local area are USPSA/IPSC type of stuff (run and gun) as an FYI.

I currently compete with a CZ75 that is set up like the Shadow. I also have shot single stack with my 1911 a couple of times and reload 9mm, 38, and 45 so ammo is not a factor for me.

I had a 4" M19 K frame but don't reload it all that well (even with comp iii) and want to try shooting the 625. I have small/medium sized hands, crappy vision (wear glasses), and am not a big fan of getting beat up by my guns. The 1911 is very manageable recoil wise as an FYI just as a benchmark.

All of this leads up to my questions:

I have an handle on a used 5" 625 either a -3 or -4 (seller hasn't replied back to me yet on that). It's a pre-lock no MIM, hardly used so here in California it is considered “rare”. It has an "action job" and has had the holes lightly chamfered. Not sure who the smith was that did the work. Stock otherwise. The seller is a great guy so I trust his description and he says it shoots great and will light off all factory ammo.

My second option is a nearly new 625JM that just popped up locally. 100% stock.

The price difference between the 2 is $350.

At this time I want a light trigger, but I'm not willing to hand seat primers and not sure I want to completely "bob" the hammer.

Everything I've read said that unless I'm dead set on shooting IPDA (which I'm not, and I could always run the K or another pistol) I should get the 5" (even though the -3 or -4 has the firing pin on the hammer - correct?)

Is this more of a sight radius/target acquisition thing, or is recoil a substantial factor between the two? If I purchased the JM Alan Tanaka would do the work required to get it to shoot "right".

What are the thoughts of the revo experts here? Spend the $350 on the 5” and maybe need to spend more on some work by Tanaka if the action isn’t light enough, or get the JM and put the $350 into the action job?

Thanks,

Jeff

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I am not an expert.

Unless things change in California, the 5" 625 will not lose value, and in fact will probably appreciate. 625 JMs are not rare, uncommon, or special (IMO) so as long as we're spending your money :) I'd say get the 5" 625; if I hadn't found a "right place, right time" deal on my 4" dash-8, I'd have held out for one.

In case you didn't find it in your searching, here's the thread where Mike Carmoney lays out the differences between dash models: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=159958entry1785606

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