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battered reverse plug


1911Prof

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I have noticed that the last couple of times i have been cleaning my open gun that the reverse plug and spring/guide rod were kind of tough to get out after I pulled the slide. For years it would just slide out but the last time I really had to knock it out and noticed that the edge of the plug that seats in the slide was peened out a bit and had a burr that was sticking. On inspection it looked like the edge of the reverse plug had gotten battered. I just buffed out the burr and the recoil spring assembly slides in and out fine again, but I found this really odd. Any suggestions?

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You wouldn't notice anything while racking the slide, until the spring goes"solid". Best way to tell is put tape on the slide and frame, take the spring out and each it fully to the rear and mark the tape. Put the spring back in and compare the marks, they should line up. If the slide doesn't go to the same spot, your spring us too long.

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Wow... I would not have thought there would be a major difference between an 8# ISMI recoil spring and a 9# ISMI spring, but it is as you said. With no spring or a new 8# spring, the slide and frame go to the same location. When I put a 9# spring in, the slide does not go back as far by about 1/8". I assume that means that the spring is going "solid" (and therefore reverse plug) and taking the brunt of the impact. If I want to go to a higher pound spring do I need to cut coils off the spring?

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Assuming you have a take down hole in the guide rod.....

Put your guide rod, spring and guide rod plug together. Compress and install your take down tool.

See how far you can compress the assembly.

If the guide rod plug doesn't contact the head of the guide rod, clip one coil off at a time until it contacts each other.

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