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1911 trigger takeup fixture


Suicycle

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I have seen triggers out there that have wings in the to adjust take up.

I recently had a set screw installed in my double stack para to take put the take up.

I have a picture on another pc I will attempt to post. It did make a big difference I the trigger

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Pic as promised. I have store it full size on my shutterfly account

http://retread1911.shutterfly.com/pictures/48

I use a 6x32 screw so it matched the over travel one I. The trigger but it is too big. A 4x40 would be better.

It does make a big difference in getting the non adjustable triggers to run. If you have a gun that an adjustable trigger is available for then that is a better way to go. I was very nervous putting a hole in my frame.

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Thanks for the pic. That would do it, but I am not interested in drilling the frame of my single stack yet. I was trying to figure out how a screw on the trigger could work and was lost.

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post-9226-0-46557400-1341023317_thumb.jp

The wings or tabs that are used for stopping forward movement are adjusted by pushing them forward enough to stop the triggers forward movement.

Any setscrew in that area would be in the way of the magazine passing through the bow.

Any fixture used for adjusting the forward movement must have reformed the shape of the trigger bow?

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post-9226-0-46557400-1341023317_thumb.jp

Any setscrew in that area would be in the way of the magazine passing through the bow.

Actually, where the setscrew is placed is in the very front of the trigger bow channel and would have no effect whatsoever on any magazine.

Edited by 392heminut
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Pic as promised. I have store it full size on my shutterfly account

http://retread1911.shutterfly.com/pictures/48

I use a 6x32 screw so it matched the over travel one I. The trigger but it is too big. A 4x40 would be better.

It does make a big difference in getting the non adjustable triggers to run. If you have a gun that an adjustable trigger is available for then that is a better way to go. I was very nervous putting a hole in my frame.

That is a great idea. Might be just what my old school para ordnance needs. Looks tough to get a drill chuck past the trigger guard. Guess there's only one way to find out.

-john

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The fixture I am looking for the trigger sits in and you use a punch to place a dimple where the wings are on that trigger. I may just have to make one or talk to the smith and see if he could cnc something.

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The fixture I am looking for the trigger sits in and you use a punch to place a dimple where the wings are on that trigger. I may just have to make one or talk to the smith and see if he could cnc something.

The fixture you are referring to was made by Jack Weigand. I have used one for many years...it is a trick little tool. It is not listed on Jack's website anymore, you might find one on line somewhere. But, it will probably be simplier & cheaper to purchase one of the newer triggers that have the cut out tab that bends to set the pre-travel as others have mentioned.

IHTH: Phil

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If I can talk future customers into that trigger set up I am in business. If I need to work ok stock components or what they want doesn't have tabs what do you do. I am about to get out the brownells catalog with a friend cause he has talked me out of a single stack.

Edited by Suicycle
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Quick update as I have been busy for a while.

I heard about this from a friend and took my frame to a machinist not a smith. So we chucked the frame up in a mill and drilled it drone the back of the frame through the track where the trigger bar rides.

The standard dril l bits were not long enough so we wound up build and extension for the last 1/16 an inch. The treads were cut manually because we couldn't get the chuck close enough through the frame.

I would still recommend a 4/40 instead of the 6/32. The finer thread will give you an easier time adjusting the position.

I did snap a pic of the extension idea. If I get a chance tomorrow I will get it posted.

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