Buffalobolt Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 OK. I have a model-27 PPC gun that has a trigger that I love! My newer 627PC's trigger, well, not so much! So, I bought the Jerry Miculek's Action Tuning DVD (I know, eye's are already rolling! Another botched newbie action job!). Everything was going well. After everything was stoned, and the new springs installed, I started shortening the strain screw. I got it to eight pounds and intended to leave it there to make sure everything was OK before moving towards that seven pounds that the instructions recommended. After each incremental change, I would cycle the action about 20-25 times and then take the average of 10 pulls on the digital trigger scale. As time went on the poundage went up! Today I got back into it and sat and repeatedly cycled and weighed the action with the side plate off and hammer block removed. Then I noticed that the pin on the sear was walking out of the hole! When I first took the gun apart to stone the high spots off, I did notice some odd marks on the hammer block but I didn't recognize what was doing it. Now I realize that every time I put it back together that pin was walking out and wearing/binding on the hammer block. What is the recommended fix for this issue? Peen the pin on the bolt side of the hammer so it can walk out? Remove the pin and put a dab of blue lock-tite on that pin and re-install it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Make the pin slightly shorter, put it back in and use a center punch just outside the edge of the hole to make a dimple that moves some material into the hole. Do this on each side. It only takes a little bit, don't get carried away. Stone the sides of the hammer to make sure there is no raised material around the edges of the crater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okshootist Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Something to consider: Early in my shooting career, I experienced a couple of broken hammer studs. Since then, I've made it a practice to back the strain screw off prior to removing the side plate and never cycle the action under spring pressure with the side plate off. No more broken hammer studs. Whether it is cause and effect or coincidence, it works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buffalobolt Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thank you both for the information! Toolguy, I thought that something along that line would be the best way to go. Wasn't thinking about shortening the pin though. I'll get on that tonight! OKSHOOTIST, Also good info that I hadn't considered! Even though I probably wouldn't have figured out what was going on without doing so, now that I'm aware of an thinking about the extra stress on that pin with the sideplate removed, I will refrain from doing that again. Thanks again for the info! As a side note; I also figured out why the gun kept shooting right, while I didn't think I was pulling the shots. On the second rap across the frame of the gun to remove the sideplate, the rear sight detent bounced off of my forehead and was lost. I didn't realize what had just happened until I noticed the sight blade on the bench. Any upgrades I should do while replacing the rear sight? Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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