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More mods after trigger work, what to expect....


fastarget

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We have 2 pros used with minor PF, that have had trigger work while retaining all factory springs(and none were modified). Triggers are about 3.5-3.75 pds and break close to the trigger stop, there is alot of take up for the initial shot, reset is quick however but light.

Would there be any further advantage to look into a kit from Apex or changing the stock springs for reduced power type?

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depends on how low you want to go in trigger weight. the apex comp kit will take you down to 2.5 to 2.75 #. if yours already have mods, just get the comp spring kit and see what happens. a lot of people rave about the RAM. They say it make the reset click feel harder. I tried it on someones gun and I was not impressed. one can accomplish the same by bending the trigger bar are a little.

Personally, I like my triggers in the 3-4 # range. light enough for a steady shot, but not to light to get a ND.

Edited by 98006
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Thanks for the reply, I am not as concerned about trigger weight much lighter (2.75 to 3 is perfect) as much as getting the trigger to break clean, and to feel a positive reset, you have to pay close attention to feel the reset in these guns. The way the triggers break on these guns, makes it easy to shoot low 15-20 yd targets(trigger pull), something in where they break in the pull of the trigger, it is hard to describe, but the wife is usually accurate with other guns but having difficulty with these, mabybe geometry, hard to describe, the trigger breaks at a point that the relase of the striker makes the gun nose dive........and "Anything" to help that aspect would be terrific, maybe just a striker spring change?

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I don't change the striker spring, as long as it's the gen4 assembly from Smith it will ignite anything.

The sear geometry is where you can make huge gains in feel (crispness). Apex has changed their sear geometry recently and I like the older one better. Install the trigger return spring and safety plunger spring from Apex. Makes a big difference in pretravel pull weight. I bend the trigger bar .020" to get an increase in reset feel.

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You are not going to fix the sear break point with the changes you are looking at. The only way to do that is to alter the trigger bar so that it engages the sear earlier. This has some extra baggage (timing the striker block, over travel, etc) but it will remove the pre-travel.

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