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FN SLP Failure to eject


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I just got an SLP. Test firedit last week with various ammo. Did well w/ winchester AA light target. Used it in a match today and it failed to eject this round. What happened last week when it ate it up fine? Is there a light recoil round that this gun likes, or do I need the trap piston from Brownells?

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It sounds like this is a new SLP? If it is and it functioned fine initially did you clean it and lube it before the recent failure? Some SLP's like a hundred or so heavy loads to break them in or you can take them apart and smooth and polish everything too. If it is new it is probably just a little tight.

Best of Luck,


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I forgot to add that I run the heavy load piston in my slp all the time and regularly run Walmart Winchester value packs 100%. After a good breakin of heavy loads I polished everything inside and I have not been able to get it to fail since then. Search this forum for DocMcG and SLP Mod's and you we see a list that Doc put together that pretty much covers everything to make an SLP near bullet proof. Thanks DocMcG!!!

Good Luck,


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  • 3 months later...

Search this forum for DocMcG and SLP Mod's and you we see a list that Doc put together that pretty much covers everything to make an SLP near bullet proof.

I can't seem to find that thread. Only the one on broken pistons. That's not the one you're talking about is it?

TY :)

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Hello All, here is the list the DocMcG put together for SLP tuning. This list certainly helped.

"The long and the short of it is that once you modify one part of the shotgun it typically throws another a bit off balance so you have to make minor modifications to several other parts to bring it back in check. The good news is, it is not hard to do.

Here is a list of things I have done to mine and additional notes for each. Let me know if you would like me to send you any photos.

1. Weld up the "thumb destroying" lifter. (This is what Shumaker did such a good job of for me! He not only welded it up, he also milled the "Benelli" slot in it and built up the starboard side to improve reliability.)(NOTE: this tends to cause reliability issues with shells failing to feed by hanging up on the extractor slot at 3 o'clock on the chamber.)

2. Polished the Chamber and Extractor Slot from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (This was done to prevent the failure to feed issue caused by the modification to the lifter. I did this with my finger, some emory cloth and steel wool.)

3. I opened up the loading port with HANDTOOLS! (I refuse to use the Dremel tool because of my own habit of going too fast.)

4. I cut back the hand guard so it would not interfere with reloads or the loading port I just opened.

5. Added the Nordic Comp charging handle

6. Added the Nordic Comp Benelli bolt release oversized button

7. Soft sided shot shell carriers for the port side (9 shell) and the 2 shell slide lock carrier for the starboard side. (both are hook and look removable.)

8. Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.)

9. Polish the inside of the tubular magazine. (Wrap a 12ga brass brush in steel wool, place it on a cleaning rod and chuck it up in a high speed drill. Run it up and down the tube at high rpm to polish the heck out of it!)

10. Polish the magazine spring and shell follower. (This is done with steel wool as well. I plan on buying a Nordic Comp follower, but have not gotten it done yet.)

11. Polish the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Tube: (Remove the stock and disassemble the recoil tube and spring. Clean all oil residue off. Chuck the spring up in a 1/2" drill and run it at high rpm while running steel wool up and down the length of the spring. Polish the inside of the recoil tube using the same procedure mentioned above for polishing the tubular magazine, but use a .45 acp brush/20ga brush. After polishing them both and wiping clean, slather the spring and inside of tube in an engine reassembly lube of your choice. This makes the recoil operation sing!)

12. I have also added extended choke tubes and run the I/C and Light Mod for most everything.

13. Run the light gas piston for all shot and try to run reduced recoil slugs. (FN says this keeps everything under 1000/1100fps and you can leave the light piston in all of the time.)

14. Cleaning/Maintenance: (A) Buy a full bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and pour it in a small glass. Drop your gas piston in it and let is soak while you clean the rest of the shotgun. Drop it in first and then brush the piston up after cleaning everything else. The carbon brushes right off with a plastic bristle cleaning brush/toothbrush. (B Keep all oil off of the outside of the recoil tube! Clean it with dry steel wool only. The built up carbon creates an amazing lube! Wrap steel wool around the tube and with long even strokes clean the tube until the carbon is gone. The brass ring is a bit of a challenge, but can be done. Clean the barrel ring with steel wool the same way. C) Spray Rem Oil or another light oil on the magazine tube spring before inserting. The follower can be sprayed as well. D) I lube the moving part of the gun and all of my competition guns with a 5w Castrol Synthetic oil. It stays with the gun and does not go away, but this is a mess if you use too much!)

That is everything that I have learned from so many others and my SLP DOES NOT STOP!

If I can ever be of any assistance, please let me know."



Kyle McGregor

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