ALBY Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Win and RP are the best IMO. FC is ok. I load mostly for minor. I avoid win-nt, s@b, ppu, amerc, gfl, CBC and mil brass. Good news us that our range brass is mostly win,RP and fc. I sort out the stuff u want and recycle the rest. I have a picker that gives me weight for weight, raw brass vs my junk. I buy brass from him at junk price also. He collects it after our monthly match. I quite like the arrangement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephensOutdoors Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 I try to avoid any brass I actually have to pay for... not real picky but I only reload 9mm for minor PF. I agree with Dan. The only headstamps I try to avoid are marked WCC 09 or WCC 10. They tend to be problematic when trying to push new primers into the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saibot Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I too have noticed the S&B pistol brass can cause me some issues inserting a new primer if I don't have the press perfectly setup. WCC brass gets sorted out because I seem to have to swage it to get a primer in it. Other than that any boxer primer case seems to work. I loath TAA .223 cases, but that's a whole other topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OpenDot Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 what are some of the harder to see signs of brass to avoid? For instance... how can I tell a 9 major from minor load? Buldging at the bottom of the case from the pressure that 9 major build (approx 45,000psi) That's why we throw away the cases usually after 1 shot. Usually the buldge is at the bottom though near the primer pocket and rim. Not in the middle like the picture. usually it's just enough buldge in most cases that the round will not go all teh way into teh case gauge...at that point is where your bullet hammer saves you money! Sometimes you can't see the buldge either, reload the round just to find out it won't gauge...bullet hammer time once again. I shoot 9 major, I case gauge every round and also barrel check them...but i also repolish finished rounds..so my method is very time consuming Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldog Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Amerc and S&B brass is a PITA. VERY TIGHT PRIMER POCKETS. Completely goofs up your progressive press loading rhythm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabellum Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I load 9mm brass almost exclusively. I've had horrible luck with PFC, WCC and POF, Cor-Bon. I know others who will load them so I give them away. I DO however favor brass with the following headstamp: WIN, Blazer, R-P, Speer, Federal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdrissel Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 My $.02 What is your gun worth? What are your eyes and hands worth? Are they worth saving a few dollars? Spend the money, but new brass and don't reload anything that does not come out of your guns. If you use one brand only, you will eliminate several variables - case capacity, rim geometry, wall thickness, length and primer pocket size/shape. Shooting other peoples brass is like wearing someone else's underwear. Sure it's been washed, but where has it been? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Avoid AMERC brass like the plahue. S&B brass sometimes exhibits a bit of dificulty in repriming but otherwise is excellent brass. Recently I have seen the federal 9mm NT brass with crimpoed primer pockets and toss it into the scrap heap. Nothjing wrong with either military or NT crimped cases just not wotrth the effort to remove the crimp when other brass is plentifull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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