Crane lock question

[TxD]

If a ball/detent crane lock is installed, is the plunger lock on the barrel that locks the end of the ejector rod removed?

Thanks in advance.

[Bubber]

TxD, I would remove it. Looks like a pint then just drag out he spring and plunger. You can always put it back if needed. later rdd

[westczek]

Isn't removing the plunger lock and eliminating the drag on the cylinder the main benefit?

Westczek

[Toolguy]

The main benefit is to allow the end of the ejector rod to run free. If it's not exactly straight and true, it binds up, rubbing inside the crane. If the end is not constrained, then it will run more central in the hole in the crane. There is not enough friction from the spring plunger in the front end to make any difference. The main source of friction comes from the center pin in the back of the cylinder pushing against the thumblatch bar. You can check to see if yours is doing this by pulling the thumblatch backwards from the rest position with the cylinder closed. Ideally, there will be a little end play so the center pin isn't being compressed by the thumblatch. If it is being compressed, that pushes the cylinder forward against the back end of the crane, causing the cylinder to be harder to turn. This in turn makes the trigger pull heavier. The way to fix this is to either shorten the center pin slightly or file off the back part of the thumblatch where it goes against the slot in the frame, thus allowing it to go further to the rear and taking any pressure off the center pin. The small spring in the back of the thumblatch bar is of no consequence in this regard and does not need to be removed.

[TxD]

The main benefit is to allow the end of the ejector rod to run free. If it's not exactly straight and true, it binds up, rubbing inside the crane. If the end is not constrained, then it will run more central in the hole in the crane. There is not enough friction from the spring plunger in the front end to make any difference. The main source of friction comes from the center pin in the back of the cylinder pushing against the thumblatch bar. You can check to see if yours is doing this by pulling the thumblatch backwards from the rest position with the cylinder closed. Ideally, there will be a little end play so the center pin isn't being compressed by the thumblatch. If it is being compressed, that pushes the cylinder forward against the back end of the crane, causing the cylinder to be harder to turn. This in turn makes the trigger pull heavier. The way to fix this is to either shorten the center pin slightly or file off the back part of the thumblatch where it goes against the slot in the frame, thus allowing it to go further to the rear and taking any pressure off the center pin. The small spring in the back of the thumblatch bar is of no consequence in this regard and does not need to be removed.

Thanks for the replies.

I am shooting a S&W M15 snubby in IDPA matches and would like to lenghten the extractor rod.

I was hoping that the ball/detent crane lock would alow me to remove the front lock up on the barrel and install a longer rod.

It would end up looking somewhat like a Colt Detective Special.

Is this possible?

[Toolguy]

Yes but you will have to cut or mill off the lug under the barrel that the spring and plunger is in to make room for the longer ejector rod. If you have a properly installed ball detent in the crane it will be fine.

[Carmoney]

The factory crane lock system used on some of the Performance Center models works pretty well, but in general the aftermarket crane ball locks don't do a whole lot.

[jmax]

I agree with Mike. In the old days of PPC revolvers it was not uncommon to have 2 detent balls installed for better lockup.

[Toolguy]

If correctly done, one will hold the crane firmly. They are seldom done right.