DustyW Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 If you make an upward bend on the part of the trigger bar that lifts the sear it seems like that would take alot of the trigger take up out because it would raise the sear sooner. But it looks like it also makes the reset longer. Are there any problems that could arise from doing this? And is it more critical to have less take up or a shorter reset. In action shooting, it doesn't seem like the slightly longer reset would make much difference. Of course, the take up probably isn't a big deal either in action shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rentcollector Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Dusty Bending the trigger bar there will remove some of the pretravel at the cost of post travel. IMO you would be better off having little post travel and reset and leaving the pretravel because in action shooting you can always just prep your trigger for most of your shots so you can remove the pretravel anyway. I have done some pretty extensive trigger work to my competition 40 pro 5" to the point where I have totally eliminated all the pre and post travel and have reset to a minimum. I have taken this journey in a series of steps to see how certain changes effected things. And I have found that I like as little reset as I can get because I like to ride the trigger as apposed to trigger slapping and for me the short reset has helped nicely with my ability to have fast splits. I have gotten my splits to less than half of my original times with the stock trigger. Nate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero-down Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I second that what rent says. Bending the trigger bar will take out pre travel but extend overtravel and reset. It took a bunch of trial and error for me as well but a combination of set screws, trigger bar and sear work - I've eliminated most of the pre and overtravel. I decided to have the sear break mostly in the middle of the trigger pull so I could work on both ends (if that makes any sense). I found that I couldn't use the apex sear b/c it breaks so far back in the trigger travel so I worked over stock sears to get what I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rentcollector Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Zero Did you do what Cha-Lee did to his trigger? I did a modified version of that. I have 650rds thru my comp gun and has proven perfectly reliable thus far. All but 50 have been shot in competition and no fails so far. I am even considering offering to do this trigger job for some of my local shooters if it stays as good as it has. I had a little issue with Cha-Lees design at first but with a little mod of my own it is now rock solid. Will even hold up to a chronic trigger masher IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero-down Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Zero Did you do what Cha-Lee did to his trigger? I did a modified version of that. I have 650rds thru my comp gun and has proven perfectly reliable thus far. All but 50 have been shot in competition and no fails so far. I am even considering offering to do this trigger job for some of my local shooters if it stays as good as it has. I had a little issue with Cha-Lees design at first but with a little mod of my own it is now rock solid. Will even hold up to a chronic trigger masher IMO. I had already gone down this path previously when I was building my open gun and came up with a similar design. I put a set screw in the front of the trigger taking out some pre-travel. I also reshaped the trigger hook to allow for the trigger being moved back and timed it with the striker plunger. I then lifted the trigger bar to engage the sear a little earlier and worked over the sear to cut down on weight and grit. And for overtravel I have another set screw in the back part of the frame. I can smash on it all day long and it works great. Once I depress the trigger to clear the safety, its barely any movement and you are on the sear. It breaks clean and stops just past break. Reset is extremely short and unfortunately silent. I'm going to try the apex ram to see if I can get a more tactile reset on it but personally I love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rentcollector Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Sounds like ours is about the same. I would highly recommend the RAM. That made the reset perfect. Its very Glockish. Which in this case is a good thing! :-) I feel my trigger is as good as a DAO trigger can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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