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SLP Lube Question


kend

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I usually clean mine every few hundred rounds and I take out the bolt carrier (if that is what it is called) and take it apart and lube with a small amount of Slip 2000 EWL on my fingers and rub it over, I also do the same with the outside of the tube and inside of the gas piston. I probably have just under 1,000 rounds and it has never had a malfunction (really).

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I have 700 rounds through my MK 1 with ZERO malfunctions, so what I do works for me. Might work for you too.

I use Machine Gunner's Lube from LaRue. Not entirely sure who makes the stuff, but I love it.

I put a layer on the bolt and the carrier. As you shoot the gun more you'll see the shine from wear on the contact points. Put more lube in those spots.

I put a very light layer on all surfaces inside the receiver.

I put a few drops in each of the rails inside the receiver where the bolt carrier rides.

I lube the rubber O-ring in the "collar" on the barrel that the piston fits into.

I very lightly lube the big spring . . . whatever it's actually called.

YMMV, as always.

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I just picked up a used SX2, a version of the SLP. As part of my initial tear down and cleaning, I disassembled the action spring system to clean and lube it.

To do this, first do a regular field strip (barrel, bolt, trigger group, etc.). Then remove the recoil pad with a Philips head screwdriver (you should see two faint marks in the rubber). You should now be able to see the rear of the action spring assembly. Use a 3/4" socket to remove the retaining nut. Behind that is a spacer and a metal plate which should fall out, but may require some gentle coercing. At this point, the stock should come off.

You'll now have the receiver and action tube. Here's where it gets a little tricky since the remaining parts are under spring pressure (you might want to secure the receiver in a padded vise). There's a single roll pin holding it all together. Relieve pressure on the roll pin using a small flathead screwdriver to push the rear of the action spring in slightly. While doing that, push the roll pin out using a punch. The action spring will now want to come out. Try to use a rag or something to ease it out.

The spring will most likely be gross and disgusting. I cleaned the spring tube like I would a bore (scrubbed, then CLP). I wiped down the spring and sprayed it with CLP. Before reassembly, I used some aerosol lithium grease to lube the inside of the tube as well as the spring, and then reassembled.

This made a noticeable difference for me, but mine was a used gun whose receiver resembled a filthy ashtray.

As for other lube points...

-Exterior of mag tube

-Gas piston

-O-ring on the barrel near the gas ports (grease)

-The 'nub' of the tappet assembly that fits into the receiver (grease)

-Bolt

-Bolt carrier

-Receiver bolt rails

-Bolt carrier tail that fits into the action spring (grease)

-Trigger group pins

-Shell lifter hinges

-Shell catch. This is the part under the ejection port that resembles a see-saw. It pivots pack and forth as the gun fires to release a shell from the mag. I lube the edges where it fits into the receiver.

-Choke tube threads (anti-seize)

-Anything shiny from rubbing parts

Take this with a grain of salt. I have about 250 rounds through my SX2. It works great if I use heavier loads. Lighter loads have erratic ejection, stovepipes, etc. It seems the minimum load is 1 1/8 oz of shot at ~1250fps (~3 1/4 dram equivalent). I'll probably have to bybass the Federal bulk packs my 870 loved in favor of some of the more powerful Super X or AA loads. I ran some AA 1 1/8 oz @ 1300 fps through it - cycled quickly with strong ejection.

I'm debating buying one of the lighter pistons. I called the Winchester tech line and they said not to do it because those pistons are designed for specific guns and "the internals are different". I'm giving that a side-eye because according to their parts lists, none of the recoil system parts vary from gun to gun.

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