TheCaryBrassGuy

hey there all, I picked up a Dillon Super 1050 that had a Mark7 1050 X auto drive on it. when it boots up I hit the calibrate button and the tablet doesn't even respond. Other buttons do however respond just fine. As a test I tried putting my other tablet from the 1050 Pro auto drive and it wouldn't even connect. Curious if anyone has the firmware / software for the 1050 X since Mark7 doesn't have it on their website anymore and they are closed for christmas now. thanks, Adam

I have tried this and can say that they in no way come out as clean as they would with the pins. The other reason I love the pins and will keep using them is that after trimming brass (Especially a cut from 5.56x45 down to .300BO), if I run them in the steel pins for 3 hours I won't have to run a deburr or camfer on the cases. thats a huge timesaver when running thousands of cases.

Correct, they don't, but I have over 2 million cases in my shop right now, if I just use this to take pictures and uploaded them to an online folder, they could categorize them for the NN training exercise.

Any word on the availability of how to train the NN ? I am thinking it may be something we can crowd source or outsource to India to get a few hundred thousand pictures into the trainer.. Also - have you guys had any luck getting it to tell the difference between a small primer pocket and a large one?

I currently am leveraging the RL1100 with Mark7 auto drive for Case Processing purposes. Typically for the final full length sizing of the brass after it has been decapped, cleaned, rollsized. The key things I can say: 1) For 9mm Luger, even with my dillon carbide dies and CLEAN brass, I MUST lube the cases. I use some hornady one-shot, but your lube of choice "should" work. Otherwise the machine has to have the digital clutch set VERY HIGH and it will still stop too many times an hour. It runs most reliably for me at a digital clutch of 4-6 and 2000 cases per hour. 2) You WILL bend the shoulder bolt that is labeled #8 on page 76 of your manual eventually. Thankfully, you can get these at ace hardware. Dillon told me this is the #1 issue that is caused by the auto drive because when a jam occurs and you have the digital clutch set too high it will try to force it to index and that is the weakest part. 3) You absolutely need to double check the set screw on the drive sprocket of the Mark7. In my case it came loose and the sprocket had kind of walked its way into the motor causing it to grind and not function properly. 4) Cleaning and lubing the dillon frequently is important. The only thing I wish Mark7 had that they don't is a way to kick out brass after the swage sense sensor detects a ringer or small pocket. Unfortunately they don't have such a thing.

As a small commercial brass processor and authorized reseller the Rollsizer products, I would say that the statement above is accurate depending on what you are trying to process. Having bent / broke more pins / rods than I care to count from running the machine at or above its limitations, I have a few tips and tricks to share 1) It is very critical that you get the brass sorted properly BEFORE it goes into the decapper. Trying to get the .22LR off from the pin, and out of the .32 that is nested in a 9, that is nested in a 40, that is nested in a 45 is shall we say difficult. 2) It will run a bit better if it has already been dry tumbled in walnut or corn cob media. While you "CAN" run really dirty brass through it, that ends up getting on the linear guides for the push rod or the guide for the FW Arms Die 3) I can run fastest (As in full speed on the dial) on brass with large primers because they typically have large flash holes. Where I get in trouble is with that Norma brass crap on 9mm. This stuff will stick on the decapping pin every, single time and then jam up the whole machine. Usually looks like this - So to counter that I worked with a local machine shop in North Carolina to develop a modified wear plate that we use when we run 9mm - This is essentially a shell holder that works for 9mm only that is holding the case down so that when the norma brass gets stuck on the pin that it will have something holding it down as the machine is on its upstroke. Note - This design is not perfect, it causes a separate issue that we are still working on, but it helps significantly. 4) You will break pins constantly if you run the machine too hard, and if it starts to get bent but doesn't break, it will bend or warp the rod from FW Arms next. Thankfully you can order both pins and rods directly from FW arms without paying the international fees. Overall this product is really cool and has helped us automate / increase our processing significantly, but as another poster said, you cannot leave it unattended, and it does require a bit of TLC to keep it running optimally.