Scoterbeast
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Posts posted by Scoterbeast
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oooohhh yeahh we got in!!!
barb, ill bring your chocolates in november, see you!!
At 33 I am not holding out much hope - sure did want to shoot it - hear its a real hoot!
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Just got a Ghost for my SVI limited gun. Positioning adjustments pretty straightforward. Not so sure of the adjustment of the little white nylon screws. Backed out the one on the inside(front of trigger guard) to take slop out. Backed out two on top so bottom of frame touches them. Not so sure of larger one on front so backed it out when did the inside one and then tightened it back down. Doesn't seem to be an adjustment for tensioning the release. Feels good and locks securely. How did I do???
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I am told the new Winchester pistol primers are softer. Have not tried them myself - any info on them out there???
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Its hard for me to figure out why someone would want to shoot a local classifier only match multiple times and then pick out the best ones to submit. Shooting a classifier as a single stage at a sanctioned event is a much better benchmark of your current skill. Sometimes you will do well, sometimes you may not - isn't that how it normally works out? I've got one full shooting season under my belt now and I want to be classified per my skill level. Maybe someday I can actually win something that way (I'm starting to doubt that though). Anyway, I come from a shooting sport where sandbagging was very prevalent - I see a few in this sport but does'nt seem as many. The reverse sandbagging to shoot in a class over your head just doesn't make much sense to me. Oh well, I'm still learning.
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The more I think about the classification system the less I feel it has to do with the skills of our sport. First and foremost, in my mind, is movement... every classifier I've seen you stand on one place and bang away. When was the last time you shot a COF and stood in one place? Unless a course designer wants to tweak people, when is the lst time you had a weak hand only stage, or a strong hand only? It seems more IPDA. More of a defense type thing if you were shot in one arm and were forced to shoot with the other.
Also, I have heard the term "classifier management" in the sport. I'm not sure what the answer is maybe something of the percentages of regular COFs taken with the class of shooters you are shooting against averaged with classifier type stages. This would involve more of the skills you use shooting the sport. Also, I'm seen a few paper Ms in my short time in the sport. I just know they got the class by pounding the classifiers until they could shoot them blind folded. I'm not saying I have a better answer, only that I think it deserves some thought by people above my pay grade to look into it and see if there might be something more indicative of what we do. If they could somehow classify during regular courses of fire, and I know about the three GM rule at higher level event ; If we could do an average of the two we might find a better representation of true ability, and help reduce paper classes and "classifier management."
I know people that have spent a long time under the current system might have a, "That's always the way it's been done" attitude, but I would ask that you suspend that knee jerk and think openly about a better solution. I'm not sure there is one, but I think it's worth consideration.
Thanks,
JT
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And that is why half this game is 90% mental.
Amen to shooting "your"game and the mental aspect of shooting a stage to the best of your ability. It seems my best stages are always shot the way I had planned before the buzzer went off. As I am a new shooter my skills are pretty limited at this point. When a stage "just feels good" and I shoot within myself - things go good for me. Good accuracy, no penalties, as fast as my skills will allow me is my goal. IF I COULD ONLY QUIT BLOWING A COUPLE STAGES AT EACH SHOOT !!!!!!!!!!
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I've been watching the debate about the three pound trigger rule for Production. I'm curious what the membership thinks the differences are between the concepts for Production and Limited 10. Obviously, the holsters and gear are different. I'm really asking only about the guns themselves. Please limit the debate to just the guns. Are the practical distinctions between most guns in these divisions really that dissimilar?
Flexmoney makes a very valid point in that MANY 2011 platforms have a problem if you run the magazine dry. In the game we play, reliability is paramount. Bullets gotta go downrange when you pull the trigger and the empty has to extract properly for you to be competetive in any class. Make sure your limited gun is up to the task if you use it for limited 10.
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ORDERED TWO SPS MAGS WITH GRAMS FOLLOWER AND BASE PAD TO TRY THEM OUT. AM TOLD CAN LOAD 21 IN MAG AND WITH ONE UP THE PIPE CAN START BLASTING WITH 22 ROUNDS ! OH BOY ! ANY ONE OUT THERE USING THESE - WHAT KIND OF EXPERIENCE HAVE YOU HAD WITH THEM? AM TOLD PERHAPS CANNOT LOAD AS LONG ( 1.220) WITH THEM AS I DO NOW WITH MY SV MAGS IN MY SV.
Been playing with the two SPS mags I wrote about. So far can only load 20 in them. I have shot my standard loaded 1.220 loads (Montana Gold 180 FP's) as well as same loads at 1.185. They have all fed just fine so far. Only had time to put 50 or so of each through the gun using these mags so jury still out. Won't use them in competition yet but gonna play with them and will report on what actually works and doesn't work. By working I mean 100% reliable which is what I expect.
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ORDERED TWO SPS MAGS WITH GRAMS FOLLOWER AND BASE PAD TO TRY THEM OUT. AM TOLD CAN LOAD 21 IN MAG AND WITH ONE UP THE PIPE CAN START BLASTING WITH 22 ROUNDS ! OH BOY ! ANY ONE OUT THERE USING THESE - WHAT KIND OF EXPERIENCE HAVE YOU HAD WITH THEM? AM TOLD PERHAPS CANNOT LOAD AS LONG ( 1.220) WITH THEM AS I DO NOW WITH MY SV MAGS IN MY SV.
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I'm new to reloading. I have a Dillon 650 with all Dillon dies, took lots of time to set it up right. And have been quite pleased with the results. However, I have a little problem that I can't figure out.
I have a S&W 625 revolver. I load up moon clips with factory Remington UMC .45 ACP and they drop right in and I close the cylinder and fire away. I've been collecting the brass for a few months, finally got all my reloading equipment and went to town. Problem is, when I put my reloads in the moon clips (plastic Rimz) they don't want to drop right in; I need to push them to seat them all the way. The bind to the cyclinder and I have to give a good push the ejector rod to get them out (with and with out firing). This doesn't happen with factory ammo.
Here are some specs:
Remington brass (once fired, was tumbled in Lyman treated corn cob media for about 5 hours, did not trim)
Rainier Copper plated 230 grain RN
Cartridge lengths before loading (average) 0.890.
O.A.L is 1.265"
diameter at neck is 0.468"
diameter midway down case is 0.468"
diameter at base above the taper to the rim is 0.473"
At first I though that I didn't crimp enough to straighten out the belling. So I adjusted the crimp die a bit. That didn't help. the cartridges always get down about 3/4 to 7/8 of the way into the cylinder before the stick. I have to push them in maybe the final 1/8". I don't have a case gauge yet, but one is being shipped as we speak.
Thanks for any help,
Chris
I am one of the local guys that had the "tight cylinder syndrome" Mike C put his magic reamer to work - Thanks, Mike! - now when I moon clip any of my check guaged loads for my Kimber, they pop right in. Had to make no changes to the load dimensions. I would heartily suggest anyone with similar problems to take mike up on his offer to hone your cylinder. It is sooo nice to be able to use my other 45 loads in the 625 (after hand seating the fed primers that is)
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I'm new to reloading. I have a Dillon 650 with all Dillon dies, took lots of time to set it up right. And have been quite pleased with the results. However, I have a little problem that I can't figure out.
I have a S&W 625 revolver. I load up moon clips with factory Remington UMC .45 ACP and they drop right in and I close the cylinder and fire away. I've been collecting the brass for a few months, finally got all my reloading equipment and went to town. Problem is, when I put my reloads in the moon clips (plastic Rimz) they don't want to drop right in; I need to push them to seat them all the way. The bind to the cyclinder and I have to give a good push the ejector rod to get them out (with and with out firing). This doesn't happen with factory ammo.
Here are some specs:
Remington brass (once fired, was tumbled in Lyman treated corn cob media for about 5 hours, did not trim)
Rainier Copper plated 230 grain RN
Cartridge lengths before loading (average) 0.890.
O.A.L is 1.265"
diameter at neck is 0.468"
diameter midway down case is 0.468"
diameter at base above the taper to the rim is 0.473"
At first I though that I didn't crimp enough to straighten out the belling. So I adjusted the crimp die a bit. That didn't help. the cartridges always get down about 3/4 to 7/8 of the way into the cylinder before the stick. I have to push them in maybe the final 1/8". I don't have a case gauge yet, but one is being shipped as we speak.
Thanks for any help,
Chris
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Well after 2 or 3 years of "I am ordering a new Dillon in a few days" I have really done it! Just a matter of taking the time to do the total research all at once and then following through with the order.
My Question......When my packages arrive, what should I do first? It will be confusing to me as I have never met a Dillon in person. Here on my floor will be several boxes (I assume two or three or maybe more) I want to dig in and yes I will read the directions first, but any tips for me that maybe would have helped you when your Dillon arrived?
Strange question aeh?
Example - How do I hide it from the wife etc. Oh, sorry, it's a 550 with a few options all related directly to the press. No books, scales, guages, Brasso etc.
Thanks for any comments.
All good suggestions. I too bought a 550B last year as my first metalic reloader (had loaded tons of shotshells before). I would recommend the video too. Unpack, spread all the goodies out, assemble per instructions, take your time and I have no doubt you will be as pleased with your machine as I have been. I would suggest you spray your cleaned brass with One Shot case lube before you load. I have loaded with and without it - I really prefer how the machine feels using that stuff. LIke all of us out here you will find things you like and don't like as you progress - once you get started you can make educated decisions on all the products out there. Have fun!!
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I am thinking of starting to reload. I want to research and learn as much as I can before I make my decision and the initial investment. I know that if I make this step I will purchase a Dillon 550 press and a case cleaner. What I am needing guidance with is what is a good brand of bullet to use for 40 cal? I have been looking on the internet and there are several brands. I am looking to find out which brands I would want to stay away from and which are good to purchase. The brass I will pick up at the range when possible. I am also looking for a good site in the internet to order from that is cheap. Speaking of cheap does reloading really save any money? I know it will give you a custom load which I like but will it really save me money? I know the initial investment will be huge but I am ok with that part. Looking at all the info is giving me brain overload
I guess what I am looking for is a good place to buy supplies and what are good brands of supplies will be good to use. Thanks for any help and knowledge you can offer.
IF YOU HAVE NOT ALREADY, JOIN A LOCAL SHOOTING CLUB, OR A GROUP THAT SHOOTS LIKE YOU WANT TO SHOOT. BEST INFORMATION AND COMPONENT BUYING POWER IS RIGHT THERE. YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT THE AMOUNT OF EXPERTISE THAT EXISTS IN YOUR OWN BACK YARD. SHOOT ALOT WITH PEOPLE WHO KNOW HOW TO SHOOT - ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS - SHOOT WITH THE BEST SHOOTERS IF YOU CAN. TAKE SHOOTING AND RELOADING ADVICE FROM THOSE WHO SHOOT WELL AND WHOSE GUNS RUN KNOCK DOWN RELIABLY AND YOU WON'T GO WRONG. I WOULD ALSO GIVE THE SAME ADVICE FOR BUYING AND UPGRADING EQUIPMENT AS YOU GROW IN THE SPORT. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE A GREAT TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!
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I BOUGHT A USED 40 LIMITED INFINITY. PREVIOUS OWNER SAID IT LIKED GOOD AMMO LOADED TO 1.220 - I LOAD TO THIS LENGTH AND RUN ALL ROUNDS THROUGH MY CHECK GAUGE. IT RUNS VERY RELIABLY AND I COULD NOT BE MORE HAPPY WITH THE GUN. MY QUESTION IS - BESIDES THE RELIABILITY FACTOR WITH INDIVIDUAL GUNS, WHAT ARE THE REASONS FOR THE COMMON PRACTICE OF LOADING CONSIDERABLY LONGER THAN FACTORY SPECS?
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From one small-handed shooter to another ... been there, done that with the fingernails.
1. Trim the nails, that suggestion isn't being smart-alecky. I've dug up the palm of my left hand, AND that makes the left hand grip 'let go' because of the pain on recoil.
2. Not sure what gun you're shooting. I started with some big double-stack thing owned by a friend and it clearly was the wrong gun. Had much more success learning on a 1911. Moved to an XD (some would suggest that an M&P might be a good choice) because that's a slimmer-grip double stack. Working up to a '2011' now that the fundamentals are better learned and I'm figuring out how to manage flinch, recoil, etc.
A lot of ranges that rent guns will have a 1911 and others mentioned above available to try. Start with dry fire, get your grip learned reliably, then move to live fire to see how it works with the flash-bang-recoil. Lots of stuff elsewhere on the forum about mechanics of grip technique.
Good luck. This is do-able.
Ditto on nail trimming! Seriously, experienced same thing when nails got little long. Sound goofy but now keep nail trimmer in bag - if feel this - give them quick trim.
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I'm currently having ammunition problems with my 45 ACP revolver: the bullets are walking forward in the cases and even getting wedged into the free bore immediately in front of the chamber. The load is: 230 grain H&N high-speed (copper and plastic coated) truncated cone set with the shoulder about a 10th of an inch out of the case (to help speedy reloads), 4.1 grain Vectan Ba10 (N310/ bullseye equivalent). Die set is Lee Carbide, with their factory crimp to actually achieve the crimp (taper), set as per the instructions. the cases are mixed, around 4-6 reloads.
Is the solution more crimp? or will that have a negative effect on accuracy by swaging the bullet down slightly? switch to FMJ? Both?
This was a rather embarrassing problem at last weekend's match, and cost me the match...
My new 625 did not like the 45's I load for my Kimber. They would not pop in the chambers. After little research, I got a Lee crimp die which full lenght sizes in the crimp cycle. Cranked it down to crimp more too. Works like charm. My moon clips full of rounds pop right in like I know what I am doing. Now if only I can learn to shoot the thing!
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I think the ultimate priming tool for the wheelgunner is a Dillon 1050, which primes on the downstroke and allows every single primer to be properly below-flush-crush-seated with perfect consistency.
Someday when my ship comes in I hope to own one of those babies....
I think the ultimate priming tool for the wheelgunner is a Dillon 1050, which primes on the downstroke and allows every single primer to be properly below-flush-crush-seated with perfect consistency.Someday when my ship comes in I hope to own one of those babies....
Mike, you are sailing your ship now! It is all good
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Well, I got the new wheel gun and getting geared up. Looks like I need a hand priming tool to seat those Federal 150's below flush. Which one do I buy???
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Was able to get 8m Federal 150's other day - but was everything my supplier had which was everything his supplier had! Tells me Federal and CCI owned by same company that has big military quota to fill - He not having much trouble with WW but Federal's are impossible to get and may be like that for awhile. If you find them and need the Fed's (especially you revolver guys) better scarf them up.
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Currently using N320 and Master Blaster Poly's - using 4.6 to get to majoy - loading long (1.220) works good. Powder pricey but nice loads - bullets reasonably priced.
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Almost got minored at big shoot. My cheapie chrono said I was in good shape - what do you guys recommend when I update. Want a unit I can depend on.
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Has anyone shot these bullets for an extended period of time in an AET barrel?
I have discussed this with Wil Scheuman. Wil has not tested this bullet for wear on AET barrels. As per David Long of Precision Bullets the baked on proprietary finish on thier bullets do not contain graphite or silica like some of the moly lubes used on other moly coated bullets. He dosen't think it will wear the barrel any more than a lead bullet does.
They have several Scheuman barrels(non AET) that they have tested and experienced no accuracy problems from the use of these bullets.
I would like to hear from someone that has used these bullets and what difference was noticed if any between these and jacketed bullets.
Thanks
Have shot fair amount of both Master Blasters in my Sv and Bear Creek's in my Kimber - like them and they are cheap - got tired of the mess with lead and escalating price of jacketed
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Here's an option that "kinda" gives you best of both worlds for reasonable amount of money. Buy a stock edge with nothing done to it. Have it sent to your pistolsmith (if you are fortunate to have a good one locally who comes recommended by your top shooters). Have him give it and your mags his TLC so it will run like a machine. That said , those full out customs sure are cool!!!!
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Bought a 550 last year (my first season shooting USPSA) great machine - have complete tool head/powder measure for 40 and 45 - all that I need at this point - no regrets
Example - How do I hide it from the wife etc.
Looking for new Powder suggestions
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
My current load for Major in 40 S & W is as follows:
Svi with Svi barrel
4.9 g of V320
Montana Gold 180 RNFP
1.185 oal
169 power factor (at recent area 5 chrono)
Nice load