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Scoterbeast

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Posts posted by Scoterbeast

  1. UPS guy delivered my STI/Marvel 22 conversion kit today. Slid it on my Kimber and ran over to range. I think temp was about 20 and windy so I didn't stay long. Ran 100 rounds through it using all 5 mags I bought - not a hitch. Seems like a nice unit. Pretty impressed with it so far. Like using my 1911 platform and shooting 22's. Next will try it on one of my 2011's (after I get couple of mags)

    Bill

  2. Shot them all, owned most of them at one time or another. 682's probably best competition gun for the money (kinda breaks bank but not like the Italians or Germans). Buy what fits you if you can't afford or don't want to have stock work done. IMO the SKB (or Weatherby) configuration is very user friendly and a bargain in the O/U world. I like that lower profile receiver much better than the Citori's. Oh yea, If you buy something because it feels great in the store, but you can't shoot it - sell it - get something that works for you!

  3. Gonna get a bi-pod for bench shooting primarily. Probably a Harris. Have couple of questions:

    Should I get the swivel mount?

    Pro's - Con's on getting stud mount unit?

    Have JP V-Tac handguard with studs attached - any problems with attachment to this?

    Is the 6" to 9" model the lenth I want for this application?

    Any suggestions or insight greatly appreciated.

    Bill

  4. I drank this crap.

    http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/29/37389

    I saw it. Thought...hmmm it sounds so bad, that it just can't really be that bad.

    .chelada-1259.jpg

    Back in 1970 (yes, I am somewhat old) I was stationed at Ft Carson in Colorado Springs. We used to go regularly to some country western bar and drink the local drink which was Snappy Tom (tomato juice with tobasco in it I believe) and beer. At the time it seemed like pretty good stuff. Can,t say as I have tried it since.

  5. I was just remembering a drill that taught me a lot.

    Set up two IPSC paper targets at 50 yards.

    Shoot 10 shots at the left target, then 10 shots at the right target.

    The goal is to shoot the smallest 10-shot group possible on each target.

    Shoot shot slow fire.

    Raise and lower your gun for each shot.

    Take all the time you need for each shot to the most accurate shot possible.

    For the left target, be sure you are focused right on the target at the instant the shot breaks. For each shot, set up your grip and position, then lower the gun and mentally review what you are going to do - Look right at the center of the target, raise the gun, align the sights (you may go back and forth from the target to the sights a time or two to be sure you have the best alignment possible in the center of the target), then bring the target into focus and hold as still as possible until the shot fires. (You'll still be aware of a coarse sight alignment, the sights will just look blurry because you are focused on the target.) Repeat 9 more times.

    For the right target, be sure you are looking right at the front sight at the instant the shot breaks. For each shot, set up your grip and position, then lower the gun and mentally review what you are going to do - Look right at the center of the target, raise the gun, align the sights (you may go back and forth from the target to the sights a time or two to be sure you have the best alignment possible in the center of the target), then look right at the front sight until the shot fires.

    Walk down and check out the targets.

    Also do the exact same drill at 25 yards, then at 15 yards.

    be

    Being nearsighted, my shooting glasses are corrected to give me accuity on the front sight with the target down range being not that sharply focused. Would you suggest I wear my normal correction on the left target to see it clearly in focus to do the drill properly?

  6. Just getting ready to set up the dillon 550b tool head

    to load 38 special for my new carmonized 627 pro.

    I will be shooting lead swc/ lead double end wad cuttr/

    and lrn all 148-158 grn. should i bother getting the

    Redding precision micrometer bullet seating die. I also

    plan to resize/decap then brush out the pockets and

    seat the primers by hand then the rest on another tool

    head for powder/bullet/crimp.dang does this sound

    anal or what.

    I really like the repeatability of the Redding die. Yes it is little tougher to clean but if decide to change bullets or seating depths its a snap to change if you keep records.

  7. Hi folks,

    today 2nd live fire session with my friend and his new "jam-o-matic" Shadow ... :rolleyes:

    The situation it's a little bit better: today he's used MY rounds (FMJ RN-bullet, 147 grs, OAL=29,50 mm.) and he suffered only a 10% of feeding problems, due to small amount of bulged-near-the-base cases ....

    I reload with a Super 1050, and probably my Dillon sizing die is better fitted than my friend's one on his XL 650.

    Anyway it's evident that the Shadow's chamber in VEEERY precise: all the rounds rejected were successfully fired by my Tanfoglio Stock 2 :D:D:D

    At this point we really would like to try the famous "undersize sizing die" from EGW: does anyone have any experience with it ?

    The U die is the cats meow! It is so good that I no longer use my check guage! Sounds like you need one - doubt if you will be disappointed.

  8. I ordered a 650 last Friday with pretty much everything on the 550 never reloaded before easy buy page and today I ordered some N320 and Clays, Federal 150 primers, Berry's 230gr rn bullets, and some new brass.

    Now I need some advice on getting a reloading bench set up. I am in an apartment so I am not going to be able to mount anything to the wall and I would prefer something smallish that can be easily moved. I am going to have to lug whatever I get up three flights of stairs. I looked at a couple of work benches at Lowes but everything seemed a little bit flimsy, I did see one modular steel and stogage rack with plywood shelves in a steel frame that was pretty sturdy but was also really heavy.

    Does anybody have a recommendation for something small and workable for a tight spot in an apartment?

    Thanks.

    As reloading benches go - HEAVIER IS BETTER - bench or machine movement is your enemy. Build the heaviest and most sturdy unit you can - you will turn out better and more consistant loads - and be happy!

  9. I've been experimenting lately. Bought pair of Burner Grips too. Like the texture fine but boy these got by the QC guys I guess. Not uniform at all as one much thicker than other and screw holes are almost too big. Eric's grip tape over smooth Aluma-Grips is my current favorite.

  10. I've got 9 hi-cap 9mm mags for my M&P and 8 hi cap 9mm mags for my Glock 34. Never had a mag failure with either gun using any one of those mags so I'm probably overly cautions with all those extras. It is nice to have a few loaded and ready to go at a match in case I run into an issue with a reshoot or something.

    Now my Limited gun is a 2011 STI built by Derek at Millennium. I ordered it with 4 tuned STI mags with dawson bases and have since added an additional stock STI tube with a dawson base just to try a stock one vs. my tuned ones. My limited experience shows that tuning does have some definite benefits from a reliability standpoint.

    I just ordered two of the DocterUSA SPS/Grahms tube and basepad kits to try them out. They supposedly load 21 .40SW but I can only get 20 in each of them. And they do not drop free on their own unless fully loaded. Looks like another tuning issue to address but I'm not sure if I'll attempt it myself or have Grahms do the tune since he designed the basepads for these puppies.

    If the SPS tubes work out to be 21 loadable and even better if they are 21 reloadable for some added flexibility then I'll probably try more of them til I have a good comfort margin of say 10 mags. If not then I'll most likely opt to try some SVI tubes to see how they work out. Someone's always selling or buying tubes so I figured it's good to experiment a little to see what I like and what the gun likes.

    I ordered couple of the SPS mags and they work fine. 21 reloadable is little iffy but can be done. Can Not Load Them Long! If you are loading long (1.220) they are not way to go. 1.175 maybe 1.185 is about as long as they recommend.

  11. I've got 9 hi-cap 9mm mags for my M&P and 8 hi cap 9mm mags for my Glock 34. Never had a mag failure with either gun using any one of those mags so I'm probably overly cautions with all those extras. It is nice to have a few loaded and ready to go at a match in case I run into an issue with a reshoot or something.

    Now my Limited gun is a 2011 STI built by Derek at Millennium. I ordered it with 4 tuned STI mags with dawson bases and have since added an additional stock STI tube with a dawson base just to try a stock one vs. my tuned ones. My limited experience shows that tuning does have some definite benefits from a reliability standpoint.

    I just ordered two of the DocterUSA SPS/Grahms tube and basepad kits to try them out. They supposedly load 21 .40SW but I can only get 20 in each of them. And they do not drop free on their own unless fully loaded. Looks like another tuning issue to address but I'm not sure if I'll attempt it myself or have Grahms do the tune since he designed the basepads for these puppies.

    If the SPS tubes work out to be 21 loadable and even better if they are 21 reloadable for some added flexibility then I'll probably try more of them til I have a good comfort margin of say 10 mags. If not then I'll most likely opt to try some SVI tubes to see how they work out. Someone's always selling or buying tubes so I figured it's good to experiment a little to see what I like and what the gun likes.

  12. My Dillon 650 has gone unused for several months, and I've finally run out of ammo since my last reloading binge. I've gone through the process of checking my settings, and I can't get my seating die to work properly. It keeps seating the bullets too far into the case, OAL 1.12-1.14, then some others at the more appropriate goal OAL of 1.25. I've taken the die apart, cleaned it with solvent, and re-oiled it. I never had this problem before. I've even reduced the amout of bell from the powder die just to make sure it wasn't to blame on cases getting opened too far.

    I would really appreciate suggestions, asap. Otherwise, I've got to go waste money on walmart white box.

    Chris

    Merlin hit it - I have done the same thing when getting away from the bench for awhile. Gotta resize at station one before trying to reset your oal. Glad you got squared away - drives you nuts if you can't figure it out!

  13. Gonna get some new STI mag bodies for new STI limited gun being built. I don't want the slide to lock back on an empty magazine with this pistol. Which followers lend themselves best to this? Have heard couple reports on Dawson followers doing this well but have to use stock STI spirngs - don't know if this is true or not?

  14. 2.5 grains might be o.k., especially loading long. It would really help if you could find someone with a chrono to hook up with. Even the basic models can give you plenty of information and avoid the guessing game.

    You are right that you can't assume a linear change in pressures and velocities when working up a load. To many variables in barrels, brass, and loading componants. I think you're safe in assuming a general trend up or down, but by how much is really a wild ass guess without a chrono.

    Let us know what you come up with.

    Can do. I did some researching and found a load with precision moly 220grn loaded with 3.8grns N320 with an oal of 1.185 getting 177 pf. I have loaded mine out to 1.19 and am currently starting at 3.0grns of N320. I think I am going to just break down and buy myself a cheapy chrono for xmas early and will be sure to update on what my load is. Thanks for all the help guys.

    I have a basic Chrony unit that I don't use anymore. Think they are about $65 new. Used maybe 3 times. Would sell it to you if you are interested

  15. 2.5 grains might be o.k., especially loading long. It would really help if you could find someone with a chrono to hook up with. Even the basic models can give you plenty of information and avoid the guessing game.

    You are right that you can't assume a linear change in pressures and velocities when working up a load. To many variables in barrels, brass, and loading componants. I think you're safe in assuming a general trend up or down, but by how much is really a wild ass guess without a chrono.

    Let us know what you come up with.

    Can do. I did some researching and found a load with precision moly 220grn loaded with 3.8grns N320 with an oal of 1.185 getting 177 pf. I have loaded mine out to 1.19 and am currently starting at 3.0grns of N320. I think I am going to just break down and buy myself a cheapy chrono for xmas early and will be sure to update on what my load is. Thanks for all the help guys.

  16. So it would seem to me, the newb having never reloaded anything in his life (but having a 650 mounted on work bench in varrying stages of assembly the past week) that a chronograph is indeed a mandatory piece of reloading equipment. - especially if you are loading for IPSC.

    Everything I've read regarding load data talks about 'working your load up', or starting slow and building up, etc. It seems that if your goal is to make a load that has a certain power factor (130) out of your particular gun that you'll need to chrono the varrying stages of 'working up the load' so you end up where you want. Or am I missing something. Is a chrono mandatory?

    Get yourself one - you will do it sooner or later if you play this game. I would suggest if you can afford it you get a good one. I am sure your experienced shooting buddies can point you in the right direction.

  17. Looks like gonna buy an AR. Will be putting a dot type sight on it (is flat top). Maybe go with a cheap Simmons dot to start as I hear they work good and are inexpensive. Perhaps and Eotech or similar later on. Question is, the simmons has built in scope mount - does it go right on the rail or do I need to add a rail that raises it. If so, how high do I go. Seems like lots of variations out there.

  18. I just got back from the range cronoing the some loads.

    Ive been running Zero, X-treme (west cost) and berrys plated for some time now around 950-960 FPS to be on the safe side. I used the same charge for some Master Blaster boolits today and my velocitys jumped to around 1020 with a butt load of smoke for outdoors and alot of leading.

    Is this common? Just to make sure I cronoed some of my jacketed and plated stuff with the same 950-960 range.

    Im running 4.6 grains of N320 with federal small pistol primers OAL is 1.130" and a storm lake Glock 35 barrel.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    g10

    Was making major (168 PF) with master blasters at 4.5/4.6 of N320. Need 4.9 to get same PF out of Montana Gold jacketed.

  19. In another life, I was at the Grand American Trap Shoot in Vandalia, Oh. I am told it is the largest competetive shooting tournament in the world. Saw one of the big time AA shooters with his new Perazzi put the barrel in an open receiver hitch and bend the barrel up. Really leaned on it - crinkled the rib and screwed up the forearm attachment in the process. But got it to shoot high like he wanted it. About a $10m gun. My limited gun is pretty, I get compliments on it - I like it that way - but then I basically suck at this game.

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