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elenius

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Posts posted by elenius

  1. Para makes a steel and an aluminum frame, about 10 onces difference in the two, you definitely want the steel framed version, to my knowledge all 1640's are steel, there are alloy aluminum 1445's as well as the commander and shorter models that come in both. The new 1640's are great game guns, add a funnel and go shoot.

    Aaah, thanks, that explains it.

  2. I looked at a para 1445 at the gun store today, and the guy there told me it has an aluminum frame. Is this true? If so, how does it stand up to harsh IPSC usage?

    I'm debating with myself whether I should get a 1640. Everybody needs a widebody, right? (And this is one of exactly two widebodies available in CA!).

    Would it be a good excuse that the CA approval expires on 8/11? I'm sure it'll go back on the list, but I need an excuse :D

  3. I gave up on the "race holsters", had one fall out and got DQ'd, they always felt like they were a little bump from falling out.

    Blade-Tech DOH for me for Limited, Blade-Tech without the DOH for Single Stack.

    These, with proper dry fire training WILL NOT slow you down, better draw machanics will result anyway.

    Yeah, I'll probably stick with my DOH.

    BTW, anyone else have a problem with the screws between the belt slide and the DOH attachment coming loose? I lost one, of them before I noticed, had to call Bladetech to get a new one. I could locktite it, but then it won't be very easy to switch between single stack and l10 divisions by just removing the DOH attachment...

  4. 200 grn Rainier Plated SWC

    Clays @ 3.8, 4.0, & 4.2 to start

    OAL 1.21" (this may change pending how the bullet looks seated in the case)

    Winchester LPP's

    Winchester brass once fired

    I was able to chrono the above rounds, not good though.

    I changed the OAL to 1.22, the best I got out of these was 833 fps but then again it was a spike. I went up to 4.4 grn's of Clays and 1.26 OAL. This recipie looked like the 4.2 load @ 1.22. I'll stick with the 1.26 OAL (because the bullet looked good seated) and bump the grn's to 4.6.

    Be careful with Clays! For 200gr LSWC, Hodgon lists, 4.3 grains as MAX (for a velocity of 888fps, i.e. PF 177), and this is with an OAL of 1.225". You do have a longer OAL, and things may be a little different with plated vs lead bullets, but I would be very careful over the max load with Clays.

    FWIW, I also chrono'd a couple of similar loads last weekend:

    200 gr LSWC Precision bullet

    Winchester LPP

    4.2 gr Clays

    1.240" OAL

    Velocity: 814fps avg, 13fps SD (on a 10 shot string) --> PF 163

    200 gr RNF Precision bullet

    Winchester LPP

    4.2 gr Clays

    1.235" OAL

    Velocity: 779fps avg, 21fps SD (on a 10 shot string) --> PF 156

    Even though the OALs are almost the same, the SWCs have a higher proportion of their mass inside the case, therefore reducing the remaining case volume and increasing the pressure. Plus SWCs are supposed to be a little faster than RNs anyway I think.

    I am going to try the SWCs with 4.3 gr next time. Maybe load them a tiny bit shorter, but I can't go much shorter before the wide part of the bullet goes past the edge of the case.

    Daniel

  5. :rolleyes: Actually, they have a different model for S_Is.

    Perhaps I should check out a CR Speed...

    Thanks for the input.

    :surprise: All this time i thought the model i had worked for both 1911 and 2011 frames. I'll make sure not to use the kimber in the ghost anymore. Though when i was using the ghost S_I model and kimber combo, i adjusted the 2 upper small white screws to prevent that 90 degree forward problem.

    I did that, but it only helped to a certain degree. I can still do the 90 degree flip, there's just a bit more resistance.

    Angus agreed to take it back for a refund, so I'm doing that.

  6. I tried the ghost also with my kimber L10 and never was comfortable. Always had my hand on the gun to make sure it didn't fall out. A CR speed adjusted properly is very safe. Or a kydex holster to be safer. Or you could get a STI/SVI to fit the holster ;) . I went with the last option :P .

    :rolleyes: Actually, they have a different model for S_Is.

    Perhaps I should check out a CR Speed...

    Thanks for the input.

  7. I agree with you to some extent. Shooting 4.0 gr of TG with the 185 Precision bullet makes a lot of smoke! I think it is more of the powder burning than using a moly coated bullet.

    And it leaves the gun absolutely filthy too, both inside and out.

    A lesson I learned about factory load data is that it gets you ballpark figures. Take another look at the Clays targets and note the velocity of each increment in comparision to the factory load data. You will see a distinct difference of what I shot verses what the factory data says I should shoot. That is why working loads to suit the weapon is so important. I'm thinking that if I ran this same test with a Montana Gold or a Berry's plated bullet the results will vary to some degree. I think the accuracy of each load & the PF would be affected either positively or negatively as well as a result of changing projectiles. Perhaps if I get some time in the near future I can do just that with MG's & Berrys and post those results as well.

    That would be cool. Ideally, we should have the instruments to measure the pressure of our loads too, and numbers on what pressure is ideal for each powder. I suspect this is the key when it comes to powder type and amount.

    I strongly disagree with you regarding 40 minor not being a great idea. I think that 40 is a great platform to tinker with minor loads. Minor loads shoot very flat out of my MP. It's a shame the guy pulling the trigger can't take advantage of that! LOL!

    I didn't say it's not a good idea, I say it may not be a great idea :) I also like to tinker with it. It's just as cheap as 9mm to reload anyway, with brass being effectively free, and the slightly more expensive bullets being more or less offset by the smaller amount of gunpowder needed.

    I read an article here called The Seduction of .40 minor in Production by Carina Burns Randolph . This was a very well written technical article regarding this issue. I was unable to get a link to this article - perhaps somebody can help out.

    My original goal was to find the load that is most accurate for my weapon. I think I have done that even though it means shooting Production with a 150+ power factor.

    The question is, how does this compare to shooting a 9mm at 130pf?

  8. I shoot a G22 with 10-round mags, and they just would not go in without extreme physical violence, unless the slide was back. I kept the mags loaded to ease up the springs, but it did not help.

    The solution was to cut off one coil on the mag springs. Everything is now working perfectly. I have run the gun like this for thousands of rounds without a single problem.

    I use a 13# recoil spring on a steel guiderod, and 128PF loads.

  9. Due in large part to all the positive experiences people here have had with the ghost holster, I tried it out for my Kimber (for L10). I have to say I'm disappointed. Even in fully locked mode, I can twist the gun 90 degrees forward! It's still locked, mind you, and there is some resistance, but it's giving me a wobbly, unsafe feeling. There are a couple of plastic set screws that the instruction sheet instructs you to back out for 1911s, so I did that, but it didn't help all that much.

    Is there any "speed holster" that holds a single stack secure? Maybe I should stick with my DOH. My problem with that is that there's not enough space on the inside. My thumbs are too big.

    I think I will see if Angus will take a return...

  10. I found this very interesting as I also shoot minor 40. Thank you for sharing these results, Throwing lead.

    I learned from someone on this forum (sorry, forgot who said this) that in order to get a good load, find a powder/bullet combination which meets your desired PF and is close to or at max load for that bullet/powder combination. Supposedly, as loads get closer to their max, accuracy goes up, SD goes down, and they burn cleaner.

    I corroborated this theory the other day when chronoing some loads for my 1911, and it also seems right to me, intuitively. It also explains 1) why Titegroup is so filthy in 45ACP loads, because major PF 45 loads for that powder are close to the minimum load, and 2) why Clays is so good for 45 -- it is at the max load.

    I realize that there are other factors that go into the powder/bullet choice, but let's just consider this one for now.

    Now, for minor 40, this is hard to do, since all loads are too hot. But I looked at all the official Hodgdon loads on their web site, and the mildest max loads are

    135 GR. NOS JHP 135 Clays .400" 1.125" 4.0 940 22,600 PSI 4.5 1071 32,900 PSI (PF 145 for max load)

    155 GR. HDY XTP 155 Clays .400" 1.125" 3.6 854 23,300 PSI 4.0 942 30,900 PSI (PF 146 for max laod)

    For 180 gr bullets the mildest max load is

    180 GR. HDY XTP 180 Clays .400" 1.125" 3.0 727 26,000 PSI 3.5 847 34,300 PSI (PF 152 for max load)

    I wouldn't use these bullets (XTP, JHP), but I assume changing to some kind of lead bullet would make the same difference everywhere, so to speak.

    So, given this, a 155 grain Clays load a little bit under max might be a good load.

    A more general conclusion is that 40 minor may just not be that great of an idea, since one has to go a bit too hot to get a decent load :(

    With 9mm, many max loads are very close to 125 PF.

    Does any of this make sense?

  11. I just got my kimber back from the gun smith. Had a trigger job done, and he changed the main spring from a 19 to 17# one. I took it to the range, and it seemed to me that recoil was a bit sharper. The gun was pushing into my right hand more.

    Does this make sense or am I just imagining things? I can imagine that a heavier main spring decelerates the rearward motion of the slide more, and therefore makes recoil softer. Should I change to a lighter main spring to compensate? (I have a 13# in now). Will a shok-buf change how it feels? (I was going to put one in anyway)

  12. No replies because there really aren't many choices. Many outfits, and especially the ones that catered to the action shooting crowd have closed up shop or moved elsewhere. The antigun sentiments of the local general population, I think, made it too difficult to make a living just off the patronage of the relatively few gun enthusiasts left. There are a few people around, but they mostly don't make their living as 'smiths. The ones I know are skilled hobbyists who do/did the work out of necessity or for the love of tinkering, and mostly help out their friends.

    Bay Area folks who want major work done mostly ship out, and sometimes out of state.

    Some gunsmiths with excellent regional reputations shoot at RRGC, coming in from as far away as Reno. If you know these folks, a mention of the problem, an inspection of the firearm in question, and a handshake are enough to get the gun into good hands and back to the owner in a few weeks.

    The smith at Reeds isn't somebody I know, but he may do very good work, so that's a good place to start. Try shooting enough matches at Richmond to get to know people like Johnny and Gene if you are interested in something custom.

    Edited for clarity.

    Hi Kevin, I think I've talked to you at RRGC once or twice (Kevin Chu, right?). I just became a member BTW :)

    I'll ask around there next time I need some gunsmithing. Thanks.

  13. Unfortunately, not everyone is as fortunate as you guys that always make a perfect grip and activate the safety. I use a high grip with right thumb on the safety and the other thumb pointing down range. I miss activating the grip safety very often. Sometimes I grab so high that the web of my hand is too high on the beaver tail and has to slide down as I go to the target or shoot.

    A pinned grip safety does fine for me, but I would consider "The Answer" if it were not too expensive and I could install it myself. The cost of shipping the frame to Novak and cost of return shipping runs up an already pricey modification.

    Does anyone know who makes a polymer arched checkered mainspring housing? I would like to put one on my Edge.

    Buddy

    Where did you find the pricing info?

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