elenius
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Posts posted by elenius
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I just started loading .308 on my 550B. I am using Top Brass once-fired and H4895 powder. The problem is that when I move a cartridge down from the powder die, some extra powder spills out. The amount seems to vary. Sometimes if I move the handle very slowly there is no spilling.
Should I be using the "oversized powder die" or is there something else I'm doing wrong?
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Oh yes, I should clarify that mine is the Mk IV XP.
Besides not working, their customer service doesn't answer the phone, and they don't have an email address. There's also no proper manual for the pact mkiv xp
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I just tried to place an order with Precision and they are out as well. 8-10 weeks behind. Said "sorry we couldn't fill in a timely manner, with lead prices going up daily, the shooters are panicking and sales are up 400%"
g10
I decided to jump on the panic bandwagon and ordered two more cases of 45s myself
As long as they give me the current prices, I don't care about a wait.I found Bear Creek bullets to be very dirty. My hands are all black after just loading them up! I am also having feeding problems with them, but they would probably work if I found the exact OAL at which they're happy.
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Just wondering whether anyone has any ideas/tips/experiences regarding shooting a rifle (M1A with iron sights) with cross-dominance. I'm right handed and "left eyed". When I shoot pistol, I tape the right glass. When I shoot rifle, I close my left eye, but it is hard for me to do this for more than a few seconds, and it's very unrelaxed. I tried looking with both eyes open, but it's tough. I don't see the front sight very sharp then. My left eye is too dominant.
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I have a MKIV timer/chronograph and am contemplating buying the skyscreens for it. Has anyone used these skyscreens and the chronograph feature of the MKIV? If so, how'd you like it? Is it worth buying the skyscreens or should I just stick with my Chrony Beta?
Thanks!
Trodrig
Don't bother!
Mine didn't work, I sent it back, it was supposeldy repaired (chip replaced), and now it works even less (i.e. not at all). Since it is also way too big and clumsy to use as a timer IMO, I'm sending it back.
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I have used a bunch of the 4895's (Hogden is the most uniform in my work) in 30 cal, and also like RL15.
Some folks think that Varget is the basically identical to RL15, but I got big velocity spread with it. In 223, Varget and CCI primers are frequently thought to go together well, but it sure did not like my Federal, Remington, and Winchester primers.
Billski
Ooh, I didn't realize primer choice was important.
So what "non-match" primers do y'all recommend? (Trying to keep it relatively inexpensive here).
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Hehe, wow, I cannot begin to approach your record of wearing out Dillon stuff. I broke my first thing the other day - the C clip on one of my sizing dies. A new one is on the way
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I asked David Long of Precision Bullets whether it would be ok to tumble the loaded rounds (to get the case lube off). I started doing this with plated bullet loads, and they come out oh so shiny. He recommended against it since it might hurt the coating. So I was wondering if anyone here is actually doing this, and what your experiences are.
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H4895
Lapua brass 41.7 H4895 with Federal Gold Match primers and 168 MKs. If this load won't shoot a .3 in your rifle..... You (your rifle) need help.
Is there a difference between H4895 and IMR4895?
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I have almost everything I need to start reloading for my new M1A Scout now. I am going to use Hornady bulk 150gr FMJBT bullets (BC 0.398). The rifle has a CA legal muzzle brake.
I got Hornady's reloading manual, and they recommend IMR 4064 and Varget as "providing the best results throughout the range of bullets". My Lyman manual also mentions IMR 4895, N140 and Reloder 15.
What should I start with? I'd prefer to not have to experiment with different powders too much due to time and cost.
Any input on considerations like what meters well, burns clean, etc, would be appreciated.
Do they all work the muzzle brake equally well?
Another question is how to get a first approximation of velocity. The tables are for 22-24" barrels, whereas mine is 18". I think I read a rule of thumb of 50 fps less per inch shorter barrel. Is this reasonable?
I threw in a poll for good measure. Seems to draw people's attention
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That Beretta CX4 rifle might be a contender too. I think it still uses AR mags too.
Rich
I think you mean Rx4
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I got the NM front sight, rubber butt pad and a NM guide rod from Springfield. If you send them your factory trigger group they will work on it and get it to 3.5 - 4 lbs. for around $35. A lot cheaper than the $300+ white feather trigger group. Terry Bowers will hook you up: terryb@springfield-armory.com.
I also put the adustable gas plug in, probably over doing it, but once I got it tweaked it runs great, and reduced the recoil. I have a hard time with it out past 200 (indian not the arrow) but a buddy I shoot with who's much better nails 10" plates with it out to around 250m with ease.
Interesting, I thought 4.5 lbs was the lowest it could safely go. Just a myth?
The scout has the NM front sight. What difference does the NM guide rod make?
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Get the full lengh rifle for longer sight radius, it will make a huge difference.
Listen to Benny. I have an 18". Good for glass. Not so good for irons.
Too late. I've already bought the gun.
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The standard battle sight should be just fine. Practice is the key. Does the scout have a full length sight radius, or is it shorter?
It's an 18" barrel. I've heard good things about the scout for 3-gun. The regular 22" feel sooo big and awkward to me.
I put a NM front sight on my SOCOM II. Helped out a lot on the long range stuff. The fat tritium front sight it came with made it worthless beyond 75 yards on any target smaller than an elephant.Yes, I do like the front sight, I was just concerned about the rear one...
So the SOCOM rear sight works well with the NM front? Is this the same as the standard front that's on my scout?
Are you planning on doing anything with the trigger, recoil spring guide rod or gas plug?I don't know. Should I?
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I'm getting an M1A scout on Fri
So... I was wondering what kind of iron sights you all like on the M1A for IPSC rifle/3-gun. Seems to me like the rear peep sight is too small to use for runnin' and gunnin'.
I checked out a SOCOM which has different sights -- A larger peep which seems like it might work, and also a much fatter front sight, which seemed kind of useless to me for long range shooting.
Also looked at the match rifles which have the flip-up selectable rear sight, but the second one is even smaller. I'm sure it's great at long ranges, but still no solution for short range stuff.
Is there a "best of all worlds" solution that works for both fast close range gunning and long range precision? If there was a flip-up type peep sight which had the large SOCOM one and the regular one, that might work. Or a notch on top of the peep? Or just a notch sight, period? Or should I just aim on top of the peep for fast shooting? Or is it just not a problem once I've learned how to aquire it quickly?
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If you prime *after* trimming, you reduce the chance of having brass shavings in the flash holes after trimming. This is a very real possibility if you're really shaving down the brass during trimming. I actually run my trimmed brass through the sizer again - and I realize that this works the brass more than necessary - but it ensures I have clean flash holes before priming.
FWIW....
Aha, that's good to know!
John, what is the reason to clean twice? Is it necessary to get the lube off?
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If your dies have lock rings with set screws, you don't have to readjust. Just screw it out/screw it in. I'd find disconnecting and reconnecting the powder safety bar (or whatever its proper name is) more of a pain.
Trimming primed cases is fine. I tumble loaded rounds, haven't primed cases. Don't think it would be much of an issue.
Hmm, I'm looking at my dillon depriming/sizing dies for my handgun calibers, and I don't see what you mean. What kind of dies have the "lock rings with set screws"?
Then I realized I don't have to size and deprime before I clean, so I think I could do this (if I use the prepared brass):
1) Clean
2) Deprime, size, prime
3) Trim and chamfer
4) Powder, seating, crimp (feeding from station 2)
Right? Any problems with this approach? Or is this a "duh!" moment?
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What are you reloading for? For a precision gun I'd go with Redding dies, at least their competition seater. If you aren't loading precision stuff, no way would I bother with flash hole deburring or primer pocket uniforming. I think Brownell's just bought out Sinclair, so I would check there for tools.
Do not resize twice, it just works the case unnecessarily. You can remove the sizing die or back it out to where the decapping pin doesn't make contact.
Hmm, seems like a big hassle to remove the die every time and then re-adjust it. I suppose I could get an extra toolhead for just the sizing die, and put the other three dies on another toolhead.
Or, if I go with Top brass prepped cases, how about just priming in step (1) above? Is it ok to tumble clean and trim/chamfer primed cases? I could then feed them into station (2) directly when it's time to load them up.
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I'm searching out all the old threads about reloading rifle rounds, which I've never done before. I've learned a lot, but I'm still not clear on a couple of things.
I'm going to use my 550.
First, as the topic says, which tools are good for uniforming the primer pocket and deburring the flash hole? Is this already done on the "100% prepared" brass from Top Brass?
Secondly, I'll describe how I *think* I should do things, and you can stop me where I'm wrong
I have this list of stuff to get:
- Dillon carbide 3-die set
- Dillon caliber conversion (and toolhead, stand)
- Dillon super swage
The die setup will be the usual:
Sizing/depriming/priming on station 1
Powder on station 2
Seating on station 3
Crimping on station 4
Supposing I have unprepped military brass, my understanding is that the necessary steps are:
1) Depriming and sizing
2) Cleaning
3) Reaming or swaging the primer pocket
4) Deburring the flash hole and uniforming the primer pocket
5) Trimming to length
6) Chamfering the case mouth inside and out
7) Prime, powder drop, seat, crimp
So this means each round goes in the press twice: At step (1), and then again at step (7).
But this means each round will also be sized twice, both during the initial depriming and then again during the actual loading. Is this ok? I.e. does the second sizing in effect do nothing because the case is already sized? Or do I have to take out this die before I start loading up the ammo?
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I just bought an M1A, and I'm thinking of how to feed it.
I searched around for cheap ammo, and I found e.g. these ones which are supposed to be reloadable (or at least brass cased):
www.outdoormarksman.com
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American "Factory Reload"
Bosnian Hot Shot
www.surplusammo.com
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lithuanian
www.the-armory.com
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federal american eagle
wal-mart
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federals soft point?
Which of these, if any, would you reload? What to stay away from?
It seems like a good deal to pay a little extra for reloadable ones if I'm going to reload anyway.
Seems like people prefer Lake City or Lapua brass for reloading, but maybe it doesn't matter so much unless it's for super accuracy? I'm planning to maybe shoot 3gun/ipsc rifle, and just general range fun. Not talking High Power accuracy here, especially since I need to learn how to shoot to start with... (my first rifle)
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Well, now it looks like I need to shopping for a chronograph and some place to set it up. I've been shooting at an indoor range which is out of the question for that. There are a couple "rod and gun" type clubs in the area that might allow this.
One thing you could check before you buy one is whether your club has a loaner. I found out that mine does after I bought one. Then again, it's fun to have one
The two clubs I checked do allow setting up a chrono in front of the shooting line. Shouldn't be a problem.
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The crimp die in their .38/.357 set is a roll crimp die. You have to order a taper crimp .38 die if you want one - they're easy to find, just not standard equipment.
OH
I never realized roll crimp is only for bullets with a groove! I've loaded a bunch of 38 spl with ungrooved bullets with my standard dillon die 
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What really doesn't make sense is the holster/magpouch placement restrictions, especially combined with the 8 rd restriction of SS. Wearing 6 mag pouches behind the hip bone means some painful behind-the-back reaching for those last mags...
It doesn't make it more expensive to put some mag pouches up front, so I don't really get this one.
One one hand, they're trying to be "real world" and not allow mag pouches up front(?), but on the other hand, like someone said, how realistic is it to carry 6 mag pouches anyway?
Would it really hurt the "crossover" aspect to allow mag pouches anywhere on the belt? I don't think so.
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For me I tend to get in the zone when I'm physically exhausted, especially from shooting for a while, say a few hundred rounds in practice. It seems like the conscious mind is just too tired to chime in and try to control things, and I just go on autopilot and just observe what happens. I start out my practice being *concentrated* and end up being *focussed*.
At least, this is what happens on a good day
As long as they give me the current prices, I don't care about a wait.
I never realized roll crimp is only for bullets with a groove! I've loaded a bunch of 38 spl with ungrooved bullets with my standard dillon die 
Iron sights and cross eye dominance
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Yeah, I tape my right eye... I didn't find any disadvantage to shooting handguns with my left eye.
I realize this won't work if I want to shoot multigun
Maybe I need to retrain and then shoot everything with my left glass taped...
Haven't tried being left-handed