elenius
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Posts posted by elenius
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Why does it have to be "integrated"? JP has an adjustable gas block with a rail on top. You can mount any flip-up sight you like on it.
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Ugh, I just found out that the .245" sight only fits on the .22 kimbers
Where the heck do I find a front sight around .210"?
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Thanks for that!
So according to this:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11181/g...ne_Sight_Height
With a 6.75" sight radius, I need a 0.02625" higher front sight, in other words a 0.20625" tall sight.
According to my further calculations, a .200" tall front will hit 0.833" high. What I really need is a .210" front and then I can adjust with the rear sight. Sigh, I've never seen one of those.
OR, I can get a .245 front sight, and adjust the rear sight (.245 - .20625 = ) 0.03875" up. Hmm, bringing out the calipers to see if that's possible...
EDIT: Yep, not a problem at all
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On my Kimber Stainless II (not target sight model), I installed a dawson precision adjustable rear sight, and their .180 tall fiber optic front sight. It shoots 3-4" high at 25 yards with the rear sight all the way down. I am thinking that a taller front sight is the solution. Dawson has a .245 tall "rimfire" front sight. Would that be way too tall? Is there any other brand that works in the Kimber front sight cut that is a good height?
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Neither of us is really comfortable with the idea of decocking by pulling the trigger, so I'm just wondering if anyone has any experiences with running a decocker CZ. Thinking of the getting the CZ 75 BD. My main concerns are
1) How good can you get trigger on these? I read that the decocker triggers aren't as nice as the non-decocker ones. Still better than e.g. a glock trigger?
2) Someone claimed to be hitting the decocker with his right thumb while shooting. Any ergonomic/functional/other problems like that?
As I understand it, when you decock it, it will go to half-cock, so the first (DA) shot is from half-cock. With a non-decocker one, you have to completely lower the hammer. So the first shot should actually be better on the DA version, right?
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I got a less than helpful answer from Wideners:
Only use primers for their intended purposes. If your loading data says use a Small Pistol primer, Do Not Subsitiute a Small Rifle Primer in it's place. -
I am considering getting some Wolf small rifle primers, to use for both pistol and rifle (glock with light striker spring and AR with JP trigger job). Which kind should I get?
Wideners says to use the standard rifle primer (QQQSR) for "standard 223" loads, but then they say that the magnum ones are best for "AR15 or military style semi auto". Will the magnum (QQQSRM) or QQQSR223 work well with pistol loads? They say that the cups are thicker. Does that mean harder to ignite? Will they be harder than, say, a CCI pistol primer? Should I just abandon the "one primer to rule them all" philosophy?
http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?ite...dir=278|284|737
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I'm also very interested in this. +1 on the priming system being the only not-quite-perfect part of the otherwise great 550.
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I ordered a 21" from able's. They were in stock and everything
Gose, what do you use as a limiter?
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This would be for tactical/limited and some outlaw matches. A 24" would let me get one more shot in the tube (I want a tube that's flush with the barrel), but is perhaps a bit clumsier/slower to handle? Is the weight difference negligible? What would you get and why? Not planning to shoot any clays or ducks with it.
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Bad news: Cabela sent me this email:
Dear Customer,We regret to inform you that we are still unable to supply the merchandise you
requested and now find it necessary to cancel the back-ordered item(s) listed
below.
21-0756 Winchester Per 1000 Primers 7 LARGE PISTOL
I ordered those back in May.
Good news: I was able to get wolf primers (in stock!) from wideners
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I have 2 550's indexing by hand is no issue for me.
Hit the index-star with my thumb, and set the bullet on the case with my right hand, while the right is reaching for a new case...
As to the full cases.. I don't load anything like that.. so can't speak to it.
Don't you mean new bullet with the left hand, case with the right hand??
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Shooter's connection has them for the same price that roze distribution sells the 230 FMJs. I'm a bit annoyed by the exposed lead base in the FMJs and how dirty it gets, so I'm thinking about getting these. Any experiences?
http://shootersconnection.com/store/produc...roducts_id=1275
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The length restrictions are federal, not CA-specific.
You can't have both a folding or telescoping stock and a pistol grip. You also can't have detachable mags, but that's not an issue for 870s.
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I've got a stock SA Loaded 1911 with some very sharp edges. When I'm riding the safety with my strong hand thumb, the back edge of the safety is painful. When I fire, the it bites and makes me flinch. Also of less importance, the edges on the trigger are on the sharp side (painful after 50 shots), and the slide serrations are rather razorish.
Would some grip tape work? Can I file or sand down the edges? Any advice on that? Any other ideas, short of buying a new safety?
This is my first post, BTW... very nice discussions here!
I noticed that when I handled one in the store. Went with a Les Baer instead
I would sand down the edges. -
I'm looking for quality shooting glasses, and I don't want to look like a space explorer from the 80s. In other words, I'd like some glasses that look like normal sunglasses. Everyone seems to like the rudy project ones, and "guardyan" are the most normal-looking ones to me.
http://www.rudyprojectusa.com/products/sun...s/guardyan.htm#
Just wondering if anyone has any experience of these. Would they be comfortable with ear muffs? Will they fit a big head? REI has them in their catalog, but my local stores don't have them in stock, so I can't try them on at this time.
I'm also considering Oakley Fives Squared
http://oakley.com/custom/fives_squared
They have these at my local REI, and they are quite comfortable. Forgot to bring ear muffs to the store to test them with though...
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This thread has been going on for 5 weeks or so now. Please don't make me read the whole thing to find out if someone has already done what I am about to ask........
Has anyone put the issue of internal (not externally visible) parts replacement and/or modification (in addition to polishing) in Production Division through the proper chain to get a by-the-book-official-no-more-questions-asked RULING on the issue?
Perhaps another 5 weeks of debating will help? Perhaps no one wants to know the answer?
-rvb
The BOD is supposed to have a phone meeting to discuss it next week.
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Chris Endersby, area 2 director, replied and said the BOD will address this in a phone meeting next week. He also said he doesn't shout Production, but he didn't otherwise give any clue as to where he stands.
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This thread makes me wonder about all this:
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This situation is going to be re-evaluated in a few days.
All may not be lost, but if you care, your AD needs to hear from you.
Area 5, no need to reach out, I'm already here.
Gary
Writing to the Area 2 director...
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I use the kimber magwell. I haven't tried any other kind. It could definitely use some blending just to make it look better, but it works just fine the way it is (on my kimber custom II).
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If you're speaking of the fulcrum kit...definitely. If you're speaking of nearly all other trigger kits, definitely probably.
If you're interested in the LONG discussion of the legality of Production trigger mods, bring some cofee and antacid: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75404
Curtis
I just read the WHOLE thread, and all I can say is wow!
Me too. Wow. I was planning on going back to Production some time this year with my Glock 22 with the Vanek production trigger kit, but now I guess I'll wait for the powers that be to decide whether that would make me a cheater or not.
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Current USPSA production rules say under the prohibited modifications and features: Disabling of any external safety or externally operated safety.
so under that rule..you would be able to out the FPB since it is an internal device.
it is possible to get a really nice trigger with the FPB still inside. the parts need to be polished well, the springs need a little tweak..and you can get a DA pull in the 5.5# range with no feeling of the FPB. it just takes a little work to get it nice.
Are there any differences in how nice you can get the trigger pull on the decocker versions vs the manual safety versions?
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I am thinking of getting a new gun, and I am looking into the CZs. The SP-01 Shadow is not on the infamous CA list, but I kind of like the idea of having a decocker anyway, so I am looking at the SP-01 tactical. This version comes with the firing pin block. The Shadow doesn't, and a good trigger job involves removing it, as I understand it. Now, my question is, will the Tactical be Production-legal if I remove it? It's normally not allowed to remove safety features, right?
ETA: The rules say that removing "external safeties" is not allowed. On the other hand, removing a firing pin safety is not listed under the "authorized modifications (strictly limited to these items and their stated guidelines".
meopta k dot reticle question
in Rifle - Technical
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There are several free ones on the Web. Just put "ballistics calculator" into your favorite search engine