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kimberacp

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Posts posted by kimberacp

  1. I have shot Limited 40 major for many years and now only starting to venture into 9mm Open.    Now for me, shooting single stack only for a few months out of the year prior to the WSSSC match, it doesn't make sense to load a a different case!    One case size, two divisions.

    I do agree on a lot of what Pistolpete9 said...

     

    9mm- A win for cheapskates and snipers  ;)

     

    .

  2. Checking contact surface between hammer and sear with a new sear, I can see the swiping marks in the middle of the sear from the hammer.  What would cause the half cock to swipe?   Is it not enough travel away from the hooks or the sear point to tall?

    thanks for any ideas.

     

  3. 4 minutes ago, rpm8300 said:

    Here is a crazy one, that is related but different.  I was just at Area 8 and had malfunctions for 4 stages with my Trubor 9mm open gun.  Turns out the ejector cross pin had come out a little and was rubbing against the slide.  That is ALSO a new one - aside from ruining my match.  I think I can use a little glue to secure the pin.

    :o

  4. i believe the problem is that the magazine area in the frame is just slight too large, as to let the magazine tube move freely. Not ensuring a positive lock onto the magazine catch lip.

    I myself, would get a welder to weld a bead onto the catch and then file, shape it to where you want it, to securely hold the magazine tube in place.

    After welding a bead, you can look from the bottom of the mag tube (empity and inserted in the frame), you can see how far the mag. catch lip is into the tube. By pressing on the mag. catch and removing the tube you file the lip down, enough to clear the frame wall, ensuring the tube will fall out, completely, without hanging up on it.

    BTW, by using this weld method, you can easily convert your gun to use S_I/S_V, magazines. A better option.

    IMO

  5. if I think I understand...try beveling the edge of the leg contacting against the disco. also mark the inside of the disco hole with a blue marker ( where the sear pin) goes through. after dry fire, few times, disassemble and look inside of the disco hole, look for rub marks from the sear pin,

    mentally picture, as you press the trigger, the disco will move up and rearward, look for rub marks and touch up with file or sandpaper. that "click" sounds come from those rub marks, too. along with the disco head moving "back and forth" inside of the frame hole at the top.

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