Heavy Barrel

Yes, I got told in exact words "We do not have an order in the system for you and would recommend you deal directly with the distributor/dealer you ordered from"

Not bashing my dealer nor Hogue here. But that has always been my suspicion. Though neither the dealer nor Hogue would out right admit it. That is what I have always been taught, be up front and honest with your customers. No matter if your the supplier or the dealer. (unless I was taught wrong) If there is a Pau Ferro supply issue, and they had spoke up. I would understand the situation they are in.

I ordered a Pau Ferro for my N frame back in April, the dealer quoted me 90-120 days. I checked up on the order and the quote had been extended from the original 90-120 to 210-240 days. Has any one ever encountered delivery times that far exceed the norm. (Four Months) When ordering Hogue products such as their Exotic Hardwood Grips. Whether from a Hogue dealer or directly from Hogue? NOTE: In all honesty please keep your responses clean and courteous, you can be objective but keep it clean and courteous. Mods told me they are watching this thread.

This is due to complete paranoia

Here is the "official" propaganda from UPS. Their Customer Support sent this along with other documentation. When I was looking into shipping a firearm back to the manufacture for repairs for the first time. Ammunition: UPS accepts domestic ground and air shipments of ammunition that have been classified by the shipper as "Cartridges, small arms", or "ORM-D" (Other Regulated Material). The package must be properly marked according to the requirements of Title 49 of the Code of Federal Regulations (49 CFR). A Hazardous Materials Transportation Contract may be required to ship such packages with UPS. Contact the Hazardous Material Support Center at 1-800-554-9964 for details on regulatory information.

That should be correct. If the stirrup came off it was on a MIM hammer as the old ones had pins keeping them on. Every Dash 6 model I have seen the stirrups snap in to the hammer in some manner. My last two revos I purchased I had changed to a pinned stirrup. Its a great design just too many times (in my experiance) the stirrup that S&W sends with the dash 6 models has some how worked its way out of the hammer.

Gary, Thanks for the pic. I have somehow lost the stirrurp. On the plus side, I did manage to install a new SDM sight and do the Bubber mod on 8 Comp 3's. Holster should be here next week. That'll give me time to find/order the stirrup. Thanks to all. Dave. Are you using a factory stirrup pt#77910000?

Thank you for sharing this with me, I never knew that they existed. Not alone the fact that they are less than thirty miles from where I reside. I am kind of surprised that Brownells hasn't come up with their own design to market.

I am looking for some suggestions as to where I would be able to locate a Extractor Rod Tool made by Wessinger or anyone else if that option is not available. I checked Brownells http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...RACTOR+ROD+TOOL and they don't give me the option to "purchase" the tool. Though they noted that the tool is "Dropped by factory" now whether they are stating the tool is drop shipped or it has been discontinued maybe some one else has a better grasp on that.

Round Gun, I have also been in search of a diagram like that. Thank you. Though what I was trying to explain/ask. Was referring to the diagram I pasted, How they show the different parts of the parts. Such as the hammer, which consist of the SA sear, DA sear, Hammer spring strut, etc. Or the different parts of a trigger, etc. Too many times I have been in situations where I try to explain issues to other local shooters, the best I could do is draw it out.

Would anyone know where I would be able to locate a good, detailed parts diagram of S&W's K,L,N and X Frame revolvers such as this one.

The party I spoke with that day went by the name of Jeff. I didn't think to get his last name. Though at first he specifically stated that a return label would be sent to me by means of UPS. Then he asked me if I had a e-mail address in which I provided to him. He then stated that they would be e-mailing me a return label. In which I am yet to receive. I checked with my ISP to see if it may have been blocked thinking it was spam but they don't show any records of S&W or UPS sending me anything. Everything else seems as it should be. Honestly, when I sent the piece to S&W I had no intentions of them lightening the trigger pull. Only smoothing out the overall feel of the trigger. I don't have any intentions of making any "obvious" changes, such as those you mentioned. Just try to smooth the action out to where it feels better than what the smith did when he sent the piece back to me. Regarding the statement "if you do send it back." I would rather run the piece through a shredder then send it back to S&W. I will find a independent smith if something goes wrong that I can't fix before sending it back to them. I have no problems with buying S&W products but I personally am done with their Performance Center. I came to the conclusion when I had them do my 686 that I could do this alot quicker. And any one could be more efficient at returning a price quote. I have both of Mr. Miculek's DVD's covering S&W revolvers. After watching his "Trigger Job" DVD I just scratched my head wondering why was it so difficult for the smith to do this right the first time.

Its going on a week and I am yet to receive the return UPS label that S&W claims that they sent to me. In the mean time I sent a inquire to Wolff gun springs explaining the issue, and the general manager Mr. Dave Koebensky stated that there is a strong possibility that S&W installed a reduced power main spring and either a 11lb or 13lb rebound spring. By his words that is all that S&W normally orders from Wolff. He feels that if the action hasn't been worked over properly a 11lb or 13lb rebound spring might be too weak, so he is sending me an assortment of rebound springs i.e. various weights to see if they will balance the action out. In the mean time I have been debating about, lightly stoning the various contact points just enough to get rid of the high spots and the rough spots created from when the parts were casted. Though if I do I know to stay away from the cocking notch on the hammer. I realize the risk that I would be taking, though my thought is I couldn't do no worse that what S&W did. And if I do screw up, I know at least three different places that sell parts.

One should not stone the cocking notch on the hammer. That I understand. Everyone I have discussed the matter of doing my own action work (locally). Has severly pressed that the cocking notch does not get stoned on double action revolvers. Period.

I changed the rebound slide springs as you suggested. The results were that the trigger dosen't hang up no ways near as it use to. Now the trigger makes a prominate snapping sound when it resets with the cylinder stop and the sear. My guess is that the trigger and or sear hasn't been stoned properly to fit with the piece. After talking to S&W today about this issue the response I got was "they do trim the rebound spring sometimes instead of stoning the action" I explained what the results were of their negligence and they are suppose to be e-mailing me a UPS return label. Though I would still like to "tinker" with it some what to see what the fool they call a smith did wrong. I have been keeping a log of what I have changed, so far it has only been the rebound spring. The difference between the original and the one the smith monkeyed up is pretty obvious. The trigger would want to hangup half way no matter if I would be shooting live rounds or dry firing, or have snap caps in the cylinder. I had to back the strain screw off a full turn in order to eliminate the "hitch" using the modified rebound spring that was installed by the smith. Far as doing my own action job, I personally would have a smooth trigger pull than a light trigger pull. The 686 I sent to S&W last year they didn't do anything in regards to the trigger pull weight. They just stoned the contact surfaces with in the action. And the results I got from my 686 far exceed the results I got from my 629.

I read some where else here that was the problem. I think that it was involving a 625? Though I called and explained to the Customer Service Rep. what it was doing. They are suppose to be sending me a UPS label with in the next few days. Ironicly the smith that done the work was asinine to send the original rebound slide spring back to me. I will give that a try, though for what I paid them, talk about playing it cheap.

I recently posted this issue that I am having with a 629 classic that I recieved back from S&W's performance center last friday. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49186 I have come to the conclusion that I would have better chances at getting a reply here than in "General Gunsmithing" As I mentioned in the other posting the trigger wants to hesitate/hang up. When I discharge a round, then release the trigger to reset the action, it wants to hesitate/ hang up roughly half way to the reset point. (I am not sure what the proper terminology would be to explain this, if some one is willing to take to time to explain this in better terms. I would appreciate it.) I have contacted S&W and they are "suppose" to be sending me a shipping label for returning the piece. IMO that is the least they could do.

I recently received my 629 Classic back from S&W which I had sent in to the PC (Performance Center) to have their "Combat Revolver Package" applied. Along with the installation of a tear drop hammer and .312 trigger as those use in the PC's 629 Light Hunter. The overall appearance of the piece is great. And in "general" the feel of the action is acceptable. But there is one sour spot. And that is when I release the trigger after discharging the piece the trigger seems to hang up or want to stick about half way. As if there is a tight spot some where. Those whom have had trigger finger or trigger thumb per say that is what the trigger in its self is doing. I disassembled it down to the cylinder stop, to see if any debris was left inside from the bead blasting, though I found nothing of such nature. So as I reassembled the parts, I checked to see how they felt when mated with the corresponding parts. In which I was unable to cause the trigger to stick. Everything felt fine up to the point I reinstalled the main spring. Only thing I could think of is that the main spring is some how twisting everything out of alignment, or what ever the issue might me that it is not noticeable until the action is under pressure per the main spring. I am open to any suggestions.