5252

That sure as heck isn't the Unique I know. Then again, I use it for full power 10mm loads and I'm sure the pressures are up there. Clean, low flash and acceptable recoil.

I loaded up 25 ea. 180 gr. and 200 gr. Berry's bullets with 3.9 gr. of Clay's, using an OAL of 1.255. Both shot clean and grouped real tight. No chrono, but the 200 gr. clearly had more recoil. I loaded up some more using 3.7 gr. and will see how it goes on pins this week. The 180 gr. should be minor. Won't be sure until I chrono 'em.

The Berry's are $20 /1000 cheaper. More than that. I just went through an exercise on the price. If you get the 180 FP @ 16.99/250 from Cabela's, that's $68/1000. I also ran through the order but didn't submit it. Put in an order of 100 units of 250 bullets. No tax, and shipping charge was a grand total of $16. This doesn't sound possible (do that math on how much that shipment weighs...), but per the order process on Cabela's website, it is. Saivngs over Montana Golds for a similar bullet (CMJ) was about 27%.

Good point. Time to raid Cabela's .... the pricing you quoted only predicts a similar price hike at Cabela's.

76.69 for 20k bullets for the "Club" price on 180gr. FP? What am I missing here? Cabela's is selling the 180gr. FP for 16.99 as the original poster stated, which is cheaper. I guess the best strategy is just to buy right from Cabela's and you only have to buy 250 bullets at a time...

Good question. I'd like to know, also. I just loaded up a number of different loads in 10mm with the 180s and 200s with good results.

Thanks for the info! I'll stick to a 1.255 OAL so if some setback does occur, it shouldn't have nearly the effect of setback from a 1.200 OAL. The SAAMI spec for 40 S&W is 35,000 PSI and for 10mm it's 37,500. I don't know if that means the 10mm brass is stronger or not, but the difference is similar to a "+P", if you will. From a manufacturing perspective, I would think it would be most cost effective to use the same exact design for both, and just spit out different length cases.

I just picked up some Clay's and read through all the "Verboten!" posts on Clay's and .40 cal. Clearly, the 10mm case is much stronger and OAL much longer than a .40 load. I'm wondering if that would reduce the possibility of a "kaboom". I quickly did up a minor pin load, that seems to work well: W231 4.8 gr., 180 gr. Berries, 1.255 OAL, should be about 890 fps. Haven't chrono'd it yet. Worked real good on the pins and seems to shoot accurate to 10 yards. Mild recoil, relatively clean (for 231...). I'd like to work up a minor load for 200 gr. using Clay's. Minor for pins means just under 165, not 140ish. From what I've read and the tables I've looked at, looks like around 3.5 gr. is a good starting point. Thoughts? Yeah, I know not a whole lot of guys here shooting 10mm....

Thanks for all the input, guys! Any hints/tips on your favorite place to buy reloading supplies would be great. We have a local shop here but his prices aren't that great.

Excellent. I'll look forward to it. Thanks.

Agreed. I was just looking for specifics. I can certainly come up with something myself that works, it just the time and efforts it takes to do so. I don't have a chrono at this point. Was just hoping some would share so I could save the cost of coming up with something that works well myself.

I won't claim to be the brightest light on the Christmas tree for going with 10mm for USPSA, but I do intend to reload. I have a good friend that's been reloading for 30 years (though no experience with 10mm). I just bought the Dillon dies/parts to get started using his 550. Would anybody be willing to share their receipes for a major power factor 10mm? I'll be shooting in Limited 10. This is for a Witness Elite Stock & Elite Match. From what I've read elsewhere, looks like people prefer Federal (150 or 155) or CCI 350 primers. I have a bunch of once-shot Winchester brass to start with, and some PMC and Remmington (nickel). My friend primarily uses Winchester 231 (he's a revolver guy), though I'll use whatever powder makes the most sense. So, I need input on loads & primers so I can go out and buy the primers and powder that I'll need to get started. Any input greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the heads up on the mag pouches - yes indeed I'll need 4 minimum. Most of the local guys had four or more at the match. Since it seems to be an option on all the accessories, could somebody explain the advantage of TekLok and wheter it's a good idea to go that route?

Thanks, guys. CR Speed - Hi-Torque Belt Blade-Tech DOH Dropped & Offset Holster And I'll probably just get one two-mag Blade-Tech mag holder. Think that'll cover it? Is there a preferred/cheap place to buy these? Thanks again.

Hey Guys, I'm new to this sport. In fact, I haven't shot my first match yet. I have, however, went and watched a few and talked to the local contact about rules & things to do to get started. So, first order of business is to get a Holster, Belt and Mag holders for my Witness. Both of them are the newer full-sized frame. A Witness Elite Match and Elite Stock. I've decided to shoot in Limited 10. My two Witnesses have some modifications and are SAO. Anyways, if you know of a good Witness holster, etc, anything input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Yep, makes sense. What doesn't is the cost. If a simple spacer works well, then we're looking at a trivial expense. And the ability to "tune" it to your needs. I'll certainly report back with details as I pursue this.

I'm new to modifying guns (and this board), but not coil springs. I read through some of the FAQ threads on springs. I haven't seen anybody report about running two different weight spring in series. Maybe I just didn't search good enough. Anyways, has anybody done this? In my non-gun world (racing cars), you often use a "main" spring (high rate) and a "tender" spring in series, seated with a little spacer between the two to mate them together (end to end). Here's the math: M = main spring rate T = tender spring rate Initial rate = (M*T) / (M+T) Example: M = 12 T = 6 (6*12) / (6+12) = 4 Summary: The initial rate of two springs in series is less than the rate of the lightest one. There is, however an inflection point (bump in rate) to the higher rate spring (in this case 12) after the lower rate spring is fully compressed. The lower rate spring is typically a flat-wire spring, optimized for coil bind. I noticed that in my CZ SP-01 the stock spring is a flat-wire type. The Wolff springs I've purchased are standard wire. Either way, it makes sense to me that it would be preferable to deal with the inflection point in two-spring setup than to rely on a buffer (e.g. "bump stop"). The buffer is really nothing more that a second spring, but of a much greater rate. If you could set up the gun with two springs in series where the main spring almost (but never does) coil bind, the felt recoil should be minimized. I don't, however, know if this is possible. And yes, I'm sure this is what the fancy spring systems are probably doing. Bottom line, though, I think I'll machine up some spacers/seats and start experimenting.