K-Tex
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Posts posted by K-Tex
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I use 3n37 for standard and +p ammo, but 3n38 is supposed too be good?
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On 1/5/2021 at 9:43 PM, TheHooter said:
I just did a powder inventory, so far I’ve got: titegroup, Longshot, HS6, Power Pistol, PB, WAC & bullseye.
Full disclosure I got this 1050 used with a TON of powder, primers, etc...my only experience is loading 40s&w for major PF for a 2011, and 9mm for a Glock 19.
If there’s a powder y’all recommend I’m all ears. Also, magnum LPP? Any difference other than hardness?I use a lot of longshot, hs6 and power pistol for 10mm. Al have been good choices in g20, g40 and xdm (5.25"). Blue dot and #9 has worked well also. Side note: I don't shoot in comps. The bullet load ranges from 135 to 165 and very few 180s.
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27 minutes ago, Drillbit said:
I have tried the factory barrel and everything works good..... But it's throat has been lengthened.
So I guess it looks like I should look into a longer lead.
I was referring too how far the slide moves back before the barrel starts to drop. A short throat on a pistol seems like something went wrong (Apex barrel)? As the other member stated you need too shorten the coal for it too chamber fully. No telling how much you will need too reduce powder charge?
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On 11/7/2021 at 8:13 PM, BJB said:
No, don't do that. The chamber dimension is not the problem.
It's the short leade (short throat) that is the problem.
In a short leade the lands of the rifling start more abruptly than you would encounter normally. The ogive of the projectile is actually engaging the lands as the round is chambering. You have to decrease your OAL or ream the throat (not the chamber) to get those lands slightly further away from the chamber.
Exactly!
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On 11/7/2021 at 2:15 PM, Drillbit said:
I got a pic of how far the slid moves before unlocking. It starts lo unlock immediately after this point.... Very interesting.
I have also found the chamber to be very tight. New ammo drops right in, not much with reloads.
This is a bit disappointing, I can't afford to shoot new ammo.
I've never had any reload issues dropping in/plunking. Have you tried doing the same with the factory barrel for comparison? The 1 (apex) barrel I have stays locked longer, but I can't say for sure that distance equates to time?
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20 minutes ago, NETim said:
I tossed in Apex barrels mostly to comply with CO rules which forbid ported barrels. I know my M&P's are very accurate shooters.
I wish I was.
1 hour ago, mpom said:Apex claims their research, conducted years ago before there was a 2.0 series, showed that the relatively early dropping of the M&P barrel breech and slow rifling twist rate led to the poor accuracy people complained about. Their barrels have a longer bottom shelf that keeps breech level longer before dropping during slide movement to rear.
As far as accuracy, 2.25" at 20 yards is not bad for a factory barrel, in my limited experience, which includes M&Ps and Glocks. I would not have bought an Apex barrel if my 1.0 5" achieved that. Would not be surprised if you could do better w either high end ammo such as Gold Dot or hand loads tuned to the Apex barrel.
Mark
I didn't notice anything on how the lock time was longer, only how apex said too check length of lock. Glad for the posting of that info!
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7 hours ago, Drillbit said:
I did not notice a longer lock time. I'm not sure how you could.
If you install the factory barrel and slowly push back on the slide then note the distance it moves before the barrel starts too move. With the apex installed the slide moved further rearward before the barrel moved. Shooting there is no way for me too actually feel/know the difference. That is my reference to actually seeing longer lock time. When I have time I'll do some measuring, but will not be able too post pics as for I try to reduce size/pixels for small MB file.
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6 hours ago, Drillbit said:
Well, I just installed an M1 Apex Grade "Semi Drop In Barrel" and at this point, I'm not seeing any or no improvement.
I purchased the jig for the fitting process, and the outcome was as described in their video.
I shot 10 rds of my hand loads of 115gr fmj bullets from Extreme in the stock barrel, and 15 rounds of factory Federal 115 fmj aluminum case. I shot the same rounds in the Apex barrel with no real improvement.
Now I'm wondering if the 1in10 twist rate my like a heavier bullet.
Ideas?
Let me know, because I have 1 like it. I haven't shot any thing heavier than 124gr or in rested when testing for accuracy. I'll try too post for inquiring minds when I have some time? It does stay locked longer than the factory barrel.
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I use my children! Why hasn't anyone come up with that!
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I have a 10mm and a 40s&w and both are XDM 5.25" that neither have required a lighter spring. I'll check slide weight, but both feel the same weight unloaded.
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I like sierra 165v-crown, 150sm and/or speer 155fmj for 40.
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If you are using 2 dies (1 for seating and 1 for crimping) then as long as case length is the same it will crimp alike. Bullet weight and/or style will not change your coal.
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I guess most on here do comp shooting? Just wondering as for bullet weight choice when meeting power factors? I might need too start another thread, so not too pi$$ off mods/admins? Are these loads in this thread for fmj/cast or do some use hp?
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4 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:
I don't know much about the subject matter of this thread, but I do know that if the attitudes being posted in it don't change, it will get locked.
Posting Guidelines
Attitude
Please be polite. Or if not polite, at least respectful.
No bickering. Regardless of the subject matter.
Antagonistic, offensive, or quarrelsome tones are not acceptable.
No trolling. No alternate accounts.
Are you being specific to me? If in regards to me, but not limited to me I'm not posting attitude. If basing it off of punctuation marks it could be read both ways? PM me for further instruction.
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1 hour ago, kurtm said:
Ahhh..... You have "assembled" over 50 AR type rifles from parts others built, got it.
Extensions are sold separately so someone can take a barrel blank from a blank supplier, turn it to what ever profile they wish, do all the work to thread, chamber, drill gas port etc. and then either assemble their own upper, or sell the completed barrel assembly to someone like you who then assembles an upper. That's why extension are sold separately.
I've never bought a barrel and extension separate. I let the other people assemble that part(s). How they correct headspace was never addressed. Still unsolved? For a custom barrel (AR) it's purchased complete with turned gas block journal. Buying a BA barrel and turning it into/converting AR use. ......no thanks. Someone else maybe?
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It also doesn't address how headspace is done only which stage of process.
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On 12/23/2018 at 11:17 PM, Swanny10 said:
Appreciate the help Nate. Am I doing a disservice to a barrel like that by putting it in front of an aero precision receiver set?
AP 6.5cm barrels have been excellent! Standard rifle length gas system has worked perfect from the get go! I bought a dpms panther 16" for a donor at 450 bucks. Removed the barrel and put an 18" AP 6.5cm barrel on it. Without an adjustable gb it cycled perfect! I have their 18, 20 and 22" barrels in that cal.
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HNT26 mdt 26oz
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It's not 100% definitive!
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1 hour ago, kurtm said:
Extensions are not "pinned" to the barrel!
From my post above, one of us is obviously machining barrel blanks, threading, chambering, setting head space, torquing on barrel extensions and drilling gas ports. I'm not at all confused as to what happens, what steps to do in what order, nor how it is all assembled or correctly head spaced to a bolt, but you have me at a disadvantage! Why would you ever re-drill the extension pin hole when it is installed in the exact place it needs to be from the extension manufacturer? I am also sure that you have missed two steps in your headspace example if indeed you messed up your measurement while machining the threads and cutting the chamber in the first place. Can you tell me why you do it the way you do it in your shop?
You got me? Extensions are sold individually with a hole and maybe a pin, but headspacing one or how it is exactly done? I don't know 100%. Some reason extensions are sold without a barrel. I buy it complete and ready too drop in. I've built over 50 ARs (15s and 10s) and have headspace issues with only 2. Being I had several extra bolts and carriers I solved headspace issue. I have go and no-go gauges for every cartridge I shoot. I don't chance anything I shoot and rely on manufacturers too do their job. Like your statement about extensions are not pinned on the barrel. Good thing they aren't! Getting them off would be terrible! I've never taken 1 apart, so I had no knowledge of if yes or not. I'll try my google fu for an answer or video on process.
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Maybe they or could shim between the shoulder and extension, but when an extension only is sold with pin hole drilled then what? How will you headspace and align gas port on a barrel without drilling a new pin hole in the extension?
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If a gas port is drilled latter (could be) then burrs would need to be removed from the rifling. Maybe the headspace (like you're saying) extension torque then pinned, gas port drilled. Somehow/way the breach will need too be shaved too get proper headspace (torque extension, check headspace, incorrect headspace, remove extension, shave off .oo2" from barrel, torque extension, check headspace, drill and pin extension, drill port, clean barrel, add to inventory)? Maybe? I have never inquired about procedure. You might be 100% correct!
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4 hours ago, kurtm said:
So K-Tex, are you saying you can change the head space on an AR with a barrel nut shim? That is what you just said above, you need to revisit how it all goes together if you think this.
The extension is screwed on to the barrel, the barrel is headspace to the extension and torqued to around 135-150 ft/lbs, no nut involved! The extension comes with the pin hole already drilled it IS NOT drilled latter. The extension is the part that fits into the upper receiver, not the barrel, so it really goes like this.... receiver, extension, barrel (already screwed on to extension and headspace), shims....if needed (almost never by the way), and then barrel nut. Here is a picture of an extension waiting for a barrel to be threaded, chambered, headspaced, and screwed on.
No, that's not what I'm saying. Headspace is changed/set by how far the extension is screwed on. The extension is like a receiver on a bolt gun. Instal a headspace gauge into the barrel, screw the barrel into the extension, place a bolt into the extension, then adjust the barrel until headspace is met. Barrel shims is for barrel nut timing as on a Delta ring for gas tube can pass threw. You might with a different type of shim(s) be able to headspace a bolt? Not sure on that? When you go too , let's say (x caliber or McGowan) there a place for checking JPbolt for headspacing. They will send barrel and bolt used (they used) for proper headspace. Midway USA sells barrel and bolt together from Shilin as some other companies.
Ramshot comp
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Comp is a great powder for several cartridges I reload.