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gnappi

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Posts posted by gnappi

  1. I know this is an older thread, but my osteopath got me in traction and it saved me from surgery.

     

    You can't stop, cheat on the daily time, mess with the recommended weight in the bag, follow the Dr. directions, and above all learn to completely relax. The relaxation part  was the biggest and most difficult thing to do. It took a few weeks but once I found out I was not REALLY relaxing my upper body, I made progress getting the herniated disk back to normal and not needing the traction, or surgery.  

     

    This was nearly 30 years ago and I haven't had a relapse. For anyone going through this, give traction a try.

  2. I had it years back, took a LONG time to go away.

     

    Fortunately I'm a lefty (right eye dominant), but always shot right handed and took this time to move 100% of my shooting to the left arm. I got a few lefty holsters, an extra long slide stop (no way to sling shot it, my right hand couldn't do it) and I did a good job getting my "weak hand" up to snuff to nearly equal my right hand side which is actually my weak side.  Screwy huh? 🙂

     

     

     

     

  3. On 4/12/2022 at 9:30 PM, Cowguy said:

    Neither of those are encouraging 

    Series 80 bits can be  removed, I personally don't unless I put an 80 slide on a 70 frame. The extractor issues seem to have been worked out. Long term it may be an issue if you, like me don't trade guns like you change socks. 

     

    I had a Peters Stahl Omega which broke extractors... I got a couple of the last few spares in the U.S. before they became unobtanium and I traded it away to a machinist who was able to make all the spares he needed.  

     

    So if Sig completely bails out of the 1911 market, will EGW make them forever? Dunno. I won't buy a S&W either... remember I don't trade guns like I change socks 🙂 

  4. Being literally raised in a machine shop, dimples are the QC dept way of assuring it passes the Brinell test for hardness. Two dimples usually means the manufacturer AND the client who ordered the part (or subbed it out) tested it. Now if there were three (I really doubt it on a commercial part) dimples, I'd suspect the third was military, four? Not a way I can see logical. A "system" of two levels (or more) of "quality" makes no sense. They either pass or not. 

     

     

     

     

  5. Wowser! Still, I wouldn't call the  9x25 unremarkable.   It's a formidable cartridge for just about any purpose I can dream up. Someday I'd like to shoot a pin match with it. But pin matches disappeared too, I guess because they couldn't find pins small enough for the 9 to take off the table cleanly. 

  6. AFAIK there is no dot "system", what I "think" you may  be  referring to may be hardness testing punches? 

     

    There was a Star and or a dot system on shotgun barrels to indicate the choke / constriction, but I know of none on any other firearms. 

  7. I powder coat my cast bullets but haven't chronographed them vs. jacketed, I'll say  this, the bores stay clean and there's no smoke on the range I used to get from wax lubes. I completely stopped using jacketed bullets . 

     

    In my comped guns there's no issues at all using it.

     

    One thing for sure, they REALLY need a decent mouth bell to keep from shearing the side of the  bullet if it's tumble coated and sized. If not my 450 will get little moon shaped slivers in and around the shell plate gunking it up. Tumble coating (shake and bake) and sizing may leave a little extruded rim on the base of the bullet which a poorly prepped case mouth will cut off and drop onto your press. 

     

     

     

     

     

     

  8. On 4/10/2022 at 7:34 AM, Service Desk said:

    I shot one built on a Para frame…..it burned out comps when I used Win 296 and caused me more wrist problems than it was worth. 
    The current threshold for major calibre has largely made the cartridge unremarkable. The blast from the 296 load I used would make me a pariah when I needed an RO…. It has no advantage over 38 Super….

    sounds like a short barrelled 308 Win and used to destroy metal targets when I used 115gr projectiles. Hell, lead 125 grain bullets used to pockmark poppers and plates to the point that I was  warned off shooting it.

     

    Were the comps steel or aluminum? 

  9. On 3/28/2022 at 7:51 AM, kneelingatlas said:

    I agree Jim Jones is your guy, with a 9mm slide and 38 chamber you'll need to shoot 38SC only, regular 38 super with jam on the breech face.

     

    Another idea..  I have a LOT of super brass, and a mini lathe is inexpensive enough (about the price of 2k SC brass if it were available)  I could easily turn the rims down the .020" or so easily.  Food for thought 🙂 

  10. On 3/28/2022 at 9:20 AM, jim vaughan said:

    Or do it properly and ream the chamber to 9x23. The base width of a 9mm at the start of the extractor groove is more than that on a 38SC.

    Therefore you would have expanded cases if using 38SC in a 9mm barrel reamed to 38SC. The SAAMI dimensions are 0.3913 vs 0.3887"

     

    I would except I'm heavily invested in other super pistols, as well super brass and with brass scarce I'm better off staying the course with super.

  11. I'm  loading a long, L-O-N-G time, I have a couple of little bits I genned up to make it a tad easier.

     

    The coffee container is useful as a small batch "tumbler" of sorts when I don't want to take the big Dillon rotary case separator down. All I needed was a stainless dog bowl from the thrift store, a 1/4" drill bit, and a dremel sanding drum to deburr it. 

     

    The Star lubrisizer plate I drew up and had a local machinist make it for me. One for 9mm/super, one for .40/10mm, one for .45 calibers. With powder coating I no longer needed left side access screw to purge wax lube and the three sizers take less space.

     

    The Acro bins are mounted to a cheap "L" bracket bought at the local Lowes or Home Depot for about $4.00 instead of nearly $50 for the Acro part.

     

    Easy access shell holder storage from smallest to largest. 

     

    I used to make my speed loader holders from an oak plank before I discovered 5 star holders. Not cheap but they work 🙂 

     

    I'd like to see your ideas.

    coffee_can_strainer.jpg

    star_sizer_plate_r.jpg

    shell_holder_storage_r.jpg

    5-star-holders.jpg

    wood_speedloader_holder_r.jpg

  12. 16 hours ago, P Taylor said:

    The 357sig barrel is the most accurate set up I have for a M&P.  

     

    I would put more time into the round if there was more industry support behind it. 

     

    I have a 40 to 9 Apex barrel shoots well , have considered cutting it for a 357sig chamber.

     

    It's  a shame too... even Sig bailed out on the cartridge. It may be a bit of a PITA to get it sorted out on what bullets it likes and paying a bit more attention to load than a 9, 40 or .45 but once it's all sussed out the results are well worth it.

  13. On 3/19/2022 at 12:27 PM, P Taylor said:

    I have KKM barrels in .40 and 357sig , do not know how they compare to other brands but they did improve accuracy over the stock barrel 40 barrel.

     

    Agreed, the KKM .357 Sig barrel I bought (5.5" threaded) is tack accurate in my .40 caliber 2.0. I have not done anything to the trigger so I suspect KKM is a better frame / slide fit?

  14. Whitefish, I don't find reloading it a chore at all

     

    I usually prep a bunch of brass and load when needed.

     

    Case forming

     

    Lee carbide under size FL 10mm size die

    RCBS .357 Sig neck size to push the  shoulder back (The Dillon size die is hard on my right arm)

     

    Reloading after fire forming

     

    Lee under size FL 10mm size die

    Dillon neck size

    Dillon powder measure to expand the neck

    Dillon die seat

    Dillon die crimp

     

    I tried seat/crimp dies but they don't work well with powder coated bullets.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  15. Thanks all for the heads up on the frame. This one was built reinforced with a welded plate on the side before chrome plating it. Overall a nice job but your  points are well taken.  

     

    I have been shooting coated bullets exclusively for a few years in a few 10mm's as well as compensated guns... a S&W M&P in .357 Sig, a Tanfo in Super, and a Springfield Factory comp in .40 without issues.

     

    The 8 mags in this one are Para, so maybe I'd be GTG.

     

     

     

     

  16. I looked at this a while ago and on a sample of one, welding the rounded area of the frame is not the only issue. A Wilson / Nowlin ramp will sit too far forward in the frame. You may need to have the frame milled to move the square face of the W/N ramp rearward. Then it actually may not be necessary to fill the rounded area at all?

     

    I wonder if this would make a "universal" ramp frame? 🙂

  17. First off, it's not about whether the  9x25 is obsolete, impractical,  unused, or other argument against the caliber. One way or another I'll have an open 9x25 it's just the tack I take getting there. I have an RIA hi cap frame frame and R1 long slide build as well as a 4.25" slide on a single stack DW frame.

     

    I started loading the 9x25 about a year ago in large part because I have well over 20k large pistol primers (with a lot more available) to "dispose" of and very few SPP's, an unlimited supply 140 and 150 grain 9mm home cast / powder coated bullets, and two 5 gallon buckets of 10mm brass with half of that already formed / fire formed to 9x25. I cast 9mm bullets for my .38 super and .357 Sigs and do not load 9mm's.

     

    I find the 9x25 is a hoot to shoot and I was thinking about building an open gun in 9x25. Recently I stumbled on an open Para / Caspian build with a C-more, 8 mags, dies and lots of loaded ammo and brass. While I don't need the ammo, brass or dies the seller won't separate the package 😞

     

    So, I'm thinking a ground up or custom build would be a lot more expensive than the <$2k the seller is asking for his package.

     

    Thoughts?

     

     

     

  18. I have a 5" M&P in .40 and I got a 5.45" carver threaded KKM .357 Sig barrel for it. 

     

    I installed a steel "tanker" style comp, and debris coming from the sides makes it unusable indoors but the barrel is accurate, and I did not have to tweak my loads to get it to function.  Recoil is minimal but whether the reduced recoil is by virtue of the ports or just the added weight, I can't say but whichever it is, muzzle rise is not much compared  to shooting it without the comp.

     

     

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