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gnappi

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Everything posted by gnappi

  1. I can tell you that the WC branded ( 8 sided center hole) work after just trimning the fingers but the S&W branded ones with the round center hole (TK Brand stamped) needed 3x the metal taken off the fingers AND the cases ( all headstamps) can not be pushed on by hand.
  2. As I said the -4 works the -5 will not.
  3. I stopped shooting my .40 and .38 super automatics at the range because picking up my not disposable brass among the piles of scrap 9's was a pain, and I wasn't fond of getting pelted by hot brass from the "I need to empty my gun as fast as I can" crowd So I switched all of my shooting to revolvers but what to do with all of my loaded super and .40 ammo? Dust off my 610 and 327 / 627's. The 610 and .40 was no issue but the moon clips and cylinders on the 327/627 were a problem . First I found that even though my ammo all fit my ammo checker and my supers from Tanfo and 1911's none would drop in either of the S&W's and all needed to be re taper crimped to drop in the 327. Next, the five WC clip "fingers" were a bit too long (~8 thou) but it was not a very big issue with a Dremel to get them fitting into depression on the rear of my 327 cylinder. Since I couldn't find any more WC clips, I ordered three TK clips and the fingers needed twenty thou taken off each to fit the cylinder, and inserting brass into them is only possible with the vise grip. That 20 thou grinds off slowly Problems solved on the 327. The cylinders still need a bit of a reaming because the ammo needs a lot of wiggling to get seated. I'll never be able use it as any more than a range toy or pins as it is now. My 627-5 will not allow a single .38 super to drop in even without a moon clip that will easily in the 327. On a S&W site I was told that the 627-4 was billed as .357/.38 spec/.38 super but the 627-5 was sold as a .357 / .38 special only revolver. So, I want to send both cylinders in to have them reamed and I hope someone here who has had their 327/627 cylinders reamed and can advise me of a gunsmith who can do mine, hopefully by shipping the cylinders only?
  4. The two local pin matches I went to were basically the same... 5 pins one foot from rear, 15 yards, any caliber / capacity the first shooter to clear the table won. My S&W 625 .45 and 610 10mm both did well (as did my 10mm 1911) and ColoradoNick is right if you didn't clear the table in under 3.5 seconds or so, you lost
  5. To me short stroking is a matter of trigger control. I don't have big mitts but once I got it down I never short stroked again. See: With an empty gun try just cycling without the hammer falling to get trigger control down. I think you'll see that even with smaller framed S&W's you'll short stroke them too.
  6. I was lucky to get an X5 in .40. I don't use the 9mm anymore, my son does.
  7. After I got mine and it went back to Beretta TWICE. The slide would not come off. The second trip worked. They trimmed the frame inside where the bbl ramp was rubbing. I ditched the 9mm slide and had a .40 caliber DAO Brigadier slide milled for the left side safety paddle and had a .357 Sig barrel made for it and had a stainless .40 barrel in my parts box. The 9mm slide has not been on it since then.
  8. Don't overthink crimping. Make sure the shortest case you have gets a good crimp, and you're done. In the couple of years I've been powder coating using a taper crimp I have yet to have bullet setback into the case after hitting the feed ramp. Oh, I size my bullets after coating, and all fit my case gauge unless I run into a "glocked" sample and the small base sizer didn't iron it out fully. IMO a more important issue is belling the mouth with PC'd bullets. Again you want the shorter cases belled enough to not cookie cut the powder coating off the bullet leaving exposed lead on the bullet base.
  9. Grind off the rail, refinish, and get plastic CZ (if they fit) grips!
  10. I rarely buy or do not but for a cosmetic reason but THAT "billboard" is just over the top unnecessary and I'd not buy one on that alone. Egads, that's worse than those metal dealer ad plates they stick on the back of a new car
  11. gnappi

    Para P16 follower

    I have one P16 mag that the plastic follower won't latch the slide on the last round. Are there any substitute / replacement followers available? Grams Engineering is out of stock.
  12. New factory guns are mostly unobtanium or at best getting scarce in .40. If you can find one, a Springfield Ronin 10mm is an easy conversion to .40. Rem R1's are still available, then RIA is also bucking the 9mm trend and still making .40's and supers. I much prefer the .40 over most anything else.
  13. Yeah, the Limited pro I don't have a TS2 to compare it to. I tried writing Ghost again, this time with a pic of my comped Tanf.
  14. I'm looking for a holster. Not leather / carry gear obviously, maybe something in Kydex with an open front for steel fast draw type training / shooting. Anyone have sources? I wrote Ghost and am waiting for an answer.
  15. THE answer is own several large frame Tanfos and uppers WILL fit at least one of them I have several spare slides most fit the other frames. Those that do not, do not get a conversion :-)
  16. Back in the day If I'd been in a squad which shot last, I got all my brass and more. Most wanted to get out of the heat (south Florida) and get their scores / placement. Back then though a lot of us shot super and sorting through 9's wasn't much of an issue. Today I leave it on the ground, CBC made that possible.
  17. I'm getting dense, I forgot to mention that after the .40 cases are fire formed it's important to recheck the crimp.
  18. It's only a bad idea if you don't take the time to sort out the issues re-formed .40 brass present. When I got my Sigs in .357 Sig there was zero ammo around so I had to use re-formed .40 brass. The "gotcha" there is once formed the neck is shorter than a native .357 Sig case and a lot of bullets do not get a decent crimp and on feed the bullets may set back into the case. Long nose 115 grain 9mm bullets are the worst, shorter nosed heavier bullets with a longer side work best. I cast and powder coat my own 139 and 149 grain bullets and they work fine. Like many, I always size all sig brass first in a Lee .40 die, then the Sig sizing die.
  19. Since starline has been out of super brass so long I've been loading CBC exclusively and no problems at all on my 550's
  20. My stores of super were getting thin and I got tired of waiting for ANY super brass to show up at Starline and I wound up finding other sources for super +p brass. I'm running mostly single stack so not having 38 super comp isn't a biggie.
  21. Well, I don't anyone got the Speer angle but a LGS here is dusting off their old brass sorting machines to capitalize on brass scarcity, if they get a large number of 40's I'll PM you.
  22. Keep checking once fired brass. https://www.oncefiredbrass.com
  23. New? Range brass? Once fired? I get nickle because it cleans up so easily but why that particular head stamp?
  24. AA9 has always been my goto powder for 10mm in 180 to 200 grain bullets in my long slide 10's. The long slide burns up more powder than my compact witness and 5" Delta.
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