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lroy

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Posts posted by lroy

  1. I was using two separate loads for CO and PCC then got lazy and tried 147s in the jp5. It barely makes a sound and the dot wiggles slightly so I've stuck with it.

     

    Maybe I'm just not good enough to take advantage of a snappy 100gr load. I can still split 12-13s with 147s and it feels like a 22 so that's good enough for me. 

  2. 41 minutes ago, shred said:

    There's a pic rail cut into where you normally tap for the scope mount.  You could weld that up or silver solder a plate over it or something if you wanted, but it adds work.

     


    My pic rail is tapped. Doesn’t seem to be an issue

  3. I've seen a good bit of them, maybe once per match. They do help to change things up, I think.

     

    The main thing I've learned since designing stages is that people will complain no matter what you do. Lol

  4. Well s#!t. It looks like it is a mag issue. They run fine with oem glock mags. The TTI pads cause the issue throughout. I sanded the connection point and followers and load to 1.12. 
     

    im not sure why round nose dont have this issue. I guess i could try the TF extensions?

     

  5. 2 minutes ago, Keyst0ne said:

    No issues with any I've used including PD. Try moving to a higher locking piece. What are you using now?


    im using a 70. My ejection is great, so i dont think that is the issue. It even happens when releasing the bolt to load.

  6. 4 minutes ago, GrumpyNO said:

    Haven't tried, but have you tried different COAL? Longer or shorter?


    Ive tried as short as 1.0 and long as 1.125. Im using the same oal as my BMB coated bullets that feed great. Its seems like the flat bit of the JHP is getting snagged or something? My coated projectiles have a round, pointy nose.

  7. I've been thinking about some tuning methods for the rdb. I really doubt any of it matters in the end, but it's been fun to theorize.

     

    The way the system operates, the locking peice dictates how much initial force is required to drive the bolt assembly backward. The buffer spring/weight can add to this, but has the drawback of also causing additional force be created when it pushes forward back into battery.

     

    For example, a 70 degree lock with a heavy buffer spring would produce more felt recoil than a 60 degree with a very light buffer spring?

     

    Is that correct? I know max tested all of these and preferred the former, I was just curious on why that would be the case.

     

     

  8. On 2/7/2024 at 4:04 PM, Tampa-XD45 said:

    FYI - I run the Redi-Catch on my JP GMR-15 even though I was told that it wouldn't fit.  I don't have a JP-5.

    I've attached a pic so you can see the spacing.

     

     

    20240207_155550.jpg

     

    That's a bad lever, not a redi catch. I'm surprised that fits though. The clearance on the bolt release is very tight.

    22 minutes ago, Blackstone45 said:

    Can anyone explain how to remove the ejector from the JP-5? It's probably very simple but I don't want to do anything to try and figure it out for myself (and potentially mess up) before asking

     

    It's help in place by a little E-Clip. It should just pop off with a bit of a tug.
     

    (The round part in this listing)

    https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JP5-MK

  9. On 11/10/2023 at 6:46 PM, Crazen14 said:

     

     

     

    I can assure you that no parts are ever skipped in prep or skimped out on. Every trigger, hammer and disconnecter has a prep process and trigger feel can vary from builder to builder. As for the short rear screw, that’s installed as a plug screw not a fake screw. That rear hole is for “pro” installs which is something you can do yourself if you get the kit but won’t be built unless specified due to very light triggers (2lbs) and safety. Hope that helps.


    What? Theres nothing on the JP site that mentions a pro package kit to drop trigger weight.

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